43 replies to this topic

[hutchy]

Driving around when out of nowhere my abs light came on and speedo stopped functioning. good old search tells me the me the usual culprit is the NSR hub and abs sensor wiring. The wires to the sensor look fine, no splits down by the hub. Fuse 22 is fine. So is there a way of testing the hub with a multimeter etc to see if it's actually to blame or is it a wiring fault? Is the hub easily replaced or is it a press it wheel bearing kind of job? As always any help appreciated

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Try a squirt of electrical contact cleaner if the wires look intact. Hub is a bolt on, no press required. Cost £80 ish and includes the sensor. Three big bolts in the back and the bearing pack comes out.

[hutchy]

Put contact cleaner into the fuse box but haven't tried the connector yet cliffie good idea. That's at least a modicum of good news in what otherwise has been a dreadful day that it is easy to fit. Had a quick look on ebay but all the parts places seem to think it's the front hub we use for the speed sensor? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb224ba8a this one claims its the rear but has no photo to check

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Put contact cleaner into the fuse box but haven't tried the connector yet cliffie good idea.
That's at least a modicum of good news in what otherwise has been a dreadful day that it is easy to fit.
Had a quick look on ebay but all the parts places seem to think it's the front hub we use for the speed sensor?
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb224ba8a
this one claims its the rear but has no photo to check

I have a complete s/h hub here for an NA if you want one, make your job easier.

Speedo pick up is from the rear pax side but all bearing packs are the same and the wiring is different in the loom, not the hub. I had a sensor failure and just made a loom up and took the signal for the speedo from my rear drivers side instead.

Edited by Cliffie, 25 October 2011 - 07:12 PM.

[hutchy]

Tried contact cleaner...no avail. Is it different for a tubby? If not shoot me a pm with how much you want I'm sure we can come to an arrangement, thanks again!

[hutchy]

Put contact cleaner into the fuse box but haven't tried the connector yet cliffie good idea.
That's at least a modicum of good news in what otherwise has been a dreadful day that it is easy to fit.
Had a quick look on ebay but all the parts places seem to think it's the front hub we use for the speed sensor?
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb224ba8a
this one claims its the rear but has no photo to check

I have a complete s/h hub here for an NA if you want one, make your job easier.

Speedo pick up is from the rear pax side but all bearing packs are the same and the wiring is different in the loom, not the hub. I had a sensor failure and just made a loom up and took the signal for the speedo from my rear drivers side instead.

So any hub is fine it's just the external wiring that's different for the speedo pick up? I presume that meant you had permanently no abs?

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Put contact cleaner into the fuse box but haven't tried the connector yet cliffie good idea.
That's at least a modicum of good news in what otherwise has been a dreadful day that it is easy to fit.
Had a quick look on ebay but all the parts places seem to think it's the front hub we use for the speed sensor?
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb224ba8a
this one claims its the rear but has no photo to check

I have a complete s/h hub here for an NA if you want one, make your job easier.

Speedo pick up is from the rear pax side but all bearing packs are the same and the wiring is different in the loom, not the hub. I had a sensor failure and just made a loom up and took the signal for the speedo from my rear drivers side instead.

So any hub is fine it's just the external wiring that's different for the speedo pick up? I presume that meant you had permanently no abs?

I never run ABS on mime anyway. Yup, different hub upright between the tubby and the NA.

[hutchy]

Put contact cleaner into the fuse box but haven't tried the connector yet cliffie good idea.
That's at least a modicum of good news in what otherwise has been a dreadful day that it is easy to fit.
Had a quick look on ebay but all the parts places seem to think it's the front hub we use for the speed sensor?
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb224ba8a
this one claims its the rear but has no photo to check

I have a complete s/h hub here for an NA if you want one, make your job easier.

Speedo pick up is from the rear pax side but all bearing packs are the same and the wiring is different in the loom, not the hub. I had a sensor failure and just made a loom up and took the signal for the speedo from my rear drivers side instead.

So any hub is fine it's just the external wiring that's different for the speedo pick up? I presume that meant you had permanently no abs?

I never run ABS on mime anyway. Yup, different hub upright between the tubby and the NA.

LOL the day I've had I knew it would be, would the NA's sensor be able to be transferred over to my hub upright though? How do you get through MOTs with abs light on...friendly tester?
Anyone know is there a definitive way of testing the hub is duff ie resistance across it etc?

Edited by hutchy, 25 October 2011 - 07:35 PM.

