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Oil Filter Housing Removal / Delete / Relocate Options?


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#1 Bootdog

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Posted 27 June 2012 - 11:26 PM

I know this has been covered a load of times already, but couldn't find any proper answers in a search: I've just made it home after having to fix the oil filter housing again. This is the 3rd or fourth time that I've had to fix a major oil leak on the housing, and one of these days, it won't be just a leak that I'll have to fix... Are there any options other than these: 1) tighten the f**k out of the top cap with a square socket drive or 32mm ring spanner 2) get hold of the KM-6150 tool and tighten the f**k out of the cooler adapter Is there a remote filter arrangement that goes in with the supercharger conversion? rant

#2 The Batman

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 02:02 AM

I take it you have replaced the gaskets and it still leaks? If so get some Vocky splodge :ninja:

#3 FLD

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:59 AM

There are options. My first port of call would be to tighten the adaptor ring with the proper tool. If you really want rid of it there is an adaptor available from the US. I've never seen one used. The other option would be the one used in the build book where you cut off the filter housing, weld on some fittings and use a remote filter head. The first would be my favourite!

#4 siztenboots

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:13 AM

the porsche has the same paper filter push on , retained outer casing. Having done an oil change a few weekends back I was concerned that I might get similar problems, but the design seems idiot proof, new rubber seal ring supplied with paper cartridge. Tighten to 25Nm

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#5 techieboy

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:18 AM

The oil filter setup works a treat on the Vectra/Astra Z22SE's with their plastic caps, like the Porsche. What causes the problem for us is the adaptor for the oil cooler that fits into the housing and the sandwich plate that sits on top of the regular filter housing. Without either of those, it would be fine. :angry:

#6 Bootdog

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 09:15 AM

Yes, I replaced both metal gaskets with new ones. Still leaking. I've never been able to split the cap from the top housing, so it might also be the rubber o-ring at this stage.

#7 FLD

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 09:27 AM

The other option is to machine the housing to take the saab type oil cooler. No adaptor plate!

#8 2-20

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:09 PM

You can buy the tool from TAT
http://www.tat-dlc.c...king-tools.html

#9 techieboy

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:14 PM

You can buy the tool from TAT
http://www.tat-dlc.c...king-tools.html


JG? JG? Where are you? You need these in your life and need to sort out a group-buy, sharpish. :D

#10 Mangham54

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:23 PM

2yrs too late for me... Yet again Tatonspeedy gets the job done.

#11 Kieran McC

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:25 PM

Yes, I replaced both metal gaskets with new ones. Still leaking.

I've never been able to split the cap from the top housing, so it might also be the rubber o-ring at this stage.


Have you nipped the gasket when you did it up? I had the same problem first time I changed mine , I put a replacment gasket on it cured the leak.

#12 Mangham54

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:27 PM

It really is easy to feck a new gasket due to the access issues and that they easily move from where they should sit whilst tightening up the cap.

#13 Kieran McC

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:33 PM

Yes, I replaced both metal gaskets with new ones. Still leaking.

I've never been able to split the cap from the top housing, so it might also be the rubber o-ring at this stage.


I have a couple of hinged c spanners they worked on mine .Hold in a vice tap it with a nylon punch another option

#14 The Batman

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:35 PM

its actually alot easier doing it in on a sc'd car than a NA

#15 Bootdog

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 06:36 PM

It really is easy to feck a new gasket due to the access issues and that they easily move from where they should sit whilst tightening up the cap.


Yes, I did this the first time I changed the oil myself. Spilled out most of the oil during the test drive.
I managed it OK the second time, using new metal seals.
3rd time, it wept a bit, but I couldn't tighten it any more.

I'm going to order the tools, and if that doesn't work, I might try the machine-head route.

#16 The Batman

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 06:49 PM

pretty extreme, no offence but i imagine you are doing it incorrectly as it works fine with everyone else try putting some vocky splodge round the seals to aid the gaskets..

#17 vocky

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:01 PM

I use Loctite 5910 Premium Black sealant available from Halfords http://www.halfords....source=shopping

Then coat both sides of the metal seals, finally tighten the filter assembly and job done

#18 PaulCP

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:02 PM


You can buy the tool from TAT
http://www.tat-dlc.c...king-tools.html


JG? JG? Where are you? You need these in your life and need to sort out a group-buy, sharpish. :D


Agreed, come on JG how come you missed this!

#19 Anarchy

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:09 PM

Get the tool, you could easily resell it on or become very popular by lending it out.

Edited by Anarchy, 28 June 2012 - 07:09 PM.


#20 Bootdog

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 10:13 PM

Tool ordered. Thank god vocky cleared up the splodge.




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