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Diy Heating Duct


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#1 calletson

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 04:33 PM

After messing around with bits of 2ltr bottles and trying to reform the crumpled mess that is (was) the OE heating duct, i decided to create a new duct rather that mess around!

Only used bits from the shed, mainly drain pipe pieces!

Didnt take too long, i will include some pics, if anyone wants to try it.

First i started with a 67.5 degree 68mm bend, which fits PERFECTLY into the opening of the heater matrix! Then fitted a length of 68mm drainpipe:

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Here is the 67.5 degree pipe in the heater matrix:

Looking from the top
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Its a nice snug fit into the heater matrix opening.

Looking into bay
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So obviously now we need a 90 degree bend to lign up with the cabin duct (it was actually a 87.5 degree bend i used.....

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Above shows the bend with the length which will go into the cabin duct. (the 68mm drainpipe is too small to snugly fit into the opening so wrapped it with some foam so very tight fit once pushed in.

Put this in the end to stop big bits of debris:
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I then disassembled it all and washed the pipes inside and out, reassembled and turned on the heater! Zero loss of airflow!

I then used some tape to further seal /protect the foam from moisture at the drainpipe end to the cabin and tidied it up.

Finished
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Im very impressed with how well it all fits together - very robust! And easy to remove if needs be, all the parts just push together!

Taking it off next week to spray the grey drainpipe black, then, job done!

Edited by calletson, 10 February 2008 - 04:34 PM.


#2 bohemoth

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 04:46 PM

would it not just be easier to use a piece of tumble dryer hose (pvc/rubber) this is on my ist of things to sort out. i already installed a filter i got from motoconcept

#3 calletson

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 05:00 PM

would it not just be easier to use a piece of tumble dryer hose (pvc/rubber) this is on my ist of things to sort out. i already installed a filter i got from motoconcept


Probabally but i didnt have any in my shed :rolleyes:

#4 rturner

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 05:13 PM

would it not just be easier to use a piece of tumble dryer hose (pvc/rubber) this is on my ist of things to sort out. i already installed a filter i got from motoconcept


Probabally but i didnt have any in my shed :rolleyes:


Looks good...I've just done similar with bodged together bits of bottles, which has made a decent improvement to the amount of air and warmth reaching the cabin. I tried tumble drier hose, but the problem is getting it to sit exactly over the outlet of the heater and it kept getting snagged on various bits under the bonnet. Think I might head down to B&Q tomorrow evening for some bits of drainpipe :)

#5 bohemoth

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 07:15 PM

i know space is limited at the heater but isnt it possible to get a cable tie or something at the bottom to hold the pipe on tightly. im just fishing for info before i have a proper bash at it :rolleyes:

#6 calletson

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 09:40 PM

i know space is limited at the heater but isnt it possible to get a cable tie or something at the bottom to hold the pipe on tightly. im just fishing for info before i have a proper bash at it :rolleyes:


Not on mine as its pressed up against metal part of the car, so no way of getting anything around the outside of the opening. Think the position of the heater matrix is variable (talking millimeters) as the vx is hand built so on yours you may be able too??

#7 p4cks

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 09:12 AM

Calletson, mine is the same. I bought some 4" diametre piping from B&Q and it's is near enough impossible to fit it round the bottom of the matrix as it is pushed hard against the car. The pipe is now on, but I think I have some sort of blockage inbetween the actual vents in the cabin to the pipe itself. And I've no idea how I can definatively find out :(

#8 luna_s

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 09:27 AM

the pipe is 85mm im thinking of ways of making a 85mm to 40mm reducer so i can use 40mm diameter pipework instead, just unsure what to fabricate it from, i was thinking of thermoforming somehow, or even fibreglass probably some reduction in air flow, but could possibly produce warmer air

#9 calletson

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 01:08 PM

the pipe is 85mm

im thinking of ways of making a 85mm to 40mm reducer so i can use 40mm diameter pipework instead,
just unsure what to fabricate it from, i was thinking of thermoforming somehow, or even fibreglass

probably some reduction in air flow, but could possibly produce warmer air


I too was thinking of fabricating a fibre glass reducer; my idea was to get a piece of fabric, wrap it around the 85mm pipe and secure with a cabletie, then wrap the other end of the fabric around the smaller diameter pipe, securing with a cable tie and making sure it was 'taught'. This should then produce a conical shape to which you would brush on / stipple in some fibre glass resin to make the structure hard, then strengthen with fibreglass layers.

