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Crankshaft Sensor Re-Learn / Cold Start Problem


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#121 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:09 AM

Just a quick question to chrisPduck did you check the air dump butterfly was fully closed when you took the charger off??

Yes checked and yes fully closed thumbsup

I remember one that had a split hose in the pump unit and almost no fuelpressure due to that.

  He had that twice. :mellow:  (if we're talking about the yelllow winged one)
I hope it's not that as I had the 60L pro alloy tank put in at the same time as the Walbro. This means the inspection hatch wasn't enlarged and means it'll be a pig to change the pump!

Edited by Chris P Duck, 22 August 2014 - 07:10 AM.


#122 vocky

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:43 AM

before you go too far and strip your cars down you should remember that the walbro pump seems to work differently to the OEM pump, fuel pressure seems to be relieved when the pump is switched off unlike the OEM pump with retains it.

 

So you should only check the fuel pressure with the engine running  thumbsup

 

It might be an idea to just get Peter to increase the length of the fuel pump priming cycle  :poke:



#123 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:48 AM

Or push the start button during the end of the prime sequence

#124 FLD

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:52 AM

My walbro retains pressure like the OEM one.

 

My original OEM one failed.  It used to loose pressure fairly quickly and it didn't prime properly.  I used to get just a tiny dribble from the valve.  To get round the priming problem I would turn the ignition on / off a few times to get it properly primed then it would start OK.  Without that it would take ages to start while the pump primed.  When running there was a big squirt of fuel (about 1m) out of the valve, when switched off the pressure was gone.  I changed it to a new OEM (and then walbro) and I get the full jet of fuel even when its been stood for a week or two.



#125 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:05 AM

It might be an idea to just get Peter to increase the length of the fuel pump priming cycle  :poke:

Thanks Vocky. Is this something you can check Pete-r? My cars off the road now until the EV1 injector plugs turn up and I go on holiday for a week tomorrow.

#126 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:07 AM

Or push the start button during the end of the prime sequence

Tried this, no better

#127 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:11 AM

Or push the start button during the end of the prime sequence

Tried this, no better
Worth a try

#128 pete-r

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:29 AM

I'll have a look first at the pipe work to make sure nothing is split, then ask Peter about the prime timings. I don't want to increase it if it's not needed. Surely if it was that then every user. of this pump would be in the same boat?

Edited by pete-r, 22 August 2014 - 08:29 AM.


#129 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:46 AM

Where does the small diameter silicone pipe from the throttle body go? Unlikely it's related but it was stuck between the fuel filler neck and the bulkhead. It was well and truly squashed to the point I thought it was going to snap when I pulled it back through to re-route it. Looks like it goes into the mess that is the fuel vent system but couldn't see where.

#130 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:59 AM

I cut mine back and put a blank on it But I think most do run the fuel vent mess

#131 pete-r

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 09:45 AM

before you go too far and strip your cars down you should remember that the walbro pump seems to work differently to the OEM pump, fuel pressure seems to be relieved when the pump is switched off unlike the OEM pump with retains it.   So you should only check the fuel pressure with the engine running  thumbsup   It might be an idea to just get Peter to increase the length of the fuel pump priming cycle  :poke:

Hi Neil just off the phone to CS they said the pump should be retaining "a lot" of pressure after to switch off, and there should be fuel coming out if the valve on priming too. Suggested I disconnect the water pump fuse to 100% confirm the pump is priming (there's so much noise it's hard to know what's what) and try a new relay so I'll swap for my fog light one. Need to get a tester on it. They also asked if you used the new ribbed tubing when fitting or fitted the old ones. The old ones can perish and crack he said and that might pump fuel back into the tank rather than out to the engine?

Edited by pete-r, 22 August 2014 - 09:47 AM.


#132 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 10:05 AM

Just been out to my car It's got a walbro 255 Pushed the valve before priming and just got puff off air Primed the fuel line then pushed valve and got a puff of fuel out of it for a split second then it stopped I've never had a start problem

#133 pete-r

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 10:33 AM

That sounds right. Interestingly I just went to double check the priming by pulling the relay out. Not looking good some of the blades had a rusty residue on them. Rubbed with paper and swapped for a minty one from the front. Started within 2 or 3 seconds and without the spluttering. Not counting my chickens yet though and I'll have to wait a few hours now to try again....

#134 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 11:11 AM

That sounds right. Interestingly I just went to double check the priming by pulling the relay out. Not looking good some of the blades had a rusty residue on them. Rubbed with paper and swapped for a minty one from the front. Started within 2 or 3 seconds and without the spluttering. Not counting my chickens yet though and I'll have to wait a few hours now to try again....

fingers crossed for you that your's is as simple as that!

 

Seems unlikely that will be everyones problem though!

Whats the butterfly position like with the fresh relay? Worth a log to see if its made any difference from that.

 

Still can't get my head round it, surely a pin rusty enough to cause problems would mean the pump didn't run at all. Can't believe you wouldn'y have noticed that when driving. However I class myself as ignorant at best so will bow down to those with greater knowledge!



#135 pete-r

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 12:30 PM

Here is the relay you can see the white corrosion on it.

I'm not convinced myself to be honest but it definitely started cleaner this morning...

Posted Image

Edited by pete-r, 22 August 2014 - 12:31 PM.


#136 siztenboots

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 12:40 PM

could be battery voltage related whilst cranking , the ignition coils , injectors are all sensitive



#137 pete-r

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 01:55 PM

About 3 hours later just tried again and the car started sweetly. Acid test will be tomorrow morning but I've got everything crossed!

#138 Chris P Duck

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 04:02 PM

Hmmm, could the Walbro pull more current and thus be more influenced by this? Seems like a big coincidence if not... Where's the fuel pump relay? Will be a happy man if it's a simple as that! ETA also have everything crossed for you Pete, let us know! PS any change to fuel rail squirtage?

Edited by Chris P Duck, 22 August 2014 - 04:03 PM.


#139 smiley

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 04:06 PM

Where's the fuel pump relay? Will be a happy man if it's a simple as that!
 

 

In the boot. The grey one.

 

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#140 pete-r

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Posted 23 August 2014 - 10:36 AM

Well I can't believe I'm saying this, but the car started fine again this morning. Maybe 4-5 chugs and it's caught clean, no spluttering into life etc. I'm hoping that is that so thanks for the help everyone, with a bit of luck it's the last I hear of it. Maybe it's worth trying a swap over with the front ones ChrisPD?




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