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Help! More Camber Needed!

Started by clipping_point , Oct 21 2003 07:54 AM

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#1 clipping_point

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Posted 21 October 2003 - 07:54 AM

I need to remove the last shim, which serve as a holder for the ABS sensor wiring connector. Since the bolts are recessed I can not place a holder under the bolt head. And if I clamp the wiring to the suspension upper arm, there will be movement between the sensor and the connector. The reason for my troubles is that if I remove all shims I get 0,7° on the left side and 1,3° on the right side. I don´t whant to place a shim on the right side giving approx. 0,7/0,7 L/R, instead I want the more extreme 1,3/1,3 L/R. Anyone? :unsure:

#2 Steve Crisp

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 11:24 AM

As a casual thought, how about adding shims to the lower arm instead of removing the shims from the upper one. Is that a dumb idea? It'll increase the track by a few mm at the same time!!



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#3 Ricky2772

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 11:35 AM

I need to remove the last shim, which serve as a holder for the ABS sensor wiring connector. Since the bolts are recessed I can not place a holder under the bolt head. And if I clamp the wiring to the suspension upper arm, there will be movement between the sensor and the connector.

The reason for my troubles is that if I remove all shims I get 0,7° on the left side and 1,3° on the right side. I don´t whant to place a shim on the right side giving approx. 0,7/0,7 L/R, instead I want the more extreme 1,3/1,3 L/R. Anyone? :unsure:

interesting...0,7 and 1,3 with all shims removed...did you come up with such measurments WITH yourself on board?

afaik the only solution is to remove the hub and grind away an extra 1mm thickness.... or more! :P
...lizzie owners do that customarily...


about the ABS sensor, I've been thinkering about it for quite some time, but still unresolved how the secure it safely... :unsure:

steve, about adding below, its impossible I think, only a joint ball IIRC

#4 clipping_point

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 12:40 PM

No, I was not on board (?!) The measurement were made at a tyre shop and should be accurate, since it is a computerised system, but who knows :unsure: ? ..and, yes, there are no shims at the lower arm. One idea I have is to place washers under the bolt head to get into level with hub back face. Then I can place the holder under it, but maybe the bult will hit the the upper arm at bumps or in turns :blink: Machining the hub may be the only way......

#5 Ricky2772

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 02:51 PM

No, I was not on board (?!) The measurement were made at a tyre shop and should be accurate, since it is a computerised system, but who knows :unsure: ?

in order to get a realistic and effective reading, exp. for sportscars, the driver should always be on board, with a pax along (if the racing is done with a pax)
values can (and will) swing around quite a lot with an extra 80kg on one seat...

#6 clipping_point

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 03:00 PM

Pax? Passanger? And 80 kg is too little in my case, no love handles though :D :D Maybe that could save the situation, since that will automatically give more camber on the driver (left) side :jump:

#7 Ricky2772

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 03:08 PM

Pax? Passanger? And 80 kg is too little in my case, no love handles though :D  :D

Maybe that could save the situation, since that will automatically give more camber on the driver (left) side :jump:

above 80 kg?!? heck YEAH it will make a difference!!! :o :P
...you must be one of those huge, blond vikings, huh?!? :lol: :lol:
deffo you'l prolly get a totally diff. set of values...

Edited by Ricky2772, 22 October 2003 - 03:09 PM.

#8 cheeky_chops

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Posted 22 October 2003 - 03:53 PM

a piccy or 2 would be nice so i can imagine a bit better what you are talking about :)

#9 clipping_point

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Posted 23 October 2003 - 07:47 AM

Can place a piccy here later. Grinding away an extra mm seem a good idea, in order to reach more negative camber, as well as a flexibility for adjustments around the -1,5° mark. Maybe a something to in the winter...... and make room for 205 tyres in front...... and replace the front pads with Pagid ones... B)

#10 clipping_point

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Posted 23 October 2003 - 09:33 PM

OK, here cheeky, a picture! As can be seen, between the two flat surfaces shims are placed to alter the camber. The ABS wiring is at the left. I think I will machine the arm thingy, not the hub surface. Is this how the lizzie people do it, Ricky?

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#11 Ricky2772

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 08:17 AM

I think I will machine the arm thingy, not the hub surface. Is this how the lizzie people do it, Ricky?

machine the one that has some thread-less thickness to spare...

#12 cheeky_chops

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 08:30 AM

ahh, nice piccy Imnotworthy So, correct me if i am wrong :rolleyes: a shim is a flat 1-2mm thick piece of metal with a hole at either end. This then goes accross the gap pushing the top of the suspension arm out??? less shims mean the wheels are like this /-\ ...... or more shims I-I Your problem is the abs wire is held in place by what is effectively a shim....?? Sensible place to put it!! :beat:

Edited by cheeky_chops, 24 October 2003 - 08:32 AM.

#13 clipping_point

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 08:38 AM

a shim is a flat 1-2mm thick piece of metal with a hole at either end. This then goes accross the gap pushing the top of the suspension arm out??? less shims mean the wheels are like this /-\ ...... or more shims I-I

Your problem is the abs wire is held in place by what is effectively a shim....??

Yeah! Correct, cheeky! Also, you can see my progressive Eibach spring in the picture. I think the shims are ca 0,5 mm thick, each giving approx 0,5° reduction of camber (more negative).

But I will do what Ricky suggests, machine the arm surface a mm or 2.

#14 Ricky2772

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 08:58 AM

. I think the shims are ca 0,5 mm thick, each giving approx 0,5° reduction of camber (more negative).

to be anal, :P 1mm thick. ;)

#15 clipping_point

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 09:12 AM

OK, sorry, I have not measured the shims yet :rolleyes:

#16 VEX

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 09:39 AM

Could you not engineer a different bracket for the ABS module and mount it the other side of the arm, by the bolt head? OK the current bracket may not fit or could intrude on other parts, but if you reworked it to place the actual module back in its orginal place that shoud work.

#17 cheeky_chops

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 10:01 AM

. I think the shims are ca 0,5 mm thick, each giving approx 0,5° reduction of camber (more negative).

to be anal, :P 1mm thick. ;)

:lol: :lol: :lol: B)

#18 Ricky2772

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 10:05 AM

btw, I replaced the 2 bolts holding the hub and shims in place with stonger ones, rated 12.0, instead of the stock 8.0 ones...having experienced the sudden breakdown on one of them while at 120kmh, it was not fun.... :blink: :sick: ....so I decided to upgrade to a stronger alloy... now I feel better when pushing hard... :rolleyes:

#19 clipping_point

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Posted 24 October 2003 - 10:59 AM

btw, I replaced the 2 bolts holding the hub and shims in place with stonger ones, rated 12.0, instead of the stock 8.0 ones...having experienced the sudden breakdown on one of them while at 120kmh, it was not fun.... :blink: :sick:
....so I decided to upgrade to a stronger alloy... now I feel better when pushing hard... :rolleyes:

OOOPS! Important advice! Suppose this is even more imortant if i go for high-gripping Yokos

#20 clipping_point

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Posted 08 March 2004 - 10:18 PM

OK! Now its time grinding the arm surface a mm or 2. Piccys will be here soon :drink: :drink: :groupjump: :groupjump: :groupjump:
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