[techieboy]

The hubs are the same whether NA or Turbo. It's just the uprights that are slightly different and that's a manufacture date thing, not a tubby/na thing.

[hutchy]

Of course you are right tb I found out the hard way last week my turbo has na hubs... It's not been my month lol

[hutchy]

Ps until I get sorted anyone with a turbo kind enough to tell me what revs 50 and 70 are in 5th and 30 is in 4th... A ticket is all I need!

[Mike (Cliffie)]

The hub pack is the same, the hub upright is different. Not worth stripping an upright and buying a second hand bearing pack in my opinion.

[Zoobeef]

where abouts are you as an opcom will tell you the abs fault code although its likely to just say nsr. Check the resistance with a multimeter of you other 3 and see if that hub is the same. If it is then do a continuity check from the right wire at the abs block to the connector at the nsr hub to see if a wire has broken inside

[hutchy]

Apologies for being slow guys could someone explain the anatomy of this situation to me? as far as I understood it the sensor fits inside the hub. It turns out my tubby has "NA" hubs as far as I can tell, because NA toe links fit it and tubby toe links don't. Am I not looking for a second hand NA hub then ideally? Alternatively could I buy a hub that isn't right and exchange the sensors? Alternatively does that hub I listed above on ebay fit? I'm just a bit confused as to what I actually need to buy! Thanks for the idea zoo beef will try that tomorrow. How does one do a continuity check though? many thanks to all who are helping

[Zoobeef]

The hub contains the bearing, sensor and bit the wheel bolts too. like in the picture in the ebay add and are all the same. This bolts onto the upright with 3 bolt iirc. Think the ebay one is right but didnt people have probs with some aftermarket ones. i cant remember. Use a multimeter and set it to the setting so it beeps when you touch the probes together or the resistance setting so it reads 0 when they're together. That way when you put a probe on either end of what should be the same wire it'll beep if its not broken or read 0 resistance on the wire

[hutchy]

Ah grand, resistance mode I was going to have a try at that anyway, I imagine if it is fubarred it will have 0 resistance but will compared to other side. I'm a bit reluctant to buy aftermarket having bought a pattern MAF which may has well have been for a porsche as it did absolutely nothing. So the three bolts at the back of the hub will release the bearing / sensor and it's just a case of plugging the new one in? thanks again

[Zoobeef]

Its a little backwards with resistance, 0 means that its a complete circuit. an open circiut i.e a broken wire, will have dashes or in the case of my multi meter a 1 on the left of the screen. Easiest way is select resistance and have the probs apart. Whatever the screen reads now means an open circuit. Then put them together, what it reads then will be a complete circuit, mine reads 000. You can think of it as something trying to get through the wires. Touch the probes together and theres nothing stopping it getting round so 000 resistance. Put a 1 ohm resistor between the probes and the screen will read 1.000 as there is resistance but still getting round. With a brake in the circuit the resistance is off the chart as nothings getting through so the meter doesnt give out a proper figure

[hutchy]

My brain isn't in gear at all today lol! I'm sure I would have figured it out getting an infinite number, or one with the probes apart in mid air! Here's hoping its the sensor, I really don't want to start a "find the broken wire" game after splashing out for the sensor

[sford]

If you have a multi meter you can read the pons at the abs ecu end. Not sure off the top of my head but if the meter reads 0 (no resistance) then that is the faulty one. Think you should be reading 1.4 ohms??? Resistance ish on them. All you need to do is unplug the wiring loom from the ecu located at the front drivers side wheel. Simply open the front bonnet and it's the black box with Bosch on it. The plug is on the side of this box and has a slider that helps remove it. The pin out is below. Rear right 9 + 10 Front right 12+ 13 Rear left 22 + 23 Front left 14 + 25 Obviously you know which one is faulty but just be doubley sure that it is a new hub that you need. My abs light is on as the wires coming to the sensor have broken, though they are just old and corroded, making the wires brittle and because of this they have snapped. You can just trim off the section that is brittle and replace it with a new/used gm abs connector pigtail with the correct clip on the end. It's a £10 pound part and a lot easier than replacing a hub to find out that's not the issue. Where are you located. If not too far happy to meet you around the midlands/bham area to have a quick look! Tom

[hutchy]

Thanks for a great post Tom! Unfortunately I'm in Antrim northern Ireland but appreciate the offer. If I'm thinking right then, a reasonable resistance across the hub plus an open circuit across the ecu would point to a wiring issue? Think I'd almost rather put a hub in it that chase down a tiny break somewhere lol!