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#361 SteveA

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:35 AM

Was watching the BTCC last night and Sheddens pole lap was a 1:22 :o



#362 leevx2.2

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:35 AM

Mark will destroy all classes me thinks

#363 Tonie Pettersson

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:47 AM

How much does the cage interfere on the head space?

 

Good luck with the racing thumbsup .


Edited by Tonie Pettersson, 31 August 2016 - 08:49 AM.


#364 Zoobeef

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 07:08 PM

I've tried to get previous years race results by the AFRC website is currently down as its been hacked.

 

Not really noticed it on the drivers side as I have the diagonal roof bar to give the driver more room. I've had Joe as a passenger but I'm not sure how he got on!



#365 Zoobeef

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:37 PM

Today I finished off the electrical cutoff wiring and tested it with the car running.

Stuck on some stickers.

Added some endplates to the sides of my splitter (I was bored)

Mounted a triple countdown timer so u know how long is left in the race and can countdown the pitstop.

 

Also fitted the resistor into the rain light. It drops the voltage to 8.5v though and it's really dim. So took it back out. If it reduces the life of the light, so be it.



#366 Zoobeef

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 12:38 PM

Weighed the car

Posted Image

 

Car alone with about 18 litres of fuel

Posted Image

 

With me and kit

Posted Image



#367 Zoobeef

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 01:29 PM

Just found an inner cv boot split.



#368 SteveA

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 01:42 PM

Fatty :P



#369 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 01:53 PM

i must be a hippo if your calling him fatty 



#370 SteveA

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 02:27 PM

Mine weighed in at 870kg with 70 litres of fuel

 

That is car fuel and trailer :)



#371 Zoobeef

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:11 PM

<p>It's that cage, bloody heavy!</p>

#372 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 07:23 PM

THIS is without me in mine

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#373 Nev

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 03:42 PM

You guys have got light cars, Nipper is 955 Kg with 1/3 tank of fuel :(



#374 Zoobeef

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Posted 16 December 2016 - 05:36 PM

So, the inner boot was split.  Got a second hand shafts and split the outer boot on that on the first trackday.

 

Ordered an OEM inner boot and aftermarket outer. Fitted the OEM inner to the shafts so nwe'd to put that on and then sort the spare shafts.

 

Finally decided to stop using the cheapest fully syn oil I can find and ordered some Shell Helix Ultra 5-40. It's the same stuff I use in the noble so will save me space in the garage.

Also got some more RBF 660 to refresh that over Christmas.

 

Ordered 2m of ducting to cool the brakes. Never had an issue but hopefully will make them last even longer.

 

Need to get an oil filter from vauxhall. Do you reckon I should stick some new fluid in the gearbox? It's been in about 3 years and 30+ track days and 3 races? I used the OEM stuff last time.

 

Also going to check the ride height and geo using fishing wire and engineers ruler rather than parcel string and tape measure :)

Still not bought scales to corner weight it yet.


Edited by Zoobeef, 16 December 2016 - 05:37 PM.


#375 Zoobeef

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 07:21 PM

Oil and fuel filters changed. Pretty sure the fuel filter was the original one so after 90k and 13 years it was probably due a change. I cut it open and other than being dark coloured I couldn't see anything wrong with it. Not sure if it was effecting my fuel pressure.

 

Checked the front and rear toe and it's still spot on.

 

Used my new easy bleed for the brake fluid. That makes life a little easier.

 

Still waiting on the brake ducting to do that but that's it for now.



#376 The Batman

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 07:30 PM

genuine gearbox oil is cheap so i would probably chuck it in after 30+ trackdays :lol:

 

when are you coming down to fit my cv boots :D



#377 Zoobeef

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:52 PM

Yeah I'll pick some up, especially as I lost a bit when I changed the driveshaft the other week.

 

Went to change the boot and realised the otherone isn't split, the grease had escaped past the large clip, maybe there was too much in it. I've tried tightening the clip but I don't have the right tool. 2 screwdrivers and a hammer aren't great.

 

Just take the shaft out to do it. Makes it loads easier.



#378 The Batman

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 09:14 PM

i can only take one shaft out... the other one i have to reposition the engine or remove subframe :lol:

 

problem when shoe-horn a bigger engine in :beat:



#379 fiveoclock

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 09:22 PM

 

 

Went to change the boot and realised the otherone isn't split, the grease had escaped past the large clip, maybe there was too much in it. I've tried tightening the clip but I don't have the right tool. 2 screwdrivers and a hammer aren't great.

I use jubilee clips. Put two together so you've got two worm drives opposite each other, I find if you use one the weight of the one worm drive eventually throws the clip off. Cant use a jubilee on the other end as when the boot sucks itself in and out the worm drive eats into the boot. Best I've found for that end is one of those thick truck zip ties done up as hard as you can with pliers although nothing stops a bit of grease coming out of the passenger side boot at that end.



#380 Zoobeef

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 09:43 PM

I'll take some with me to the next track and see how it goes and stick them on if the normal clip isn't still working.

 

Just ordered some rear caliper refurb kits as I noticed the boot is split on at least one of them. Will probably only remove the piston though after seeing the horror stories about doing anything else.






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