18 replies to this topic

[Bargi]

Getting rods and pistons done soon and I've heard and read various things as to oils when running the motor in. Mostly I've heard running in the first 500-800miles on a non-synthetic oil but for 2 different reasons 1. Performance - It catches the crap coming off the engine better than a synth 2. Cost - Synth is just as good but as you're changing the oil in such a short time just go a cheap non-synth I contacted our forums friend Opie oils and they recommend a full synth for breaking in http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx Needless to say a little confused with which way to go. Appreciate other peoples comments or experience in the matter

[oilman]

Ooops, I think I gave you the wrong link This is the one I meant http://www.opieoils....ing-in-oil.aspx Sorry about that. Cheers Tim

[techieboy]

I ran mine in for 100 miles or so on mineral oil. Then did about 800 miles on semi-synth (at least one oil change in that time) before moving back onto fully synth.

[The Batman]

Oil man is that fully or non syth?

[slindborg]

Rings are bed in within 50miles or so.... MAN UP and do it the hard way treat her mean keep her keen, none of this pussying about letting the rings glaze up a treat! http://www.millersoi..._MOTORSPORT.htm looks minreally but with some sh** chucked in... Thats tech speak for you

Edited by slindborg, 15 March 2011 - 01:15 PM.

[techieboy]

Rings are bed in within 50miles or so.... MAN UP and do it the hard way treat her mean keep her keen, none of this pussying about letting the rings glaze up a treat!

I followed more of that kind of approach on the second engine. The fact it's still going is probably proof that a "harder" run-in works better than pussyfooting around like I did the first time.

[The Batman]

Right then, oil it up and rag the sh** out of it

Edited by joe_589, 15 March 2011 - 01:20 PM.

[FLD]

I usually use loads of engine assembly paste for the initial lube up then run it with cheapo oil. I do a rev range run up with no load, change the oil (for the stuff I'll always use) and then run it in over the rev range again. As said dont nurse it! I then change the oil after 500 ish miles.

[oilman]

Oil man is that fully or non syth?

It's a mineral based oil with additives to help it bed in

[Bargi]

Ooops, I think I gave you the wrong link

This is the one I meant

no problem, makes more sense now

Rings are bed in within 50miles or so.... MAN UP and do it the hard way treat her mean keep her keen, none of this pussying about letting the rings glaze up a treat!

Right then, oil it up and rag the sh** out of it

Sweeeet, that's what you want I want to hear!

cheers guys, helps a lot!

[fiveoclock]

I was talking to Jez at BoT about this today and he said use mineral oil to run it in and treat it rough!!!!

[Pidgeon]

I was talking to Jez at BoT about this today and he said use mineral oil to run it in and treat it rough!!!!

Works for me!

[Bargi]

I was talking to Jez at BoT about this today and he said use mineral oil to run it in and treat it rough!!!!

Works for me!

what does? Mineral oil or treating it rough?

[slindborg]

Note a rough treating is a moderate run up the rev range and lots of snap shut throttle and engine braking on the way down

[VXT Tim]

a moderate run up the rev range and lots of snap shut throttle and engine braking on the way down

Exactly what I was told by an engine guy many moons ago.

[Pidgeon]

I was talking to Jez at BoT about this today and he said use mineral oil to run it in and treat it rough!!!!

Works for me!

what does? Mineral oil or treating it rough?

Both (and what Slindborg says) My empirical evidence, 1, the only engine ever to fail on initial running was filled with synthetic, 2, the best engine I ever built was filled with supermarket 20/50 and abused out of the box, but within a 2/3 maximum rev limit.

[chris]

Another age debate ... I am pretty sure that the turbocharger will be pleased with mineral oil !

Edited by chris, 17 March 2011 - 06:27 PM.

[fezzasus]

Running mineral oil to run in is utter bollocks.

Main point of running in is to full seat the bearings and remove high points of metal finishing around the engine. This generally means the oil needs to be able to suspend metal particles well; the oil needs to have a high dispersant content. All mineral oils are low cost oils with minimised additive treats and therefore low dispersant. Stick with something decent.

[Rosssco]

Thread revival..!

 

So, reading the above, has anyone taken a different approach (for better or worse) to 'modern' running in process as out lined in the last few posts above?

 

Trying to summarise the best approach and one free of 'traditional' information which may not be relevant to modern engines.

 

- Use normal spec engine oil (5W-30 semi-synth GM spec - I'm not convinced manufacturers would specify a different engine oil for new cars for the running in period. I would think this is odd and ripe for causing confusion and potential warranty issues)

 

- Adjust usage for the first 50-100 miles involving moderately high (but not excessive) variable engine loads and rpm's (many purchasers of new cars will not strictly adhere to these schedule anyway)

 

- Maybe change the engine oil / filter after 1,000 miles to collect any excess debris created by the initial running in period