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Strengthened Upright / Hub Carrier Bolts


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#1 smiley

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:46 PM

About to put in the 10.9's, and have a few questions. - Will the shims fall out, if i replace them one by one? - How much torque do i apply? - Do i locktite them in?

Edited by smiley, 24 August 2012 - 02:55 PM.


#2 techieboy

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:49 PM

No. 68Nm from memory. Yes, Lotus specify Permabond A130 but I'm sure Loctite do an equivalent. Remember to clean out the existing threads in the upright by running a tap through it.

#3 smiley

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:55 PM

Thanks. Can a mod fix the title to proper english?

#4 MrGman

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 04:36 PM

I've seen a lot about these bolts being changed from 8.8 to 10.9, has there been any issues or was it done as a precautionary measure? A picture of which bolts they are would be nice while you're doing it. I've only had my VX for a few weeks but am planning a bit of a suspension refreshment as it's still on the original bushes which are making a few squeaks and knocks and it'll also give me a chance to sort the wishbones as they are covered in surface rust which looks horrible!

#5 smiley

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 07:19 PM

It is advised as a yearly change for semislick drivers. (together with upgrading the toe links) Not to sure about "normal" tyres.

#6 mcewanslager

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 10:26 PM

Combine it with a geo for less hassle. If a geo is on the to do list.

#7 Whiteboy

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Posted 25 August 2012 - 07:31 AM

I've seen a lot about these bolts being changed from 8.8 to 10.9, has there been any issues or was it done as a precautionary measure?

A picture of which bolts they are would be nice while you're doing it.

I've only had my VX for a few weeks but am planning a bit of a suspension refreshment as it's still on the original bushes which are making a few squeaks and knocks and it'll also give me a chance to sort the wishbones as they are covered in surface rust which looks horrible!


There have been alot of failures and for the price to do the hub carrier bolts and toe links, I would change them every 2 years.

Steve

#8 MrGman

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Posted 25 August 2012 - 09:20 AM

I'll get them changed then, These are the ones aren't they? http://www.mangomoto...p?id_product=15 The toe links are also on the list of jobs to do.

#9 westie

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Posted 25 August 2012 - 05:58 PM

About to put in the 10.9's, and have a few questions.

- Will the shims fall out, if i replace them one by one?
- How much torque do i apply?
- Do i locktite them in?



I think you mean the steering arm allen key bolts that bolt into the top of the hub carrier ? the hub carrier bolts are the 3 bolts that retain the bearing and they are the ones that have to be thread locked.
The shims will not fall out if you renew each bolt separately.
45nm in the tis.
Locktite not required for these.

Edited by westie, 25 August 2012 - 05:58 PM.


#10 westie

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 09:39 AM

Having just done this job this morning,when taking the steering arm bolts out there was some thread lock on them,so I have put some on.I did check the TIS and could not find if it was required,but on closer inspection it was used.

#11 techieboy

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 10:12 AM

45nm in the tis.
Locktite not required for these.


We're talking about the upgraded 10.9 bolts, which require more torque than listed in TIS and also, as you've found, need some form of threadlock.

#12 smiley

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 07:05 PM

Gave it a try this evening, but no luck due to very limited access. What's the trick here? Disconnect track rod and swivel or something?

#13 Arno

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 07:42 AM

Remove shock absorber. Then there's plenty room if you use a torque wrench that's not too long. Bye, Arno.

#14 smiley

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:07 AM

Could get good access to most rear bolt on rear wheel. It did not cave a mm, and i'm worried i'll snap it. It's the oem one that has been om there for 12 years. Maybe i'm getting old, being beaten by 68nm.

#15 techieboy

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:12 AM

It'll only be 45nm on the OEM 8.8 bolts. It's the concrete threadlock they use which makes it fun. :lol:

#16 Duncan VXR

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:13 AM

No. 68Nm from memory. Yes, Lotus specify Permabond A130 but I'm sure Loctite do an equivalent.

Remember to clean out the existing threads in the upright by running a tap through it.


:yeahthat:

Def worth the trouble of cleaning it all and run a tap down it before bolting in the new ones thumbsup last set I fitted were from mangomotorsport and spot on. I just use the mild blue loctite

DG

#17 Rosssco

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 12:05 PM

Definately clean out the threads - on fitting mine recently, I managed to shear off one of the 10.9 bolts due to the force it required to get the bolt into position :blush: This is not helped by the fact that the Mango bolts are slightly longer. Good because it gives more thread engagement, bad because the previously unused threaded section will probably be in poor condition, and make it difficult to install.

#18 smiley

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 07:53 PM

It's the concrete threadlock they use which makes it fun. :lol:


So brute force?
Worst case it snaps/rounds off and both the upright and hub are fooked?

#19 RobNA

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:36 PM


It's the concrete threadlock they use which makes it fun. :lol:


So brute force?
Worst case it snaps/rounds off and both the upright and hub are fooked?


Use a hot air gun to loosen the locktight thumbsup

#20 Rosssco

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 10:18 PM

FYI, mine came out fine (once I made sure the Allen key socket was fully into the bolt - needed to tap mine in with a hammer). It snapped trying to drive it in through the crappy, never-used threaded section... At least I could get to it with a drill by removing the brake disc..




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