Fitting Speakers In Vents (3.5" Speakers)
#1
Posted 02 March 2013 - 12:29 PM
So here's how to go about it.
To begin with, you'll need the following:
A pair of 3.5" speakers, I have personal experience with the following:
In-Phase 3.5" - approx. £25 for a pair, come with cabling and oversized grills which can be put down to go in the vent hole.
Rockford Fosgate 3.5" - approx. £50 - I bought this as I thought I had blown the above, it turns out it was a loose connection. No not come with cabling or grills
2 x Speaker Grill (if don't come with speakers) - get something larger than 3.5" as it will be cut down.
ISO 8 headunit terminals - whole unit is available here: http://www.polevolt....Connectors.html (you want the brown one)
Plywood
Tigerseal
Coping saw/drill with hole cutter
First thing is to add the two new wires for the front speakers to the ISO headunit connector - pin outs are detailed here: http://pinoutsguide....so_pinout.shtml There will be four gaps on the original wiring loom (for NA, I assume the turbo connects the optional front speakers here) in pins B3, 4, 5 and 6. Plug the new wires in following the layout detailed on the link. I found I had to cut off the whole connector and use the new one as the new terminals didn't fit into the old connector.
Run these cables to appoximately where you think the outer vents are.
Next take the ducting off the bottom of the dash (many crosshead screws) and cut the outer ducts off. Block the vents off with plywood cut to size. Bond with tigerseal and screw ducting back in place.
Next separate the two sections of the outer vent. This is a case of pushing the tabs holding the part that rotates in place. You want to keep the outer surround in place, as this will form part of the speaker grille.
Cut plywood disks with an inner cutout the same size as the speaker, and about a 1 inch diameter:
Cut into the foam around the outer vents so that the foam is level with the outer section of the vent. Bond the plywood in place.
Now mount the speakers to this.
All done!
#2
Posted 02 March 2013 - 12:37 PM
Edited by Hark, 02 March 2013 - 12:40 PM.
#3
Posted 02 March 2013 - 12:44 PM
#4
Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:44 PM
#5
Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:54 PM
#6
Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:03 PM
#7
Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:04 PM
17cm diameter.
I don't have my dash at the moment, still with Dave.
#8
Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:09 PM
#9
Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:12 PM
#10
Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:25 PM
#11
Posted 02 March 2013 - 07:01 PM
#12
Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:50 PM
It's nice to see your VX with a centre console on, Tom ;)/>
Ha, I've had it in for at least a week now....
.. I'm taking it out again soon.
#13
Posted 17 March 2013 - 01:18 PM
Did mine few weeks ago but to me it doesn't seem loads better, maybe i set them up wrong Looks good though
#14
Posted 17 March 2013 - 01:56 PM
Did mine few weeks ago but to me it doesn't seem loads better, maybe i set them up wrong :huh:/> Looks good though
You'll need to play around with the fader settings on your headunit to make the most of it.
#15
Posted 17 March 2013 - 02:14 PM
I did it myself, it's not amazing close up. Would love to give it another go or to convince someone who knows what they're doing to make one.
What's the yellow thing behind the footrest?
#16
Posted 17 March 2013 - 02:37 PM
#17
Posted 17 March 2013 - 06:26 PM
#18
Posted 17 March 2013 - 09:52 PM
#19
Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:17 PM
#20
Posted 27 January 2015 - 03:30 PM
I've had a couple of people ask me how I did this:
So here's how to go about it.
To begin with, you'll need the following:
A pair of 3.5" speakers, I have personal experience with the following:
In-Phase 3.5" - approx. £25 for a pair, come with cabling and oversized grills which can be put down to go in the vent hole.
Rockford Fosgate 3.5" - approx. £50 - I bought this as I thought I had blown the above, it turns out it was a loose connection. No not come with cabling or grills
2 x Speaker Grill (if don't come with speakers) - get something larger than 3.5" as it will be cut down.
ISO 8 headunit terminals - whole unit is available here: http://www.polevolt....Connectors.html (you want the brown one)
Plywood
Tigerseal
Coping saw/drill with hole cutter
First thing is to add the two new wires for the front speakers to the ISO headunit connector - pin outs are detailed here: http://pinoutsguide....so_pinout.shtml There will be four gaps on the original wiring loom (for NA, I assume the turbo connects the optional front speakers here) in pins B3, 4, 5 and 6. Plug the new wires in following the layout detailed on the link. I found I had to cut off the whole connector and use the new one as the new terminals didn't fit into the old connector.
Run these cables to appoximately where you think the outer vents are.
Next take the ducting off the bottom of the dash (many crosshead screws) and cut the outer ducts off. Block the vents off with plywood cut to size. Bond with tigerseal and screw ducting back in place.
Next separate the two sections of the outer vent. This is a case of pushing the tabs holding the part that rotates in place. You want to keep the outer surround in place, as this will form part of the speaker grille.
Cut plywood disks with an inner cutout the same size as the speaker, and about a 1 inch diameter:
Cut into the foam around the outer vents so that the foam is level with the outer section of the vent. Bond the plywood in place.
Now mount the speakers to this.
All done!
One question, fezzasus - Since you mount the speakers from the inside of the dash, is there anything stopping you from using 4" speakers instead of 3.5"? I know that the vent hole above the speaker has a smaller diameter than a 4" speaker but with the ply ring it's possible to have clearance for the membrane anyway.
I'm thinking about this since the selection of 4" speakers is bigger but perhaps you just mess up the sound by having a smaller hole diameter than speaker diameter?
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