Running Strange After Remap

Hi there
I eventually got my turbo remapped a couple of weeks ago. It was a horrible wet foggy slimy day and I couldn't really test it out. I drove the car today and it seems fast but when I go wide open throttle from lower revs (2500),it seems to flat spot a bit then the engine management light comes on. This happens in 2nd,3rd, 4th and 5th. It is more obvious at low revs in a higher gear. All is well after I switch off and then back on. I will get in touch with the guy that did the remap if need be, but I wondered if there was anything with my car that might be causing it? He remaps all different cars so specific issues with VX220's might not be well known to him. It's not the first one he has done, but the first in about 8 years.
The car is completely standard apart from the map and it was running fine before hand. It has been garaged since October and the battery was flat this morning. I'm not sure if this would have any bearing?
I just wondered if anyone had an idea if this could be relating to something other than the map?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Paul.

Was today your first drive since the remap?

Sounds like you need to fit an AFR gauge so you can keep an eye on things. You don't want it running lean and your mapper sounds a bit suspect. Surely your problems would have been found out on the Dyno whilst he was mapping it.

Edited by fiveoclock, 29 December 2019 - 01:05 AM.

I'm sure Steve k will know, it's a shame he's no longer doing maps himself

I think that if you bring to the car with cash to him on a weekend, he could be pursuaded.

 

then the engine management light comes on
 

 

Can you read the fault code it generates?
If this is anything linked to being to lean, it could damage your engine.

 

Yes, this was my first proper drive since the remap. I did drive it on the day but the roads were terrible and I was unable to have the throttle wide open. As the car is standard, I didn't think it would require a bespoke map and dyno session. I have had several standard cars remapped this way previously and all have ran well.
I am sure that the guy that did it will come back and check things over. As it is over an hour's drive for him to get here, I wondered if there is anything relating to my car (boost control valve, maf sensor, coil pack, spark plugs etc.) that might be the limiting factor, rather than the map. I know that there's a lot of experience on this forum and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Just used an OBD reader and there are no fault codes showing.

I wouldn't remap a car unless its on a dyno as you cant check the fuel air ratio's properly unless you drive around with the thingy up the exhaust.

Take it back and get the mapper to check it before you do some damage. Worse case get your money back and take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Anyone mapping a car without a dyno is not a true mapper why else would mappers spend £100,000 on a dyno if they didn't need it. Each and every car is slightly different and on cars over 15 years old I bet parts dont fire exactly the same as OEM. My maps has been copied on a good few other VX220 and each and everyone still had it tweaked on the rollers. This tells you that a copy and paste job isnt a decent map.

 

I wouldn't remap a car unless its on a dyno as you cant check the fuel air ratio's properly unless you drive around with the thingy up the exhaust.
Take it back and get the mapper to check it before you do some damage. Worse case get your money back and take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

Anyone mapping a car without a dyno is not a true mapper why else would mappers spend £100,000 on a dyno if they didn't need it. Each and every car is slightly different and on cars over 15 years old I bet parts dont fire exactly the same as OEM. My maps has been copied on a good few other VX220 and each and everyone still had it tweaked on the rollers. This tells you that a copy and paste job isnt a decent map.

Whilst your advice is sound, my current map was mapped without a Dyno and is perfect ( mapped for the hardware on the car), the previous map installed by MMG, again without a Dyno ( I asked for the print out and he said no Dyno used,) was poor.

Yes, this was my first proper drive since the remap. I did drive it on the day but the roads were terrible and I was unable to have the throttle wide open. As the car is standard, I didn't think it would require a bespoke map and dyno session. I have had several standard cars remapped this way previously and all have ran well.
I am sure that the guy that did it will come back and check things over. As it is over an hour's drive for him to get here, I wondered if there is anything relating to my car (boost control valve, maf sensor, coil pack, spark plugs etc.) that might be the limiting factor, rather than the map. I know that there's a lot of experience on this forum and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

If it was mapped, and then the battery went flat without the car being driven, I would take the car out for a good few runs before fiddling with anything. The map will still be in the ECU but it may need to be 're-learnt'. I had this on my VXR. The battery was dead and it never felt mapped (had an MMG stg 1.5). On Liam at MMG's advice, I took it out for a good few long runs out at all throttle openings and it soon felt much better again.

One question, your engine runs well before remapping? I think yes, could you talk with the tunner and explain him that you have this problem and wants the stock map to check if the problem is a sensor, for example, or the mapping?

I don't know how much did you paid, but here is one example of good stuff and healthy for your clutch.


https://www.regelin-...}14&language=en

Who mapped it? Definitely worth taking it back

Thanks for the feedback. I have contacted the guy that remapped the car. He has said he will come back out to see what the problem is but has no concerns regarding the map itself. He reckons that it has just aggravated an underlying problem when using more boost. I don't want to name the company just yet as I think that might be unfair until he has been given a chance to identify what is wrong. He suggested a sticking wastegate actuator or something similar might be the cause of the car acting differently under full boost?

Intake pipe collapsing?

cheap fix , try cleaning the boost control solenoid with brake cleaner , try disconnect pipe from top of actuator and squirt down that