13 replies to this topic

[PHB1969]

Ok - have searched (exercising caution after reading thread what has happened to this site) Seen a thread suggesting NA oil capacity is 5.5 litres, but 0.5 litres remains in the engine when drained, hence only 5 litres are required for an oil change. Is this the correct amount? I have also seen the various threads regarding oil levels on the dipstick and how/when to read the level. Would it be right to assume the dipstick reading can be "ignored" but noted as a starting point after 5 litres (if correct amount) has been put in the engine? Thanks, Paul

[fezzasus]

you can get away with 5 L, sump capacity is about 4 and an extra 0.5 for the filter.

[MartinS]

Sutol will be along soon to answer this! Weve both had our oil overfilled lately so hes done lots of research. 4.75 litres is what I belive your mant to use but not sure if that included the oil filter. Theres a recent post on tyhe site somewhere about it. Martin s

[LY_Scott]

I've always just filled it til it showed max on the dipstick or there abouts, run engine for a couple mins, stop...leave for couple mins then check. Check again after its been out for a run over the following day or so.

[LY_Scott]

But yes, I don't think I've ever used a full 5 litre can.

[Sutol]

Sutol will be along soon to answer this!

Weve both had our oil overfilled lately so hes done lots of research. 4.75 litres is what I belive your mant to use but not sure if that included the oil filter. Theres a recent post on tyhe site somewhere about it.

Martin s

Da dahhh, that includes filter. Each notch on the stick is 175ml. Scott is right though, get the engine up to operating temp, switch off, leave for a few minutes, measure and if it's on the 3rd/4th notch that's about right.

[Jason]

Added this to wiki:

http://vx220.wikispa...gine Aggregates

[JG]

5.25 at my last change on sat. sitting almost perfectly now from 5 readings.

[Nev]

Try using one of those cans of oil changer stuff, it reduces the viscosity of the oil and helps inhibit it from clinging onto internal surfaces. Also to help evacuate more oil, make sure it is at least warm (ideally hotish) when you do the change. HTH clear out the last drops

Edited by Nev, 07 May 2013 - 01:46 AM.

[siztenboots]

also try not to empty most of the hot oil up your arm and driveway when it decides to miss the oil drain pan

[Whiteboy]

Try using one of those cans of oil changer stuff, it reduces the viscosity of the oil and helps inhibit it from clinging onto internal surfaces. Also to help evacuate more oil, make sure it is at least warm (ideally hotish) when you do the change. HTH clear out the last drops

I am amazed you use this, as I would be worried about the turbo's oil seals. I just ted to leave it to drip for hours and then pour a small amount of oil in with the sump plug still removed.

[fezzasus]

Try using one of those cans of oil changer stuff, it reduces the viscosity of the oil and helps inhibit it from clinging onto internal surfaces. Also to help evacuate more oil, make sure it is at least warm (ideally hotish) when you do the change. HTH clear out the last drops

I am amazed you use this, as I would be worried about the turbo's oil seals. I just ted to leave it to drip for hours and then pour a small amount of oil in with the sump plug still removed.

Same. It's a really bad idea to use any oil flush/thinner, it is entirely untested in an engine (as it doesn't need to meet any performance claims) and can cause untold amounts of damage.

Furthermore, the only way to thin an oil is simply to add a thinner solvent to it, this increases the volume. Assuming the engine has the correct amount of oil to start with you are overfilling the oil which if it's then run (as Nev says he does) it can cause massive amounts of damage to the engine.

The fact is both the NA and turbo engines are not an extreme example of engine design. The oil is relatively unstressed and certainly won't degrade to the point where it needs to be flushed. Just drain and refill.

[Nev]

Hmm, maybe I need to re-think. I usually just bung a can of that stuff in and let it idle up to warm, switch off and then drain.

[fezzasus]

Hmm, maybe I need to re-think. I usually just bung a can of that stuff in and let it idle up to warm, switch off and then drain.

If you really want to flush the engine properly I'd just buy twice as much oil as you need, drain the engine, full, then drain and fill.

It's exactly the same practice we use for performance engine testing. It's why we send up to 25l of oil passenger car engine tests with standard sump size.