However, I'm as experienced on track and would like to hear from others on the settings they use for track days and road.
I have a VXT.
Thanks
Nitrons
Started by
amrit
, Apr 21 2005 02:32 PM
14 replies to this topic
#1
amrit
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Posted 21 April 2005 - 02:32 PM
Just had Nitrons fitted and need some advice from others with more experience on the type of setup they go for.
Thorney has already sent me some info on his setup
However, I'm as experienced on track and would like to hear from others on the settings they use for track days and road.
I have a VXT.
Thanks
However, I'm as experienced on track and would like to hear from others on the settings they use for track days and road.
I have a VXT.
Thanks
#2
clipping_point
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Posted 21 April 2005 - 05:37 PM
340R Track Settings
FRONT
Castor +3.8°, ±0.2° (max side/side 0.2° )
Camber -1.8°, +0.1° -0.2°
Toe 0.5mm Toe OUT overall, +0.2mm -0.0
REAR
Camber -2.7°, ±0.2° (max side/side 0.2° )
Toe 2.5mm toe IN, +0.2mm -0mm (max side/side 0.2mm)
Nitrons set up (road)
Front 9 clicks from full stiff
Rear 12 clicks from full stiff
Nitrons set up (track) add 3 clicks all round
#3
amrit
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Posted 23 April 2005 - 07:56 PM
Thanks.
Had first track day with nitrons and must just say that they transform the car..
Amazing. Best money I spent on any modification.
#4
RAB2000
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Posted 23 April 2005 - 08:46 PM
Here's a question, given a standard VXT would you rather have
a - Nitrons OR
b - OZ wheels + Toyo tyres
? I'm not sure at all?
#5
clipping_point
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Posted 23 April 2005 - 08:56 PM
My advice is Yoko tyres AND OZ wheels. The lap times will improve dramatically! 
Next step may be Nitrons.....
Next step may be Nitrons.....
#6
amrit
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Posted 24 April 2005 - 04:14 PM
I would go for nitrons based on my experience but that probably doesn't count for much.
All I say is that pre-nitrons the car didn't feel planted around the corners at Bedford...now with the nitrons it feels great and there's hardly any body roll.
Look at these pictures to see the difference.
Pre-nitrons:
With nitrons around the same corner:
All I say is that pre-nitrons the car didn't feel planted around the corners at Bedford...now with the nitrons it feels great and there's hardly any body roll.
Look at these pictures to see the difference.
Pre-nitrons:
With nitrons around the same corner:
#7
clipping_point
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Posted 24 April 2005 - 05:34 PM
Amazing, and lucky me who have Nitrons...but haven´t been able to test them yet. Hope thursday 28th.
However, if the 2 pictures illustrate the body roll at the same speed around the corner.......... then you havent actually gained anything, with the Nitrons, have you? Less body roll, OK.
However, if the car would be on Yokos you could prolly increase the velocity around the bend with 10-20 %.
#8
amrit
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Posted 24 April 2005 - 06:02 PM
Yes you're probably correct 
But nitrons make the car look better.. 
Probably remap next and then look at tyres, etc.
But nitrons make the car look better..
Probably remap next and then look at tyres, etc.
#9
meldert
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Billy No Mates
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Posted 25 April 2005 - 09:31 AM
Is i just me who doesn't really understand this???Nitrons set up (road)
Front 9 clicks from full stiff
Rear 12 clicks from full stiff
Nitrons set up (track) add 3 clicks all round
Doesn't it mean you run them softer at the back (more clicks from full stiff)???
And you make them even softer on track???
Shouldn't it be the other way around???
What do you mean by "full stiff"???
#10
clipping_point
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Posted 25 April 2005 - 11:40 AM
Its taken from Steve Crisp. I´ll ask him.
However, clearly it cannot be the same shocks at the back. They have twice the load and thus must have different valves etc. This means that it is possible to run a lower setting at back.
And for track use, the correct interpretation would be:
Front 6 clicks from full stiff
Rear 9 clicks from full stiff
..I guess
However, clearly it cannot be the same shocks at the back. They have twice the load and thus must have different valves etc. This means that it is possible to run a lower setting at back.
And for track use, the correct interpretation would be:
Front 6 clicks from full stiff
Rear 9 clicks from full stiff
..I guess
#11
Thorney
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Posted 25 April 2005 - 11:52 AM
The number of clicks is dependant on the driver/circuit/wet/dry but they are the fronts tend to be softer on the front to dial out understeer (chassis is engineered with this). I tend to run mine much harder on the rear (4 clicks from full still) but now I'm on the three way remotes I've got more room for manoever.
#12
meldert
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Billy No Mates
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Posted 25 April 2005 - 12:41 PM
ahh! I guess so too...And for track use, the correct interpretation would be:
Front 6 clicks from full stiff
Rear 9 clicks from full stiff
..I guess
obviously the shocks are different back an front, should have thought of that...
Haven't had enough time to fiddle around with the settings yet have them 10 clicks from full both back and front at the moment...
Thorney: Ofcourse its all dependant on driver/circuit/wet/dry but it's good to have a point to start at...
#13
Thorney
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Fluffy bunny rabbits.
Posted 25 April 2005 - 12:52 PM
The way to set up suspenion is dont do it gradually....make big changes then work back.
If you still have understeer the soften the front massivley (3/4 clicks) then work back (1 click at a time) until it comes back then soften one click back to get the happy medium. Think of it like battleships, 2 shots to get the range, the last one hits the target
#14
clipping_point
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Posted 25 April 2005 - 01:29 PM
Wow, I can´t wait to start fiddling with my Nitrons.
I thought Steves figures were a good starting point, but the values may change...
I thought Steves figures were a good starting point, but the values may change...
#15
barrybethel
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Posted 26 April 2005 - 05:30 PM
Be careful if you plan on taking all of the understeer out on standard tyres - on fast corners the car will feel much more nervous on turn-in. I think you need a bit of a compromise, especially on the road.
Running the rears 3 clicks softer than the fronts WILL give understeer but on the road I quite like it that way for safety.
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