38 replies to this topic

[Corey]

It's quite sad that it's come to the point where it's getting neglected through the winter but i just have a few questions. How often do you reckon I should start it up and leave it running for the battery/engine freezing etc? Should I put anti-freeze in the water? Will the brake discs/pads be okay stood there or will they need some movement regularly? Either clutch, gearbox or both have pretty much gone so it's not a case of being able to drive it round the block, although its only 1st and 2nd being a prick atm and all other gears seem fine so I may be able to sort something out... I haven't really looked after a car like this before (as in putting it to sleep for the winter etc) so don't really wana muck it up first time and have problems lol, so any pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

your coolant should be made up of anti-freeze anyway.. if its just water then you need to fix that. if its being dry stored your disks and pads will be fine. if its outside and therefore not dry stored then they will need moving to stop them going solid start the car and let if get up to temp once every 2 weeks. a little drive would not go a miss. but if you cant then its not a prob

[ferg]

It's quite sad that it's come to the point where it's getting neglected through the winter but i just have a few questions.

How often do you reckon I should start it up and leave it running for the battery/engine freezing etc?

Should I put anti-freeze in the water?

Will the brake discs/pads be okay stood there or will they need some movement regularly?

Either clutch, gearbox or both have pretty much gone so it's not a case of being able to drive it round the block, although its only 1st and 2nd being a prick atm and all other gears seem fine so I may be able to sort something out...

I haven't really looked after a car like this before (as in putting it to sleep for the winter etc) so don't really wana muck it up first time and have problems lol, so any pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

I have previously started mine about once a month, and run it until it reached normal tmperature (91C). Not really sure it's a good idea to start it at all though, probably different opinions on that. If you don't move it (or even if you do, but aren't going to drive it), pump up the tyres so they don't get flats on them. 35psi at least would be my guess. Lastly though, hook up a (CTEK) trickle charger, and keep it on all winter.That'll keep the battery from freezing.

Brakes should be OK, as long as they are dry, and it's not damp in your garage.

Anti-freeze should always be used, even in he summer time as it protects the water ways from corrosion, not just frost. 50% mixture is normal if I recall, but the bottle will have a recommendation.

Edited by ferg, 14 November 2011 - 09:16 PM.

[techieboy]

Over-inflate the tyres. Don't use your handbrake. Chock the wheels if you need to make sure it doesn't move.

[ChrisS1]

When you leave the handbrake off and leave it in gear dobt forget to take it out of gear before starting

[2.2_na]

Should I put anti-freeze in the water?

Anti-freeze is an all year round additive. It's not just in there to prevent it from freezing in the winter.

It lowers the freezing point, but it ALSO increases the boiling point of the water, in your cooling system. Check it, and keep it in there in all seasons.

[LazyDonkey]

The best think you can do is take some brave pills and drive it every week, or every other week if possible. Starting it up is fine, but no match for taking it for a sedate run IMHO. Oh and if you leave the alarm on then the battery will be dead within 2 weeks.

[ChrisS1]

Should I put anti-freeze in the water?

Anti-freeze is an all year round additive. It's not just in there to prevent it from freezing in the winter.

It lowers the freezing point, but it ALSO increases the boiling point of the water, in your cooling system. Check it, and keep it in there in all seasons.

As the op just refers to 'water' thought it best to confirm that is antifreeze in the header tank NOT antifreeze in the washer bottle!

[Boombang]

When you run it every few weeks, don't just leave it idling. Highest load on top end components is at idle, don't forget oil will have slowly run off components and will be thick and cold, plus that oil pressure is at it's lowest at idle too. I would start and raise to a steady 2k revs at least until there is some warmth in the oil.

[Corey]

Car is being kept outside  on the drive as I can't find a double garage to rent anywhere /: it's really strange because the waterproof car cover I'm using reeaally doesn't seem to be doing its job. By this I mean today, when I uncovered the car to give it a run I noticed that inside had started to grow mould on the fabric parts of the interior (which is nearly everything) and when I started to drive it, water started coming from the pillars of the windscreen, right in the corners where it meets the dash.  Now correct me if I'm wrong, but this can't be normal can it?! Also the fold up roof seemed to be wet on the drivers side too. My dad reckons most of this is to do with condensation with the cold air outside the car, but surely it wouldn't create all this moisture? So, so far this is on the agenda: - Anti-freeze - A drive once a fortnight to stop brakes from binding and to keep engine moving - Over-inflate the tyres - Leave it in gear and not on handbrake Anything else missing maybe?

