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#41 Arno

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:01 AM

No, no need for the snubber washers on aftermarket style bushes. thumbsup


Correct, but do replace the snubber washer with a normal washer so the total stack-of-washers thickness remains the same and you don't crush/bend the chassis pickup point as you tighten the bolts.

I also find it useful to buy the same large castor washers for the rear upper mount as well.. Saves a huge amount of time with refitting as you don't need to mess with getting the small washers to fit which can be really annoying.

If you use new washers then a good trick is to super-glue them together so you don't need to fit 'em separately.

Bye, Arno.

#42 haggi961

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:54 AM

Thanks for the tip. The super pro bushes come with the new washers that are the big version and I have some super glue ready for the fitting thumbsup When you say rear upper mount do you mean the rear of the car? if so mine didn't have any washers to take off and only came with lock tab washers.

#43 vocky

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 09:10 AM

No, the rear bush on the front wishbones :closedeyes: rear wishbones have no spacer washers thumbsup

#44 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 09:15 AM

Superglue..????? Noooo. Must fit 4 castor washers on front uppers, two at the front of each upper bush, two at the rear. This will give pretty much the best castor setting to start with.

Edited by Cliffie, 28 October 2011 - 09:19 AM.


#45 FLD

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 09:24 AM

Superglue..????? Noooo.

:yeahthat:
I used a thin smear of anti corrosion grease to hold the washers together.

#46 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 30 October 2011 - 04:03 AM

Eff all wrong with superglue (not that I use it, there is a knack to doing it without anything). Castor is set to personal preferance, push the boat out 2-2 is poof :lol:

#47 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 30 October 2011 - 08:45 AM

Eff all wrong with superglue (not that I use it, there is a knack to doing it without anything). Castor is set to personal preferance, push the boat out 2-2 is poof :lol:


2-2 is a good starting point for road/track day car.

#48 haggi961

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 03:37 PM

Im just in the process of rebuilding my car back up and ive got my new bolts of jg but im stuck on which bolts go where. These bolts go in the upright to bolt the hub back on. There seems to be two different types of bolts and i assume a set is for the back and a set for the front. Can anyone tell me which is which please.

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#49 techieboy

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 03:43 PM

From memory, the shorter sets fit the rear hubs and the longer version on the front. But, it's been a couple of years since I did mine.

#50 siztenboots

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 03:56 PM

the steering arms need the longer bolts

#51 haggi961

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 11:10 PM

Rights its all just about finished as the only things left are 2 ball joints that are not tightening up and I don't know how to get round this problem and also fit my elise toe link and an uprated arb kit now. Im really chuffed how it all looks :D , but Its not something that i really want to be doing on my car again in a hurry thats for sure :lol: as it was an absolute pig of a job with them dam washers in the front wish bones :beat: Here is some pictures of the final products, what do you guys think?

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#52 chris_uk

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 11:21 PM

looks great mate :)

#53 haggi961

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 11:24 PM

Cheers mate and we will have to do yours next :D

#54 DarrylB

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 06:00 AM

Niiiiiiiccceee! I think this will be my winter 2012 task :)

#55 Arno

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 06:46 AM

Rights its all just about finished as the only things left are 2 ball joints that are not tightening up and I don't know how to get round this problem


Cut the nylon locking part from the old nuts you took off the original ones and use these to do the initial tightening so the taper is seated. Now uno this and fit the new nyloc nut that came with the balljoint. Done..

You can also use a large clamp to force the upright onto the taper and get enough friction to stop the shaft rotating when you do up the nyloc.

Several Elise aftermarket suppliers now sell balljoints with allen key openings in the shaft so you can keep it fixed while doing up the nut, although that doesn't help you much now ;)

Bye, Arno.

#56 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 08:07 AM

Gaz Golds AND SuperPro :rolleyes: :lol: Some of the balljoints have a hex cutout in the centre of the shaft so you can use a 5mm Allen Key to hold them whilst you tighten.

#57 chris_uk

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 10:00 AM

Cheers mate and we will have to do yours next :D



Hopefully i will be in my new house after xmas, so i plan on stripping it all down then.. :) you will be required to help! Lol

#58 JG

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 10:20 AM

thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup Painted brake disks are the way forward, must do mine again (although moving to Bells so that could be more of a challenge)

#59 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:11 AM

Gaz Golds AND SuperPro :rolleyes: :lol:

Some of the balljoints have a hex cutout in the centre of the shaft so you can use a 5mm Allen Key to hold them whilst you tighten.


Change the record Jimmy, Nitrons are not to everybody's budget or taste.

#60 AstonVauxhall

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:28 AM

Wishbones et all looks cracking Luke Posted Image

thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup

Painted brake disks are the way forward, must do mine again (although moving to Bells so that could be more of a challenge)


It's cool - you can all kinds of colours of bells with DBA 5000 Posted Image

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