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Rattling Window Cure


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#41 hughcam

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Posted 27 July 2012 - 04:01 PM

I have just done this the lazy way. It only took 15 minutes :D

#42 J4EY D

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 04:36 PM

I think I made this a hell of a lot harder than its supposed to be!! :lol: In the end I gave up and put it back together how it was originaly... Somehow it doesn't have any rattles now :lol:

#43 Red 5

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 08:07 PM

..just replaced the drivers front on insurance and the nylon blocks on the old window had worn massively in comparison to the new window, it now sits tighter to the roof and sounds and feels brand new again..no rattles, knocks or squeaks what so ever..so if you know a local windscreen company and your fully comp itl only cost £50 or £60 on your excess to get both brand new front drops fitted..not bad when there over £250 +vat from main dealer.. ..got to say that the above tip is awesome and ive spent plenty of time farting around with doors to know that there a pain in the arse at times... thumbsup

Edited by Red 5, 21 August 2012 - 08:08 PM.


#44 Hark

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 09:22 PM

Just rounded off the 'Techie' screw.  Think I'll try tightening it back up and trying the cheats way. 

 

Nothing is ever as simple as you want it to be.



#45 wanabee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 11:47 AM

Did mine this morning using the ''rail in situ' method. It worked like a charm :)



#46 CocoPops

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 11:55 AM

Still not done mine :( must do it though.

#47 wanabee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 12:17 PM

Still not done mine :( must do it though.

 

It literally took minutes. Get stuck in man. :D  



#48 christhegasman

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 03:24 PM

Did mine this morning using the ''rail in situ' method. It worked like a charm :)

How Any pictures or guidelines please

#49 CocoPops

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 03:36 PM

:yeahthat: So what do I need to remove? Remove shoulder pad? Outer door window seal? (looks to be held in with a pin not a screw). Etc

#50 Hark

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 04:25 PM

Ideally you need door stripped down as if you are going to adjust the heights. Then remove rubber seal. No other door internal bits need touching. Mine rattled a huge amount and just thought it was part of the ownership experience. With my windows adjusted as well I can almost hear myself think now.

#51 wanabee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 05:07 PM

:yeahthat: So what do I need to remove? Remove shoulder pad? Outer door window seal? (looks to be held in with a pin not a screw). Etc

I did remove the shoulder pad, the door card (modified with velcro in 2011) and the outer door seal first (Mine was secured with a small screw).


Edited by wanabee, 19 May 2013 - 05:09 PM.


#52 wanabee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 05:17 PM

 

Did mine this morning using the ''rail in situ' method. It worked like a charm :)

How Any pictures or guidelines please

 

I followed Bargi's modified guide on this thread. You can use the pics from the OP. The last one shows how straightforward it is to feed the mod through the slot on the bonded block. All you need then is access to the backing at the bottom of the rail to pull it off. Then wind the window up and down a few times to force the mod to the rail all the way along.



#53 Hark

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

Windows don't rattle anymore, but the bonnet seems to rattle twice as loud.  lol

 

Next on the list then...



#54 wanabee

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

Windows don't rattle anymore, but the bonnet seems to rattle twice as loud.  lol

 

Next on the list then...

 

:D  I couldn't believe how much better it sounded. Like you said though one job leads inevitably to another...



#55 Zuber

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 11:52 AM

A couple more pics as requested by someone. Hope it helps. For me, it improved a bit, but most of the rattle seems to be from the frame having play in it.

 

Can't promise pics will be there forever, so if someone wants to host them somewhere more permanent please do.

 

Posted Image

 

Posted Image

 

Posted Image

 

 

 



#56 RabnaKS

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 02:13 PM

That's Amazing! I get a whine every time i want to go for a drive & then wife sits in passenger seat & it gets worse when I try making the VX go a little faster.



#57 e7 jmc

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 03:16 PM

SO AFTER 10 YEARS ........... After listening to my rattling windows for the last ten years I decided to sort them out and follow this guide. Unbelievable £1.23 and 37 minutes later my car no longer rattles its like the day vauxhall lotus made it possibly maybe hopefully! I read all the posts and did it slightly differently, only removing the window weather strip. Using the fore mentioned trunking I cut to length and trimmed off only one side leaving an L shape, one side with the adhesive strip still intact. This was then squeezed down the door guide in effect creating a lining for it. With a bit of wiggling the window it was quickly located then the adhesive backing was slowly pulled of. The "lining " was stuck down aprox half of the door guide length but so far works perfectly. Try it you will be amazed your car will be transformed! Sure its faster now too!

#58 Foxy

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 08:42 PM

Yay, no more rattly windows! The Hoon should be bearable now :D found that the rearmost rail on the passenger side had become completely disconnected - no wonder the window sounded like it was going to smash over every bump! Big thanks to all who contributed to this guide. Cheers chinky chinky

#59 scw02102

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Posted 06 May 2014 - 07:50 PM

I'm useless but would love to get rid of my drivers side rattle 

 

anyone in local to Kent want to to do mine I will buy them beer and more beer and then more beer :)



#60 .Adam.

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 04:24 PM

I did mine the other day, had done the rear rail a few months ago, which made the front rattle even more, and then the top screw holding the rail on fell out so as I had to take everything out I did the front rail! I'm happy to give you a hand, Rossi, although I don't class myself as particularly mechanical!






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