#10 Ouchie

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 01:58 PM

I replaced my tumble dryer tubing with some B&Q drainpipe frankenstein thing. The tumble dryer tubing was fragile and had developed a few leaks. Heat escape was also an issue before the holes appeared. Shopping list at B&Q was : 3 x 45 degree 68mm 1 x 68mm straight extension 1 x 90 degree 68mm Assembly instructions (starting from the heater output) : 45 degree -> 45 degree -> straight -> 90 degree -> 45 degree -> back of dash. Then used high strength sticky back velco (the softer bits) to make the joints tight but slightly flexible. Then taped the joins with some gaffer tape. Heat is now making the tape lose its stickyness though. Heat inside the car is massively improved. I also made sure any gaps were sealed with gaffer tape around the heater matrix output and the back of the dash.

#11 Code Monkey

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 02:10 PM

the pipe is 85mm

im thinking of ways of making a 85mm to 40mm reducer so i can use 40mm diameter pipework instead,
just unsure what to fabricate it from, i was thinking of thermoforming somehow, or even fibreglass

probably some reduction in air flow, but could possibly produce warmer air



B&Q is still your friend, chinky chinky

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#12 luna_s

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 08:41 PM

yeah i got one of those, might do a trial fit, they are still quite large

#13 rturner

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 09:11 PM

I've just followed calletson's drainpipe recipe (with a couple of amendments to get a better seal) to replace the standard silver hose. Bought all the pipes/bends in black from B&Q for about £12 and it's given an excellent improvement in air flow. I get a proper gale blowing out of the vents now :) Bit dark for pics now but looks quite smart.

#14 Ouchie

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 10:53 PM

I upgraded my drainpipe frankenstein with the "pair of tights mod" and replaced my flappy bits of gaffer tape with metal repair tape because it has a larger operating temperature range. Something like -20 to +120 degC

#15 p4cks

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 10:35 AM

I have just done this mod, and am now convinced that I have a blockage from the dashboard end. How on earth do I find out where it is blocked, and how to solve the problem. :unsure:

#16 techieboy

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 10:59 AM

I have just done this mod, and am now convinced that I have a blockage from the dashboard end. How on earth do I find out where it is blocked, and how to solve the problem. :unsure:


The air from the pipe under the bonnet is dumped into a plenum chamber type arrangement on the inside of the car and is distributed from there to wherever the heater distribuiton controls are set.

Got to be dashboard top cover off, I'm afraid. Then you can check the plenum and ducting on the underside of the dash cover. Best to remove the ducting (about 20 screws) and clean it out as it'll be full of cack and then refix it (plus maybe seal around the edges of the ducting with gaffa tape). You can also check the heater panel mechanism whilst it's off to make sure they are moving through the full range of adjustment properly. When I refitted my dash, I also built up the foam insulation around the rectangular outlet from the plenum where it mates to the ducting on the underside of the dash panel. Made a big difference as a lot of air was obviously leaking into the dash void and not making it into the ducting.

This is what the ducting looks like (note how much crap is in there). Mine was quite leaky around the edges where it was meant to be flush to the underside of the dash. The rectangular hole is what mates up to the outlet from the plenum. I aadded a layer of foam insulation to around the edges of this and the corresponding bit on the plenum outlet itself, so they sealed better. Much more airflow now and it's actually warm air, as well.

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Edited by techieboy, 14 February 2008 - 11:06 AM.


#17 BlueVX52

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 08:43 PM

Would it be worth some kind of token insulation around the driainpipe mod?

#18 calletson

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 08:54 PM

Would it be worth some kind of token insulation around the driainpipe mod?


I doubt it would make any difference?? If you take all the pipe work off and put your hand over the heater matrix opening you will be suprised how powerful/fast the air coming out is! So it wont cool hardly atall before it reaches the cabin, i wouldnt think!

Be good to see other members pics of their installed drain pipework!!

#19 Ouchie

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Posted 15 February 2008 - 12:36 PM

Would it be worth some kind of token insulation around the driainpipe mod?


I doubt it would make any difference?? If you take all the pipe work off and put your hand over the heater matrix opening you will be suprised how powerful/fast the air coming out is! So it wont cool hardly atall before it reaches the cabin, i wouldnt think!

Be good to see other members pics of their installed drain pipework!!


Not sure drainpipe would benefit from insulating. The plastic is 2-3mm thick and the heat passes through to the cabin quite well.
Will have to wait until summer to see if the pipe absorbs too much heat from the radiator.

Photo will be on the way :)

#20 rturner

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Posted 15 February 2008 - 04:28 PM

Here's my effort using the B&Q pipes suggested in the thread...

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