Engine Oil

Petronas Syntium 3000

- SAE 5W-40, ACEA A3/B3/B4, API SM/CF, BMW LL-01, GM-LL-B-025, MB-Approval 229.5, PORSCHE, VW 502.00-505.00

 

 

 

my favourite fully synth though is from carparts4less (eurocarparts) is only £12.49 5 Litre

 

TRIPLE QX 5w40 Fully Synthetic

- API SN/CF, ACEA A3, B3, B4, VW502.00, 505.00, MB229.3, BMW LL-01, Renault RN700/710

http://www.eurocarpa...76031&0&cc5_248

19quid it says here?

 

Tom - what's the current favourite 5w40? Still the Fuchs SuperSyn from Opie?  

 

This - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

 

This better than the shell stuff?

 

 

Tom - what's the current favourite 5w40? Still the Fuchs SuperSyn from Opie?  

 

This - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

 

 

This better than the shell stuff?

 

They're comparable.

Thats good, shell stuff cost me similar price.

 

 

 

Tom - what's the current favourite 5w40? Still the Fuchs SuperSyn from Opie?  

 

This - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

 

 

This better than the shell stuff?

 

 

They're comparable.

 

I have another question regarding oil. What are the choices for a 10w50 oil? I can't find another one besides this one from total www.texoleo.com/product/total-quartz-racing-10w-50-5l Is this one any good? Thanks

I have another question regarding oil. What are the choices for a 10w50 oil? I can't find another one besides this one from total www.texoleo.com/product/total-quartz-racing-10w-50-5l Is this one any good? Thanks

There are more 10W-50 oils, a lot of them are listed here; http://www.opieoils....659-10w-50.aspx however regional availability and brand preferences will change.

I really can't comment on what 'good' 10W-50 oils there are, none of them are wanted by OEMs so they can't claim and don't need high performance. I would always use a 5W0-40 over a higher visc grade because I can differentiate the oil performance better.

Remember OE quote thin winter viscosity because many of their cars have to start in temps as low as -30 degree Centigrade (eg Scandinavia, Poland etc). If your car actually rarely starts in temps much colder than 0 degrees then changing to a thicker viscosity is not such a bad thing. If you car makes a lot of heat (due to tracking/fast road or simply due to big power) then a thicker viscosity is likely better too.

Lastly, IMO rather than discussing which oil is better than another by some tiny amount, the key is to change your oil more regularily. If you push your engine very hard and/or it is highly stressed then a regular oil and filter change is FAR more influential than whether you used Shell/Mobile/Castrol or any other manufacturer. This is because no matter who made the oil, it will 1) Breakdown and 2) Get contaminated with metals, fuel & carbon deposits.

Based on those 3 points above, I myself use a w50 grade oil, and it so happens to be a very cheap one (£15 for 4 Litres) but I change it every 1200 to 1500 miles.

Edited by Nev, 26 March 2016 - 01:24 PM.

Dipped the Noble the other day and was pleased to see the oil was still a golden colour(changed last May). I don't know what this means scientificly but it felt good to me 😂

Is it still golden after 5000 odd miles Mark?

I don't know as I've never done that many miles in a year in it 😂

I don't know as I've never done that many miles in a year in it 😂

!!  

Remember OE quote thin winter viscosity because many of their cars have to start in temps as low as -30 degree Centigrade (eg Scandinavia, Poland etc). If your car actually rarely starts in temps much colder than 0 degrees then changing to a thicker viscosity is not such a bad thing. If you car makes a lot of heat (due to tracking/fast road or simply due to big power) then a thicker viscosity is likely better too.

 

Lastly, IMO rather than discussing which oil is better than another by some tiny amount, the key is to change your oil more regularily. If you push your engine very hard and/or it is highly stressed then a regular oil and filter change is FAR more influential than whether you used Shell/Mobile/Castrol or any other manufacturer. This is because no matter who made the oil, it will 1) Breakdown and 2) Get contaminated with metals, fuel & carbon deposits.

 

Based on those 3 points above, I myself use a w50 grade oil, and it so happens to be a very cheap one (£15 for 4 Litres) but I change it every 1200 to 1500 miles.

I've got to disagree Nev;

Thinner winter viscosities are used for fuel economy benefits, not starting temperatures, however that means the entire engine is specified around that viscosity. Increasing the winter viscosity can stress the oil pump and lead to oil starvation at startup. Oils can take up to 2 minutes to reach the valve train from start up.

Small brands/ unbranded oils have less value in their brand and regularly blend off-spec oils. Usually these don't use additives as they are more expensive, and can lead to engine failure in minutes. This happens a lot in the US, but is more common than I would like in Europe. Larger brands don't do this as much because the damage to the brand is significant.

Finally, there is a massive performance gap between minimum specification oils and those carrying a lot of manufacturer specifications. With these engines you really do need the extra headroom, as some aspects of engine wear are a linear function of the oil performance rather than 'falling off the cliff' when the oil reaches its end of its life. For example, an oil with poor piston cleanliness will result in the same piston deposits if you change it regularly or infrequently over a set time period.

Sorry if it's been covered but what's the recommended change frequency when using the car on track?

200 hours of use,* halve that number if you want a big safety margin.

Value approximated from range of industry tests running at high load, high speed or high transient loads. Test duration ranges from 400 to 200 hours per oil drain.

I used to change mine every 25 hours

I think the very high revving engines do use a lot more oil, so you could easily have to put in more than 5 litres before 200 hours.

Not if it's a healthy engine. Expect between 5 - 10 g/h consumption.