11 replies to this topic

[Tony H]

 

 

My water pump (2.2 NA) appears to be slowly leaking coolant. So I want to replace it while the clam is off.

 

Is this something I can realistically do myself?

 

As I see it is roughly like this...

 

take off exhaust heat shield

 

drain the coolant

take off thermostat and pull pipe out water pump (should I change the thermostat too?)

 

Use this to keep the balancer chain correct

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item48565c27b9

 

^^^ there doesn't seem much clearance to the subframe, will the bolts on the pump sprocket cover come out without levering the engine?

 

unbolt the water pump.

 

put new pump in etc.....

 

What are the hardest bit I will struggle with?

[vocky]

thats about it, the pump will come out of the bottom once you remove the sprocket, which is what that tool does.

 

it's a bit fiddly, but otherwise quite easy with the clam off 

Edited by vocky, 30 November 2013 - 12:31 PM.

[rik]

there is 1 long bolt that is fiddly to get out but you can usually doing it by taking the side and front mount off and moving the engine up/down a little with a jack underneath it

also my advice don't bother with the water pump tool, just take the cover off and let the chain drop and re-time it afterwards

I do have the tool and have used it in the past but its very fiddly getting the new pump to go back onto the sprocket due to the tension... if you ask me it's safer and faster just to re-time the chain

 

also depending on how old your chains are could be worthwhile changing them at the same time (sorry to add more stuff )

 

if you do go for the tool method then when you start the engine listen for an odd sounding whine which increases with rpms - this means the balance chain has slipped and is out of time (happened to me)

[Tony H]

I do need to do the chains but I am still summoning the balls to do it. I know it would be more work than doing it at the same time but if I am doing the chains I will be stressed enough don't want to be adding other bits to it.

 

Besides I already ordered the tool.

 

Thanks for the advice

[Tony H]

I did a rehearsal on the saab engine in the living room and it seemed to go okay. I noticed in the TIS it says to put a new seal and grease on the rubber seal of the coolant pipe betwixt thermostat and pump before reinserting. Is this necessary? The gm pump I have bought did not come with a seal.

[fezzasus]

Depends, I'd say there's a good chance it's the seal that's leaking.

[Tony H]

It seems to be leaking out where the square hole is. The seal is not near that.

[vocky]

a little grease will help the alloy pipe slide into the new pump much easier, the seals can normally be re-used.

 

The z22se coolant pumps always leak from the square/oblong 'tell-tale' holes, which means the internal shaft has corroded and caused the graphite seal to collapse, thus they leak  

Edited by vocky, 03 December 2013 - 09:00 AM.

[Tony H]

Vocky do you think it is good idea to bung the top hole where you can see the spindle? Is there a reason these need to be exposed? There was all sorts of detritus in mine, can't see that being good for it.

[Tony H]

I put the new pump in earlier today and everything seems ok

 

Thank you everyone for the advice.

 

 

 

 

For the benefit of future searchers, the two bolts in the image above labelled (2) - the upper one you need to undo the engine mount to get. The lower one you need to undo before you fit the holding tool. The tis guide says after, but I was using the laser branded tool which obstructed the bolt.

[TheHood]

"Fun" job isn't it?

[Tony H]

It wasn't that bad really, given the clam was already off. A little dentist mirror would have been good though to see into the sprocket hatch better.

 

Got to revise for the timing chain now...