Water Ingress Kit Mod
Both Bad Ass Engine covers fitted:-
Bad Ass Engine Covers
Trolley Jack:-
Trolley Jack
Edited by christurbo, 13 January 2006 - 05:05 PM.
The Useful Thread Collection
Started by
caleebra
, Aug 03 2005 08:20 AM
82 replies to this topic
#21
christurbo
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Posted 13 January 2006 - 04:46 PM
Water Ingress Kit fixture to a NA:-
Water Ingress Kit Mod
Both Bad Ass Engine covers fitted:-
Bad Ass Engine Covers
Trolley Jack:-
Trolley Jack
Water Ingress Kit Mod
Both Bad Ass Engine covers fitted:-
Bad Ass Engine Covers
Trolley Jack:-
Trolley Jack
#22
Dave
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Posted 22 January 2006 - 08:46 PM
Image Resizer, never have a life size photo on this site again.
Problems posting photo's the correct size on this site then use this useful tool direct from the Microsoft site.
"Image Resizer
This PowerToy enables you to resize one or many image files with a right-click."
Found by StuXVR
Dave
#23
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 12:34 PM
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Posted 16 February 2006 - 03:32 AM
Color / Styling - Image Database
View photos of the VX in any of the standard colors, or have a look at a wide range of styled / custompainted VXs
View photos of the VX in any of the standard colors, or have a look at a wide range of styled / custompainted VXs
Edited by JawZ, 16 February 2006 - 03:35 AM.
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#31
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Posted 18 March 2006 - 09:49 AM
#33
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Posted 11 May 2006 - 06:41 PM
#34
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#35
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Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:09 AM
Rear Tie Bar/ Track Rod End Replacement
Rears can apparently only now be bought as a 'kit' consisting of 1x tie rod and 2x track rod ends (Part #: 93178112).
If you want to tackle this job yourself and fit these parts you apparently need:
- 2x track-rod kit - £56 + VAT (from Vauxhall)
- 4x nylock nuts - £2.37 each + VAT (min. quantity 10 from Vauxhall)
The Nylock nuts are M10 x 1.25 pitch/ 14mm and can be bought individually from GWS Fastenings (01225 767630) @ £1.75 each.
Oh, and they're stainless steel (much better than the quality of the Vx items too!!)
Cheapest place to buy them from is > AutoVaux < at ~£46 inc VAT (normally ~£66 from Vx).
* Bear in mind that you will need a geo setup after installation! (see below)
I tackled this job with a friend and the measurements given in the guide are a bit of a red herring. The guide mentions using the measurement from the moveable shaft (that either attaches to the hub or to the wishbone, depending which end you are concentrating on!) to the adjustment nut. This shaft obviously moves and gives a false/ inaccurate measurement...
The most accurate method (loose interpretation of 'accurate'!) I found was to try and find the centre point of the encased ball joint - using inner lip of the joint to get the diameter, then halving it and scoring 3 lines into the casing - then measuring the distance from this point to the outer edge of the adjustment nut. I used this method for all four TRE's and managed to get home without any adverse affects to the handling. I'm still having the geometry checked by Plans Motorsport for peace of mind!
mod edit: 3 posts consolidated at poster's request
mod edit again: at poster's request!
Rears can apparently only now be bought as a 'kit' consisting of 1x tie rod and 2x track rod ends (Part #: 93178112).
If you want to tackle this job yourself and fit these parts you apparently need:
- 2x track-rod kit - £56 + VAT (from Vauxhall)
- 4x nylock nuts - £2.37 each + VAT (min. quantity 10 from Vauxhall)
The Nylock nuts are M10 x 1.25 pitch/ 14mm and can be bought individually from GWS Fastenings (01225 767630) @ £1.75 each.
Oh, and they're stainless steel (much better than the quality of the Vx items too!!)
Cheapest place to buy them from is > AutoVaux < at ~£46 inc VAT (normally ~£66 from Vx).
* Bear in mind that you will need a geo setup after installation! (see below)
I tackled this job with a friend and the measurements given in the guide are a bit of a red herring. The guide mentions using the measurement from the moveable shaft (that either attaches to the hub or to the wishbone, depending which end you are concentrating on!) to the adjustment nut. This shaft obviously moves and gives a false/ inaccurate measurement...
The most accurate method (loose interpretation of 'accurate'!) I found was to try and find the centre point of the encased ball joint - using inner lip of the joint to get the diameter, then halving it and scoring 3 lines into the casing - then measuring the distance from this point to the outer edge of the adjustment nut. I used this method for all four TRE's and managed to get home without any adverse affects to the handling. I'm still having the geometry checked by Plans Motorsport for peace of mind!
mod edit: 3 posts consolidated at poster's request
mod edit again: at poster's request!
Edited by Foxy, 02 October 2006 - 01:26 PM.
#36
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