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Fitting the ProAlloy Charge Cooler

Started by oblomov , May 08 2007 05:50 PM

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96 replies to this topic

#81 MartinS

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Posted 05 June 2009 - 11:10 AM

There is another benefit to taking the sill covers off. Once off, hacksaw the small hole into being a hole big enough for a hand/arm to go through and you can pick out all the stones etc in there easily. I got out 3 stones (definitely from Rockingham!), 1 biggie that I will never understand how it got in there and, a lovely blue metallic hair clip??? Definitely not mine. No more rattles when I accelerate and brake. Cutting the hole biggeralos makes it a lot easier to get the pipes through as well. Martin s

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#82 Muncher

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Posted 07 June 2009 - 05:44 PM

Today I've cut the holes and made the passage through the sill ready for the hose to be put through when it arrives next week. My sill looked like it really wasn't going to come off in one piece and even then I wasn't sure what advantage it would give. So I went for a different route. I cut a 51mm diameter hole in either end of the sill faces, with the intention that these can be filled with rubber "inspection cover" grommets, similar to those on the backs of the headlights. They sit quite deep in the wheel arches so I don't think you will ever really see them and as standard there are 2 smaller grommets in there as well for some reason. Effectively I just enlarged one of them. With the wheel off (and the clam off helped) I got a great view of the foam. I found two easy ways of cutting it, firstly I used a section of aluminium pipe which I cut some nicks into the end of and simply pressed it into the hole and it cuts through the foam quite easily just by twisting. It's then easy to enlarge the hole using a hacksaw blade taped to a stick. I would certainly recommend this method, very neat, very quick and no scraped knuckles are forearms!

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#83 Muncher

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 02:37 PM

Anyone have a wiring diagram of how to wire up the pump and relay? I want to take live and ground feeds from within the engine bay rather than wiring from the battery. I'm not sure which terminal on the relay is which at the moment! I am guessing the pins on the relay are: 1. Permanent live 2. Switched live 3. Ground 4. To pump live 5. To pump ground If that's the right sequence then I need to identify the identity of the pins and also where to find a permanent live and ground within the wiring in the boot...

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#84 The Batman

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 02:39 PM

wire them into the fuel pump

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#85 Muncher

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 02:58 PM

wire them into the fuel pump

For the switched live and ground? Anyone got any wiring locations/colours for them?

electrics are not my strong point

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#86 FLD

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 08:01 AM

I wired it as follows.... Live feed: battery - fuse box - (down sill with pipes) - relay - pump Switched live: - spliced in from fuel pump feed Earths: - both pump and relay ground I soldered in to the ground wire before the earthing point on the chassis in front of the pass side rear wheel

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#87 Muncher

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 08:58 AM

No wonder I couldn't see how the pre-rad was going to fit in on top of the standard rad. On the NA there are 2 plastic sections bonded onto the crash structure which need to be removed. Otherwise there isn't a hope of fitting the prerad. These two bits aren't present on the Turbo.

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#88 FLD

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 09:57 AM

No wonder I couldn't see how the pre-rad was going to fit in on top of the standard rad. On the NA there are 2 plastic sections bonded onto the crash structure which need to be removed. Otherwise there isn't a hope of fitting the prerad.

These two bits aren't present on the Turbo.

Yep, you need to take these off (discussed earlier) but you then need to support the rads on some hardish foam. The plastic rad supports bear the weight of the rad. The radsurround is rubbish material so wont take the weight o the rad bouncing around. The standard tubby has closed cell foam which people cut down to fit the CC rad. How are you getting on?

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#89 Muncher

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 10:08 AM

I still don't have the chargecooler so at the moment I can only do the prep work and nothing else. with any luck it will all be fitted over the weekend.

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#90 Muncher

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 03:18 PM

With the dual pass mod in place, what's the path the water takes? Can someone put them in sequence?

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#91 alanoo

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 03:24 PM

Water enters from the center cores to the outwards ones you have to reverse some of the laminova cores to follow this path (you can do from the outwards to the center ones, but the water pressure distribution may be not optimised due to the Y junction)

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#92 Muncher

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 05:10 PM

I know that bit, it's more a case of the rest of the circuit. Header tank - > Pump -> Prerad -> Manifold -> Header Tank OR Header Tank - > Pump -> Manifold -> Prerad -> Header Tank

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#93 FLD

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 06:32 PM

First one. the pump heats the water a touch so for ultimate cooling go pump then rad. Not sure how much difference it makes but its what my performance geek tells me.

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#94 Exmantaa

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:07 PM

My layout is: tank-> pump -> pre rad -> laminova's -> tank. Mainly due to better a hose layout this way with the dual pass, but I doubt it will make much difference.

Make sure you have switched the 2 laminova cores (small hole is water inlet) and put them back in the right orientation. (Big slots towards air gap.)

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#95 mbes2

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 08:01 AM

Charge cooler fitted...took me about 12 hours. Very handy thread

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#96 VincentL

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 08:04 AM

Does anyone have a pdf version of the installation? Photobucket ruined this thread...

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#97 oblomov

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 01:47 PM

Does anyone have a pdf version of the installation? Photobucket ruined this thread...

If you go here http://www.courtenay...n/info_117.html and look for Vx220 charge cooler fitting, a lot of the pictures in the guide are ones that Courtney's 'took' from my guide before the links were lost.