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Rear Caliper Removal. Meh!


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#1 Steve Down

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:01 PM

Hi Folks, Created a bit of a problem for myself, this evening I tried removing one of the calipers, no probs with the top bolt but the smaller allen type is knackered. I've managed to virtually round it out so it can't be undone. Anyone else had experience of this? I need to slap on replacement discs. Any advice or assistance would be most appreciated. Ta, Steve

#2 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:05 PM

Hi Folks,

Created a bit of a problem for myself, this evening I tried removing one of the calipers, no probs with the top bolt but the smaller allen type is knackered. I've managed to virtually round it out so it can't be undone.

Anyone else had experience of this? I need to slap on replacement discs.

Any advice or assistance would be most appreciated.

Ta,

Steve



Pull the pads out, then the disk too and the caliper will slide off leaving the bolt attached on it's own. You should be able to get it out with some mole grips, then buy a new bolt :)

*****************EDIT*****************

I think :lol:

#3 lrid

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:09 PM

You dont need the bottom one off. If you have the top one out it should be able to slide on the lower bolt then pivot away from the disc. If you want to get the bolt out to replace it you can slide the caliper right off the lower bolt then get some stillsons / bolt extractor on the head. I used a bit of heat to loosen it first as well thumbsup

#4 Steve Down

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:10 PM

Cheers guys :-)

#5 Ouchie

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:50 PM

There's an Elise rear brake disc replacement video on YouTube. Very handy.

#6 sford

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:08 PM

The top bolt will pull towards the car and allow the calliper to rotate back. You shouldn't need to remove the calliper to do the disc, I didn't when I did mine. In fact, the problem you will have is rotating the calliper off if you have worn a decent groove in the disc from the pads! In that case, you may be able to (again I did) slide the pads towards the hub whilst the calliper is still over the disc and then the calliper will be free to move.

Edited by sford, 05 May 2011 - 11:09 PM.


#7 slindborg

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:14 PM

If you get really stuck give me a shout and I might be able to pop over to assist/swear at it :lol:

#8 greasemonkey

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:23 PM

Sometimes tapping a slightly larger torx into a worn allen key bolt does the trick to get them out and can then be reused if required thumbsup

#9 Mangham54

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 11:48 AM

I can confirm the advice given above.... Top bolt out, and rattle until the caliper twist back over the lip of the disc. Then slide the caliper off the lower bolt and sleeve and then get a decent set of mole grips onto the head of the bolt. Replacement bolt from Lotus is about £3 including postage and VAT.

Your other option when replacing discs is to knock the pin out of the caliper and catch the spring clip. Then tap the pads out of the caliper and then you have enough access to pull the disc out.

DON'T FORGET: If you are replacing the discs you will need to remove the pads to wind the piston back in; otherwise the disc will not fit between the pads and you will effectively have the handbrake stuck on, until you have worn the pads far enough to allow the disc to run free again.

#10 Steve Down

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 08:44 AM

Gonna have another crack at this in a mo, I tried using nails to punch out the the pin, bent them all. After that annoying episode I rushed over to Halfords and bought a proper punch. I haven't started using harsh language yet, trying to keep my cool. Right then! Attempt number 4, getting good at taking the wheel off, that's about it. :wacko:

#11 Zoobeef

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 08:49 AM

Sometimes tapping a slightly larger torx into a worn allen key bolt does the trick to get them out and can then be reused if required thumbsup


This.

Hammer and a torx bit does the job 90% of the time, every time.

#12 Mangham54

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 10:09 AM

Gonna have another crack at this in a mo, I tried using nails to punch out the the pin, bent them all. After that annoying episode I rushed over to Halfords and bought a proper punch.
I haven't started using harsh language yet, trying to keep my cool.
Right then! Attempt number 4, getting good at taking the wheel off, that's about it. :wacko:


Give the visible end of the pin a quick spray of penetrating spray about 10mins before levelling abuse! the biggest pain is getting it out the first time, and trying to figure out the best way to swing the hammer, but once you have done it once it will just fly out easy everytime afterwards. Well it has for me!

#13 slindborg

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 03:31 PM


Gonna have another crack at this in a mo, I tried using nails to punch out the the pin, bent them all. After that annoying episode I rushed over to Halfords and bought a proper punch.
I haven't started using harsh language yet, trying to keep my cool.
Right then! Attempt number 4, getting good at taking the wheel off, that's about it. :wacko:


Give the visible end of the pin a quick spray of penetrating spray about 10mins before levelling abuse! the biggest pain is getting it out the first time, and trying to figure out the best way to swing the hammer, but once you have done it once it will just fly out easy everytime afterwards. Well it has for me!



Using the right punch is a very wise move ;)

Almost the most useful addition to my tool collection has been a decent set of parallel and taper punches. They help out with all manner of tasks

#14 Steve Down

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 04:35 PM

All sorted, as the saying goes, right tools for the job, and having bought the Halfords punch kit it was made so easy. Gave it all a good clean up while I was at it. Wouldn't mind stripping out all the suspension, sand blasting and a powder coating the lot. Thanks to everyone for the advice and the offer to pop over and help :-)




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