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...and I Was Just Thinking How Reliable It's Been


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#1 KurtVerbose

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 11:51 AM

Driving along it cut out. It only reved a bit with the throttle then cut out completely. Turns over fine on the starter but nothing firing. Any suggestions what to check while I'm waiting for the tow truck?

#2 J4EY D

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 12:55 PM

Could it be a faulty/temperamental ECU? It just seems that everything else has been checked :unsure: Then again i cant be right twice in one day, so it probably isn't that.

#3 CocoPops

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 12:58 PM

Loom of Doom!

#4 KurtVerbose

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:41 PM

Well, he came along and gave these two wires a wangle and then it started fine.

Posted Image

The yellow warning light was on for a little while but went out the next start.

He told me I needed to replace the '#german technical thing I couldn't understand#'. Anyone know what that might be?

#5 Whiteboy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:45 PM

Are you sure it is not just water in the coil pack? Steve

#6 KurtVerbose

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:55 PM

I thought turbo's didn't have coil pack issues?

#7 techieboy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 02:57 PM

NA's don't. Turbo's do. As a rule.

#8 Whiteboy

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 07:49 PM

Undo the coil pack and check to see if there is water or rust marks on the coil pack. You might be lucky, just drying it out. Steve

#9 Nev

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:55 PM

Dry contacts would be my best bet, knowing how dry the air in the mountains can become. Detach/unplug all viewable electrical plugs/sockets and spray with WD40 or even better put a big blob of grease into every socket to repel water. I suffered from a dried out electrical connection on my MAF the other week, sorted with a squirt of WD40.

#10 KurtVerbose

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 07:49 PM

Well it happened again and it was a colleague of the breakdown guy who sorted it out last time (yes, it was within 300 meters of the last breakdown) who came over. He told me off for not replacing the bad part like the previous guy had told me to. But I told him I thought he said it was just a dodgy connection - my German is krap. He wrote it down for me as 'nockenwellensensor' which is camshaft position sensor, but it'll run without that and from his pointing by the side of the block I think he means the crankshaft position senson. I shall order a new one tomorrow. Maybe the camshaft position sensor also just to be on the safe side.

#11 Claws

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 07:58 PM

I had that very issue on an X12XE, even down to the similar areas the engine would cut out. Started fine from cold, but after about 15-20mins it would cut out and not start, wouldn't even attempt to fire. Was okay if left for about 10mins after cutting out

Edited by Claws, 08 January 2013 - 07:59 PM.


#12 christhegasman

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:02 PM

And I also had the same on the other halfs alfa Start cold run ok then sometimes cut out But once stopped it wouldn't start for an hour or so Crank sensor sorted things

#13 KurtVerbose

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 10:38 PM

Replaced the crank position sensor - still won't start. Now thinking of looking at the coil pack and 'loom of doom'. Think I need a code reader.

#14 KurtVerbose

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 10:50 PM

Wondering if it's this, although it was my understanding the alternator was changed shortly before I bought it in 2010.

Just been checking some more and actually there have been a few with the same symptoms when the alternator died - dash lights come on, engine cuts out, won't restart

Does the alternator light come on when the ignition is switched on ?



#15 mark moyz

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 09:58 AM

Can you check the power going in the coilpack with a multimeter, i did this with lights on, radio on and heater. I was told by a mechanic that if the power read 12.7volts with all this switched on then the alternator was fine. Doing this gave me a new EML.

#16 KurtVerbose

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 10:10 AM

Mark - the engine won't start.

#17 turbobob

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 10:33 AM

Your engine should start if you have a fully charged battery even if the alternator is dead.

#18 mark moyz

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 11:17 AM

Have you tested the plugs and coilpack to see if they are in working order ?

#19 KurtVerbose

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 11:45 AM

Your engine should start if you have a fully charged battery even if the alternator is dead.


That's what I thought until I read Vocky's post on another thread - describing my exact same symtoms. The battery is fully charged.

Have you tested the plugs and coilpack to see if they are in working order ?


I've not tested them yet - but yes, it's probably a good avenue to start investigating.

#20 Bargi

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:21 PM

A long shot but easy to check, but maybe the fuel cutoff switch?




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