Almost Standard Tubby, What Should I Be Getting?

Morning all,

Having spent a fair few quid as well as a fair bit of time on the interior I am very happy where she has got to.

I am now looking ahead to next year and refining what I have engine wise. 

My tubby used to have a milltek on it, it was mapped and dyno'd at 223bhp/260torques, then the milltek went and the previous owner put a Tullet on in its place.

What is the likely outcome of that? Could I go look for another remap that might get me a few more ponies in the stable? 

Everything else is standard mechanically.

Thanks!

Col

I would urge you to go to Courtenay for their stage 1 map. A pretty modest 230BHP but the driveabilty is about the best you'll ever see from a Turbo. 

Thanks, the previous remap was done by Rabbid Remaps which have a good standing in the VXR community by all accounts. 

 

Hi Col,

I still have a 2.5 Miltek at stage 4. Agree with what Mr Seal says above - the mapping makes a big difference and VXR’s are a completely different animal to the RWD VX.

I don’t think it makes a big power difference but you might make 5 lb/ft torque improvement from going 3”.

I can recommend fitting an Apexi induction kit. That’s the best mod ever for under £100 and will give you those induction noises you have been craving 🤗

I give the same advice to anyone with a turbo. Courtney. They really know what they are doing.

Edited by jonnyboy, 03 December 2019 - 06:22 PM.

Thanks again guys. The standard airbox has had holes drilled, so gives off a reasonable sound at the moment :-)

I know your car and your map, your map is decent. The dyno is a strict one so 223bhp wont sound much but it would dyno more if you took it else where.

I respect Courtney they are good and done very good work on my car but I dyno there and the following day dyno at where your car was mapped (you got Adam's car?) and lost 20 BHP. Obviously I didn't but each rolling road has different figures. Rich's Dyno is known to be accurate and doesn't throw out happy figures. Always read a bit stricter than most. 

 

If you want more power you need a 80mm MAF and bigger injectors (VXR) as your std injectors and 70mm will hold you back. I had your same MAP in fact your orgfinal map was mine then edited for that exact car as Adam used the same tuner after me.That will help a bit as the duty cycle was nearly maxed and MAF was pulling 5v all the time but really heat is the issue. A CC or meth is the only way to get some good power but then you will need a clutch and VXR turbo.

 

I tried all sorts of things on the dyno day regarding high inlet temps. The only real answer is meth or CC. I tried the bigger intercooler and it helps but still hits 70C+ with CC or meth you will have sub 50 and 40C on a cold day

 

You wont get much over 290/300bhp on a 2.5" system hence CS recommend the 3" version as they will pump loads past the 300BHP with ease

Edited by scw02102, 04 December 2019 - 09:04 PM.

Thats a great post thank you! Yes, its Adams old car. 

 

The map was done with the Miltek on, since then it had the Tullet put on but not run it again on the dyno. I wasn't planning on chasing numbers and to be honest the car is easy quick enough for me, I was wondering if the map would still be good on the different exhaust. Apologies if that sounds daft, I am no expert by some distance on mapping and engines!

 

Have attached the map it had with the Miltek, before the current full Tullet system went on

 

Edited by coldel, 05 December 2019 - 08:59 AM.

No you won’t need a new map with a bigger exhaust (2.5 to 3”) I had this conversation at WG Motorworks last month.
The bigger exhaust will flow and make power all through the Rev range. He said if I changed to 3” he wouldn’t map it would be waste of money.

With the bigger exhaust maybe a 80mm maf, new air filter and injectors will give a bit more power and torque.

My car got stuck even with meth and wouldn’t make power due to the 70mm being the restriction. It’s not like a biggger MAFS makes loads of power but does hold the VX back. By changing that gained decent amount of power for me.

Edited by scw02102, 05 December 2019 - 09:07 AM.

Thanks, I think I might just put my money elsewhere, as I say not chasing numbers was wondering if I am making the most out of what I had. I guess if a dyno opportunity came up I might just give it a run and look at the curves see what they look like.

Yeah a dyno run else where won’t hurt and is a lot cheaper than full remap.

Thanks, I think I might just put my money elsewhere, as I say not chasing numbers was wondering if I am making the most out of what I had. I guess if a dyno opportunity came up I might just give it a run and look at the curves see what they look like.

Depending what hardware you got one of Steve Knapp's maps might just suit, in running one of his maps on my stage 4 tubby, 3" exhaust, vxr injectors, vxr turbo, 80mm msg apexi air filter etc. Steve's map is far far better than the one MMG inserted when they upgraded me from stage 2 to 4. If you tell Steve what you have fitted he can adjust the map to fit

Ivor , I am no longer offering this service. Keep in mind the cars are getting on for 15-20 years , things like fuel pumps, injectors, sensors can drift out of calibration.

Ivor , I am no longer offering this service. Keep in mind the cars are getting on for 15-20 years , things like fuel pumps, injectors, sensors can drift out of calibration.

Ok Steve, that's a great shame though!

Thanks, the previous remap was done by Rabbid Remaps which have a good standing in the VXR community by all accounts. 

 

Indeed, I'd not waste money on changing it unless you have a definitive problem.

 

Instead, I'd spend the money/time on inspecting/replacing the known safety weak points on the car: http://www.vx220.org...ecks/?p=1982907

 

Edited by Nev, 15 December 2019 - 08:37 AM.

Never noticed that post before, thanks will do.

Fit poly suspension bushes, good suspension, sticky tyres, good pads, brained brake lines ( peace of mind, this cars has around 15 years) brake fluid, short shifter, toe links, subframe brace....

This car is to enjoy twisty roads, on highways you can have +300hp without problems but with +300cv on twisty and tight roads... fit a roll cage and harness😆

I have many stuff on my car and Regelin stage 2.5, 260cv approx. I don't want to push it to the limit on the straight lines because you can go very very fast... around 160km/h on this kind of roads is very dangerous for me and everything around me... except the rocks and trees

Thanks Simons, the post was more about making the most out of what I already had on the car, rather than chasing numbers. It sounds like from previous responses that I am on a good map and pushing pretty much on to what I can with what I have so am now referring back to the link above sent by Nev on what to do next...

Aaaa ok mate!