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A Z20Let Is Reborn (Pic Heavy)


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#101 siztenboots

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 07:44 AM

nice big delivery yesterday , the gasket set and head bolts x2 sets, oil filters x3

Plan B has kicked in, which is to fix engine #1 , as time is now really short to make Le Mans.

So its strip down the head , and inspect the gasket and bottom end, do a cambelt and water pump replace

First thing , intake manifold off , just one tricky bolt not so obvious

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#102 Nev

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:04 PM

Watch that bolt when you srew it back in. On my car it came lose due to vibration, the vacuum box dropped onto the drive shaft and made a hole so I lost all boost !

#103 siztenboots

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 07:37 AM

the stupidly heavy bracket and box is all going to be removed and improved and simplified.

#104 Nev

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:51 AM

Yep - good idea, I removed the black vacuum box completely on mine too. Didn't notice any difference.

#105 MrSimba

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:57 PM

Yep - good idea, I removed the black vacuum box completely on mine too. Didn't notice any difference.


What does the vacuum box do exactly?

#106 siztenboots

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 09:37 AM

it stores vacuum (so when you are on boost and there is none) for the solenoids to switch various ports open/closed, the recirc valve and the fuel carbon filter.

#107 MrSimba

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 10:18 AM

Thanks Steve thumbsup

#108 siztenboots

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 10:23 AM

its a seperate system from the brake servo vacuum, this taps off the left side of the intake manifold on cylinder 4's runner, and you can see the one-way valve on the hose

#109 Nev

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 07:19 PM

Any news on the new engine build Steve ?

#110 siztenboots

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:02 AM

I'm enjoying the summer with the original now fixed one, 300bhp is plenty and I plan to get in plenty of miles on it and on track. Heat management in the engine bay is the first priority I think. The actuator is getting damaged and they are not cheap to keep replacing. Intake manifolds, having had a very close up look at the Klassen on Randy's race car and all the work he has done, and also the EDS one on another VX. I had a good chat with Proalloy at the show about their audi manifold, and the realistic costs and market for a optimised flow plenum albeit with a much smaller alternator that already been done on a VX. It gives the option of mounting it exhaust side, and a dry sump. Certainly more rads are needed.

#111 Duncan VXR

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 12:04 PM

Dave finished his custom exhaust manfold at the weekend for the Garrett install and inlet manifold next which will be side entrance ;) then just needs building up ready for the standalone. Going to be a bit special, plenty of R&D done Then look to do a back to back test on the rollers, possibly then if anyone wants one can provide DG

#112 siztenboots

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 12:19 PM

Mahle markings 86P79 is the number of the piston before any machining takes place. To identify the size of the piston you need to refer to the crown marking's which will have two numbers - the larger is the piston diameter and the smaller prefixed by Sp is the running clearance. The two added together give the finished bore size. For EG 85.94 Sp 0.06 Would give a finished bore size of 86mm. Note the larger number is the piston size BEFORE any coating - as such it is not always possible to verify the size after coating. It should however be noted that all MAHLE pistons are subject to rigorous in process quality checks as well as a final check before shipping and this measurement will always be verified 100% in our factories. 86 = the approximate bore size of the standard size part P = manufacturing type - in this case P is for "gerprest" or forged NOT pressure cast 79 = sequential number of no relevance The full breakdown of the letters in raw part numbers of MAHLE pistons is as follows:- F = Squeeze cast piston (or pressure cast) KB = Ferrotherm piston (part aluminium part steel) L = Solid skirt piston MT = Monotherm piston (one piece forged steel) P = Forged piston V = Hydrothermik piston (cast in steel struts for expansion control)

#113 siztenboots

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:39 AM

Thinking about the 2.2L block and cranks options and a little bit bored yesterday so thought I would have a look at the 70k pistons and bid end bearings and crank condition. What came out was like new, just a tiny bit of carbon on the piston crown edge, but the piston centres totally unmarked. The bores are all immaculate.

 



#114 siztenboots

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:42 AM

also confirmed, impossible to remove pistons and conrods via sump, no clearance due to counterweights

 

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#115 siztenboots

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:46 AM

the timing wheels csk bolts can be removed / checked just the sumps off



#116 siztenboots

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Posted 17 March 2017 - 07:21 PM

unfortunately due to dropbox blocking all public links for customer , all the images are missing

 

but I am going to be resurrecting this reborn project build in a few days with a big power step and a ton of other work going on behind the scenes here at TeamVXRacing

 

to be continued...






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