My Inner CV boot has split again during a trackday. Are there any opinions as to the cause?
I assume it's the angle of the driveshaft and the heat from the exhaust causing the issue.
I could try a breather in the boot as this would allow expansion of the grease and prevent any pressure inside the boot from rupturing it.
I did however notice that the rubber gets very hot and to some extent dried out, which may be the cause of the splitting.
I have seen a heat shield on Ebay but I guess that's for the driver side as there doesn't seem to be the room on the nearside. There is also the venting via the rear clam section, although I guess this would require a hole in the liner somewhere.
I've gone through 3 since June (gravel at Mallory, CV joint failure at Goodwood (possibly due to loss of grease at some point earlier) and a boot split at Combe - which has led to a knocking CV joint).
Any suggestions?
Inner Cv Joint Heat Issues
Started by
bunsenburner
, Sep 13 2011 11:29 AM
14 replies to this topic
#1
bunsenburner
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 11:29 AM
#2
Nev
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 11:54 AM
Why not wrap the exhaust near the CV boot? It would only cost a few quid. Double wrap it even.
#3
starlight
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 12:10 PM
I thought the heat shield under the CV joint was on the nearside...
Are we talking turbo / NA / or SC?
EDIT - when looking under car, things look the other way around - should be offside
Are we talking turbo / NA / or SC?
EDIT - when looking under car, things look the other way around - should be offside
Edited by pjohn151, 13 September 2011 - 12:20 PM.
#4
alanoo
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 12:19 PM
It's indeeed the angle + the heat;
Common issue on racing Speedsters here
A breather helps, next step is fitting special kevlar-fiber reinforced silicone boots.
Btw, the gearbox temperature itself is an issue too, in the few speedster that have it monitored you can log 160 to 170°C gearbox oil temperatures...
#5
Dave E
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 01:15 PM
.......next step is fitting special kevlar-fiber reinforced silicone boots.
Would you have a web address for the kevlar boot?
I've been through more than my fair share and I know a few others that would be interested if reasonably priced.
#6
techieboy
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 01:22 PM
#7
Coral flash
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 01:35 PM
....also an occasional dose of silicone spray such as tyre dressing/duck oil might help stopping the rubber drying out and keep them supple.
#8
bunsenburner
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 02:01 PM
I should really learn to replace the boot myself if I can't solve the issue.
I read through Slindborg's guide again just now. It seems a little daunting for a mechanical newbie (and some pics would help a lot).
Since my joint is now almost certainly knackered I will have to replace that too.
I assume replacing both joints and drive shaft in one go would be a lot easier (less access required and without the grease).
#9
alanoo
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 02:53 PM
I'll chase down the address for you.
A french friend had its boots copied/molded by a specialized company for the kevlar reinforced to be made, I'll have to ask him
#10
Dave E
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:30 PM
I'll chase down the address for you.
A french friend had its boots copied/molded by a specialized company for the kevlar reinforced to be made, I'll have to ask him
#11
alanoo
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:58 PM
Btw the OE outer boots are not even rubber... but plastic !
they usually don't fail but still scary !
#12
JimmyJamJerusalem
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Posted 15 September 2011 - 07:59 PM
I'll chase down the address for you.
A french friend had its boots copied/molded by a specialized company for the kevlar reinforced to be made, I'll have to ask him
#13
alanoo
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Posted 15 September 2011 - 08:01 PM
No answer yet 
#14
the-duke
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 08:31 AM
I have read that this can be caused by the way you mount it. (thanks to Arno)
It seems to be important to mount the CV joint rubber while pressing as much air out as possible, before clamping it down and making sure that the folds of the rubber do not hit eachother at the normal driving height.
Otherwise, with temperature, the rubber blows up like a balloon through heat from the surroundings and the joint itself, which ruptures it.
Of course watch out in general with the rubber being able to hit any sharp edges, but I assume you already checked that out.
Gr,
The Duke
#15
bunsenburner
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 08:46 AM
I have read that this can be caused by the way you mount it. (thanks to Arno)
It seems to be important to mount the CV joint rubber while pressing as much air out as possible, before clamping it down and making sure that the folds of the rubber do not hit eachother at the normal driving height.
Otherwise, with temperature, the rubber blows up like a balloon through heat from the surroundings and the joint itself, which ruptures it.
Of course watch out in general with the rubber being able to hit any sharp edges, but I assume you already checked that out.
Gr,
The Duke
I'm going to try it with a breather this time. I've heard a small section of straw (like the ones you get with a WD40 can) inserted under the strap would work.
I'm not sure if every time it gets hot there'll be grease spurted out everywhere, but it's worth a try.
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