

Just Been Told The Head Is Cracked
#1
Posted 06 June 2007 - 05:20 PM

#2
Posted 06 June 2007 - 05:31 PM


#3
Posted 06 June 2007 - 05:37 PM
#4
Posted 06 June 2007 - 06:36 PM

Top tip:
to search the site thoroughly use googles advanced search option-
I typed in "head+spark site:www.vx220.org.uk" to get the above

#6
Posted 06 June 2007 - 09:10 PM
#7
Posted 06 June 2007 - 11:03 PM
#8
Posted 07 June 2007 - 12:18 AM
Thanks mandarinvx
So over tightening of the spark plugs is the likely cause. Now what i need to establish is were the plugs removed for the fitting of the new timing chain. if they were then the garage are responsible cos they put the plugs in a month ago. I better get a good nights sleep cos i'll need to be sharp tomorrow.
rabidh the garage have found a crack, if only what you suggested were true!
cheers for your help, Chris
Should have bought a backwards lotus, Sutol


although U R A BUS /Subaru is much more amusing
On a serious note, you have another option - some guys round here used to weld heads, Headway they were called, awesome work, one of the few places you could get 'porous head' fixed on the old XE motors. They've since gone bust, but, the skills and technology exist to fix your head - just need to find the right people. It was cheap too even compared to buying an ebay head (that might yet crack!?)
I wouldn't worry about running a repaired head, the repaired ones run perfectly (bear in mind most of these heads are being abused with obscene amounts of boost or running high compression+throttle bodies etc etc)
Edited by Guy009, 07 June 2007 - 12:26 AM.
#9
Posted 07 June 2007 - 06:59 AM

#10
Posted 07 June 2007 - 07:32 AM


#11
Posted 07 June 2007 - 07:35 AM
#12
Posted 07 June 2007 - 08:09 AM
yeah well spotted Guy!!!! thought well its a lotus but not quite so i thought i'd be clever. btw my forum name on the lotus site (i have a Lotus Elan) is llahxauv
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re the head, my car has only done 4.5k miles and therefore i think a new head should go on a nearly new engine. I'm going to see the car so i will have a better idea where the crack is, but the garages comment was that to stitch the crack would be v.difficult.
lol the vx is more lotus than the elise is

#13
Posted 08 June 2007 - 06:27 AM
This is quite true. Repair of a crack in a high stress area is even more difficult. Worse, it's an custom formula aluminum alloy, so welding will be nigh impossible.re the head, my car has only done 4.5k miles and therefore i think a new head should go on a nearly new engine. I'm going to see the car so i will have a better idea where the crack is, but the garages comment was that to stitch the crack would be v.difficult.
Repairs to non stress bearing cracks in for example cast iron exhaust ports is a crap shoot at best. It involves finding and drilling a hole BEYOND the end of the crack, then milling out the material on the sides of the crack so that you have a clean surface on which to weld, and finally fill welding the milled grove. Typically, these repairs last for a little while, then re-crack in the same area.
By far your best bet is to get a new or re-machined head. The cost of the head is only part of the repair. It will be the actual disassembly and re-assembly that will cost the greatest amount, and that cost is the same whether or not you try a jury rigged welded repair, or a new head with pre-fitted (ground & lapped) valves.
Obviously, the cost consideration is real, but for my money, I would not try having someone weld it and machine it back to fit. The greatest likely hood is that it will re-crack at the edges of the repair, and you'll be out another remove-reinstall cycle's wort of money, and end up buying a new head anyway.
Sorry this happened, but it's not the end of the world--just a bump in the road.
#14
Posted 08 June 2007 - 07:50 AM

