25 replies to this topic

[Chacha]

Hub carrier bolts snapped a couple of days ago and I have used this as an opportunity to do mini suspension refresh.

Today two more bolts snapped, this time exhaust hanger bracket on passenger side.

Any suggestions how to proceed? I am planning to take hub carrier to engineering shop but cant do the same with exhaust mount bolts...

 

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[Captain Vimes]

1- I'd like to suggest that plenty of WD40, a heat gun and a pair of pliers would get them out - but I never find this method works (doesn't hurt to try though).

 

2- I'd probably centre punch the bolt and drill through the middle carefully, starting with a small drill and increasing to one that just leaves a shell of the bolt in the hole. A pair of pliers will then enable you to twist out the remains and clean up the thread with a tap. 

 

3- Final option - if you can get to the back of the mount then just drill them out and put a nut and bolt in.

 

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

Leave some kind of penetrating oil on them for a day or so then get hold of some easy outs and extract them like that.  I've had to do a few cars now and that ways worked for me.  Either that or like vimes says drill them out.  Would love to help but Essex is well far!

 

These bolts are like £15 from Mango guys really should upgrae these if you;re not sure how recently they were done last!

[vocky]

if you don't want to do the hub yourself  you could take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the snapped bolts.

 

The exhaust bolts are a pain with the clam still on, you might end up having to grind the remains of the rusty snapped bolts flat, drill straight through and use a nut and bolt instead.

[FLD]

As said, soak them with penetrating fluid but I'd then clamp on some mole grips as tight as you can get them to turn it.  Thats worked for me in the past.

[tommobot]

If the hub is drivers side rear and can't be fixed, I have 1 knocking about....

[Chacha]

Thanks for the advise! I will try wiht stud extractor and see where it gets me.

tommobot, is the hub carrier later "turbo"-type with tapered tie rod end? mine is a NA but seems has updated hub carriers fitted from factory.

[AMOSS]

_{You can weld a nut on the end of the snapped bolts. With the heat from the welding it might be enough to loosen them as well.}

Edited by AMOSS, 23 September 2013 - 03:26 PM.

[V For Vendetta]

Heat is always your friend with tight nuts.

[TheHood]

  Not a fan of easyouts without getting the bugger glowing first. Trust me you don't want the "fun" of trying to drill out a snapped extractor

[tommobot]

Thanks for the advise! I will try wiht stud extractor and see where it gets me.

tommobot, is the hub carrier later "turbo"-type with tapered tie rod end? mine is a NA but seems has updated hub carriers fitted from factory.

 

I'm not 100% certain... I'd assume that this is a early NA hub that I have, although I had a look at it earlier and the bolt hole for the tie rod was tapered from top to bottom?

[Chacha]

What started as a quick-fix for a couple of snapped bolts has morphed into full-on suspension refresh!

The plan is to replace hubs, balljoints, bushes, bolts and apply Por15 protection.

All of that and geo has to be finished before Spa track day in November.

 

Rear clam came off on Sunday so that I could drill out snapped exhaust mounts.

While there I have heat-wrapped U-bend and downpipe to stop exhaust mount melting.

I have also taken off and separated hubs and Anti-Roll bar.

Unfortunately snapped bolts in the hub carrier could not be removed so I am getting a replacement hub carrier (Thanks to tommobot).

Still have to decided which suspension bushes to go for: Superflex or OEM?

 

[FLD]

I got some superflex from cliffie (mike) and I've been very pleased with them. 

[ghand]

  Not a fan of easyouts without getting the bugger glowing first. Trust me you don't want the "fun" of trying to drill out a snapped extractor

Correct you can't drill the snapped extractor and just end up running off into the softer steel. I just did some very old manifold studs and its best to just drill bigger and bigger till you almost reach the thread. Then they just loosen and the biggest extractor to fit gets them with very little force,some just free off enough for pliers as mentioned earlier You need to file it flat and punch dead centre for drilling, sounds like you have got that tee shirt .

Edited by ghand, 02 October 2013 - 09:25 AM.

[ghand]

I found the freeze spray worked well and wish I had tried it on the snapped ones fist as all the others came out with the spray, may have been coincidence . . .

Edited by ghand, 02 October 2013 - 09:26 AM.

[Chacha]

Work in progress wishbones coming off this weekend for painting. I have found a garage who have managed to remove bolts from hub carrier as well!

[Chacha]

Any tips on how to re-fit driveshaft into gearbox? I have tried to push it in but no success. Do I need to use hammer to tap it in?

[vocky]

hold the hub and sort of slide hammer it back in, works well, but obviously you need the hub removed from the wishbones to do this

[Nev]

With reference to getting the drive shafts into the gearbox again, they have a locating ring on the end which "snaps" into place if you tap(hard) on the sides of the CV joint (taking care not to damage the CV boot).

 

How did you manager to snap your 2 hub carrier bolts? Sounds like you were lucky not to damage the car (or yourself), presumably you weren't going fast.

[Chacha]

Vocky, Nev, thanks for your advise. I will have another go tomorrow morning,

Hub carrier bolts snapped at Brands hatch. Luckily did not hit anything but left nice tire marks on track