[Nev]

The best think you can do is take some brave pills and drive it every week, or every other week if possible. Starting it up is fine, but no match for taking it for a sedate run IMHO.

Oh and if you leave the alarm on then the battery will be dead within 2 weeks.

For a nice change, I find myself agreeing with Lazy above. Take it for a sneaky little drive on a local road when it's quiet if I were you. Just a couple of miles to use the brakes, clutch, engine, gearbox etc.

If you can run a fan heater on one of those mini plug socket timers and install it in the car that would help loads to keep the moisture at bay. Even if it only came on a couple of times at night for 20 mins that would help I think.

Edited by Nev, 15 November 2011 - 06:55 PM.

[2.2_na]

when I uncovered the car to give it a run I noticed that inside had started to grow mould on the fabric parts of the interior

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but this can't be normal can it?!

No mould on / or in mine. But then mine isn't covered.

[Harry Hornet]

Car is being kept outside on the drive as I can't find a double garage to rent anywhere /: it's really strange because the waterproof car cover I'm using reeaally doesn't seem to be doing its job. By this I mean today, when I uncovered the car to give it a run I noticed that inside had started to grow mould on the fabric parts of the interior (which is nearly everything) and when I started to drive it, water started coming from the pillars of the windscreen, right in the corners where it meets the dash.

Mould grows from spores, usually human, clean all fabrics down with very very very diluted bleach to kill, and also leave window open so temp inside and out do not have vast changes, i.e. cause condensation.

Also put a large bowel of rice in the car to soak up the condensation and replace each time

I personally would not put hot fan heater inside, if anything you need a de humidifier but really not worth the hassel.

Also remember when putting cover back on after a run not to cover up exhausts too soon...Ive learnt from mistake and burnt hole in mine

Hope this helps
Harry H

[Hark]

Silica gel?

[ghand]

On the Midland meet I gave out loads of big bags of Silica gel.Thats what you need in a vx over winter. I throw two big bags in,one on the dash and one on the seat.Swap every week with two of the radiator in the house. No damp,works well.

[Hark]

On the Midland meet I gave out loads of big bags of Silica gel.Thats what you need in a vx over winter.

I throw two big bags in,one on the dash and one on the seat.Swap every week with two of the radiator in the house.

No damp,works well.

You were the reason I said it.

[ghand]

On the Midland meet I gave out loads of big bags of Silica gel.Thats what you need in a vx over winter.

I throw two big bags in,one on the dash and one on the seat.Swap every week with two of the radiator in the house.

No damp,works well.

You were the reason I said it.

They are smaller than the ones I use,but a few will do it.The bags I have are bigger,about the size of a bag of suger but I could not get you them.

[Bumblebee]

Car is being kept outside on the drive as I can't find a double garage to rent anywhere /: it's really strange because the waterproof car cover I'm using reeaally doesn't seem to be doing its job. By this I mean today, when I uncovered the car to give it a run I noticed that inside had started to grow mould on the fabric parts of the interior (which is nearly everything) and when I started to drive it, water started coming from the pillars of the windscreen, right in the corners where it meets the dash.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but this can't be normal can it?! Also the fold up roof seemed to be wet on the drivers side too. My dad reckons most of this is to do with condensation with the cold air outside the car, but surely it wouldn't create all this moisture?

So, so far this is on the agenda:
- Anti-freeze
- A drive once a fortnight to stop brakes from binding and to keep engine moving
- Over-inflate the tyres
- Leave it in gear and not on handbrake

Anything else missing maybe?

There not cheap,but really worth the money (outdoor carcoon)I bought one for my vx for winter
http://www.carcoon.co.uk/carcoon.html

[walkes]

Personally would start it once a week. Oil draining to the bottom of the engine will be your worst problem. Engine + no olil = Bad

[14500rpm]

Silica gel?

This. I bought some large silica gel sachets off eBay to leave in my MX-5 which is off the road, so far they seem to be doing a good job.