#15
Posted 08 June 2007 - 09:01 AM
#16
Posted 08 June 2007 - 09:35 AM

#17
Posted 08 June 2007 - 09:47 AM
not sure where you're coming from, i have explained where the crack is my previous postings and the garage have agreed to replace the head free of charge. the garage told me that they actually ran the car up after fitting the timing chain and that is when they noticed a leak and traced it to no4 plug hole. They said the engine was suffering no ill effects and purring away quite happily.I'm deeply suspicious of you vauxhall stealer!
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A cracked cylinder head dependant on the location of the crack will have a number of different effects.
Water way - over pressurising the coolant systems. This will lead to over heading burst hoses, radiators and the like. it'd be running v badly either way.
Oil way - pressure into the oil/sump. Basically lots of oilly smoke as the oil is blown out of the sump into the inlet side of the engine, you would also probably need to collect your dipstick from the orbit of the earth it would probably be doing.
Between valve and spark plug - Again it'd run pretty badly and some serious defect of gorilla would be needed to cause this.
Between valves - Inlet you'd bet pressure back into the inlet manifold, very poor running fueling would be all to pot and generally an unhappy vx - you'd also get a chuffing noise as the pressure was forced out of the cylinder.
Exhaust - less of an effect that inlet but you'd still be dropping pressure on that cylinder, it'd feel like a misfire and i really think you'd notice the drop in power on the N/A.
Put bluntly have they described where the crack is - if its a faliure on a water way the plug would be looking knackered already and it'd probably miss like a bastard in the morning on start up. I think they're pulling your plonker! QUiz the bastards as they've probably dropped a bollock somewhere and are trying to get you to foot the bill for unnecessary work.
#18
Posted 08 June 2007 - 09:57 AM
not sure where you're coming from, i have explained where the crack is my previous postings and the garage have agreed to replace the head free of charge. the garage told me that they actually ran the car up after fitting the timing chain and that is when they noticed a leak and traced it to no4 plug hole. They said the engine was suffering no ill effects and purring away quite happily.
I'm deeply suspicious of you vauxhall stealer!![]()
A cracked cylinder head dependant on the location of the crack will have a number of different effects.
Water way - over pressurising the coolant systems. This will lead to over heading burst hoses, radiators and the like. it'd be running v badly either way.
Oil way - pressure into the oil/sump. Basically lots of oilly smoke as the oil is blown out of the sump into the inlet side of the engine, you would also probably need to collect your dipstick from the orbit of the earth it would probably be doing.
Between valve and spark plug - Again it'd run pretty badly and some serious defect of gorilla would be needed to cause this.
Between valves - Inlet you'd bet pressure back into the inlet manifold, very poor running fueling would be all to pot and generally an unhappy vx - you'd also get a chuffing noise as the pressure was forced out of the cylinder.
Exhaust - less of an effect that inlet but you'd still be dropping pressure on that cylinder, it'd feel like a misfire and i really think you'd notice the drop in power on the N/A.
Put bluntly have they described where the crack is - if its a faliure on a water way the plug would be looking knackered already and it'd probably miss like a bastard in the morning on start up. I think they're pulling your plonker! QUiz the bastards as they've probably dropped a bollock somewhere and are trying to get you to foot the bill for unnecessary work.
sorry too much speed reading between bosses!


#19
Posted 09 June 2007 - 01:42 AM
Precisely correct. (I especially agree with the comment about the first 50 miles for the rings... see MotoMan's Break-In Secrets)erm the head wont really need running in. the only parts of a new engine that require GENUINE running in are the piston rings (and most of their running in is done in the first 50 miles of use)
id prehaps take it easy for 100 miles, check to leaks then drive as normal.
Regarding run-in on the head, you really don't even need to take it easy for that first 100 miles, but slidborg is spot on with the check for leaks at 100 miles. The reason for no run-in is that the valves are lapped into the seats and come right of the gate working as well as they will ever work. There's an issue of minor rough spots on cam lobes and followers, but there's no special RPM needed (except that idle is probably not the best--you need to get the oil flowing well up in the top of the valve train, and that happens at any RPM over about 1500.) While you're driving the first few miles, just be sure to vary the RPM range a bit: you don't want to immediately park the revs at 1800 on cruise control for the first 50 miles, but generally there's nothing to worry about.
I am so glad to hear about the dealer accepting responsibility. Indeed, the fellows on this forum were quite helpful in that regard with their links to past threads, and that's why we respect the senior members of such forums--wisdom through experience and longevity...

Edited by Crimson Avenger, 09 June 2007 - 01:44 AM.
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