27 replies to this topic

[TazN]

Any help appreciate on this one.

I had trouble removing the track rod ends (front) from the vx while the rest of the front suspension was on. Seeing as it will be replaced with new and didn't need to go to the powdercoaters I removed everything else and left it attached to get the rest sent of in time.

I'm now coming round to removing the old ones. Bit of a problem is they wont budge. I've had a look but cant find much as it usually revolves around the rear tie rod problems. I've been soaking the nut in wurst roost off ice for 3 nights but there is no movement on them. Attached a pic to help with describing what I'm doing wrong

tadts and tis really aren't all that useful on this ...

[Kieran McC]

I used a electric heat gun on mine worth a try. Are they a reverse thread ? I can't remember

Edited by kieranmcc, 04 April 2013 - 05:45 PM.

[TazN]

Ok just to be clear. I'am right in trying to remove the nut and the 'end' from the thread yes? I know to count the thread showing or measure to get the new one set in roughly the right place, will be going for full geo anyway. Should I be using a spanner on the nut and one on the end or on the flat spot towards the gaitor?

[Phear]

I second heat

[Kieran McC]

If the nut will not move try a nut splitter or just hack saw the locking nut off

[tommobot]

Should I be using a spanner on the nut and one on the end or on the flat spot towards the gaitor?

I think either way may work, but I had one spanner on the nut, and spanner / mole grips on the Track rod end as opposed to the steering rack. Was rather firm, but blowtorch should do the trick for sure...

[TazN]

Sick and tired of hacksawing nuts/bolts off. Also don't want to potentially bugger the thread on the rack (I presume thats the rack?) I will pop into town on Sat and get a heat gun. IF I bought one at the beginning of the project it would of made life a lot easier many times >_<

[hairy]

99% sure normal thread on mine. Big wrench on track rod and mole wrench on track rod end. Awkward due to rod movement so I rested it on an axle stand.

Edited by hairy, 04 April 2013 - 06:59 PM.

[vocky]

you need to wind the nut inwards towards the rack and then remove the ball joint on it's own, don't try and remove both together

[slindborg]

Where in saaaaaafffulk are you? I could come and swear at it if you need

[Spitfire Engineering]

Track rod end and locknut are friction locked together so the mole grips on the track rod and spanner on the nut as mentioned above should work. Clearly a standard RH thread shown in the picture. Once the locknut is free you can use the hex section on the steering rack to remove them both.

[Gedi]

I will pop into town on Sat and get a heat gun. IF I bought one at the beginning of the project it would of made life a lot easier many times >_<

These are great for the price
http://www.amazon.co...cm_cr_pr_sims_t
http://www.amazon.co...bers blow torch

Edited by Gedi, 04 April 2013 - 10:20 PM.

[JamesC]

What size are the lock nuts?

[TazN]

Wow wasnt expecting so much interest in this thread so went back to the shed and fiberglassed some bits.

Vocky - that's what I thought, good to know I'm doing it right.
Slindy - I'm over near Ipswich.
Spitfire - Ah that is what that flat section would be for. Makes sense after sleeping on it.
Gedi - Cheers for those links. Want to pick something up this weekend but if not amazon it is!
James - from memory they are 19mm. TRE was something like 22/23, adjustable gets a tight grip of it.

Ok so I'm out picking up the suspension tomorrow (fingers crossed they re finished) so will be able to pop into Ipswich and buy more tools. Heat guns - would that be as good/better than a small blowtorch? If so what temp does it need to run at to have any effect. I have a choice of 2 that don't cost a fortune given they won't be used again really...

1500W 300/500'C
2000W 350/600'C

[slindborg]

just a shade too far to shout

[anz3001]

we use oxy/acetelene but when the it was hard to get a hold of we went to buildbase and bought a campinggaz blowtorch. It saw us right for the day or two we needed it (about 10 trackings)

[Mangham54]

Brute force will be the winner here. Heat will help... but getting spanner on the nut and one on the track rod (not the track rod end) where the flat bit is will budge if you give it enough heave-ho.

[TazN]

I did give it as much brute force as I could but there was no way it was going to shift any time soon. Think it will need that little bit of help from heat to allow me to get that first bit of movement on it. I find it funny how the castellated 220nm nuts where a sinch comparred to every sub 50nm nut and bolt. 3' breaker was best thing I've bought lol

[JamesC]

If the lock nuts require a 19mm spanner am I right t think they are a standard M12 lock nut?

[Arno]

If the lock nuts require a 19mm spanner am I right t think they are a standard M12 lock nut?

Yes, M12, but metric-fine thread though.

Bye, Arno.