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Potential Maf Problems - How To Confirm?


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#1 Detta

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 09:03 AM

Hi guys, after a few weeks of frustration and things just feeling a little off, with the assistance of the search feature here and the advice of you kind folk I have tried a number of things, the most recent of which, has seemingly narrowed down the problem component. A little over a week ago, after aforementioned searches, I decided to try to rule out the MAF. Although, I didn't do what, in retrospect, I should have, and simply unplug it. I decided to take it out and inspect the probe, which looked to be in very good condition. Either way, I thought that it would be worth trying to give it a very gentle clean with a delicate alcohol based contact cleaner. I then thought that it would be a good idea to pull the usual fuse for a while to reset the ECU (thinking that it would be faster to forget any incorrect values that a potentially faulty MAF had been providing than re-learn). Once I was sure the MAF was 100% dry, I reassembled and went for a drive (with a friend on his CBR600RR through some incredible twisties!), and, WOW, what a difference! That 'off' feeling that had been bothering me for so long was gone in an instant, convinced that I had fixed it, I was over the moon.

 

Following on from that, over the course of the following week and my commute to work, that 'off' feeling slowly came back, and it was as bad as it was previously before the week was out (e.g. misbehaving on partial throttle and not recirculating properly on occasion - turkey) in addition to this, something that I wasn't aware of until I had felt it running smoothly after the clean, it felt as though the ECU kept reeling the power in (even though boost pressure readings didn't change).

 

I did wonder if perhaps the MAF clean hadn't done anything at all. Could it have simply been that the ECU reset temporarily undid the damage by forgetting a bad calibration, and then as it relearned via potentially bad readings from a faulty MAF, the problem crept back with time?

 

So this time, as per forum suggestions on other posts, I simply yanked the MAF plug without an ECU reset, and, in an instant, the CEL was on, the power was back, it was back to running smoothly and there were no turkeys within earshot! Although my exhaust was popping considerably more on rundown?

 

To me this would suggest that the MAF is the problem. But before I drop a ton on a replacement, is there anything else I can do (as a noob) to confirm this? I understand that with the MAF unplugged the ECU also stops taking readings from other sensors (lambda)? Is there anything else I should rule out first?

 

Many thanks,

 

Damian

 

 

 

p.s. It's a Tubby.



#2 CocoPops

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 09:13 AM

What air filter are you running? I seem to recall many threads about MAF sensors failing with anything other than oem paper filters.

#3 Nev

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 09:46 AM

If you suspect the MAF, then try and get a local owner to swap his working one with your for a day, drive around with it in you car.



#4 spartacus

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 09:59 AM

I can't remember the colour but check the voltage on the output wire, which should increase with engine speed. When mine died, it wasn't showing anything. One wire will be the earth and IIRC there is also a 5V and 12V input on two others.

Edited by spartacus, 12 May 2014 - 10:01 AM.


#5 Detta

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 10:56 AM

I'm using a standard paper filter.

 

It's a nice idea NEV, and yes, the ideal solution would certainly be to borrow one I knew was working! But when I have it a clean the weekend before last, and reset the ECU, I did a lot of driving that weekend, and it wasn't until later in the week that it started misbehaving again. I couldn't in good conscience expect somebody to loan me a working example for a few days +.

 

Spaertacus, that sounds interesting, if it's not to much to ask, could you give me a step by step on how to test this so I can decide if it's within my humble abilities to do so? 

 

Where would I take a reading on the wires, would I have to cut into them? Should I expect to see an increase in voltage when the RPM increases while stationary in neutral?



#6 Nev

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 11:36 AM

Where would I take a reading on the wires, would I have to cut into them? Should I expect to see an increase in voltage when the RPM increases while stationary in neutral?

 

You'd need to splice into the loom near the plug. It's not hard, ive done it myself in the past. The output line is from 0 to 5 volt.

 

Alternatively buy an ODB2 reader that lets you know the grams/sec that the MAF is reading. Even in neutral on your drive as you rev your engine harder the reading should increase (as more air is being drawn in by the engine).



#7 Sc0rian

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 03:19 PM

can be a cheeky and buy one from ECP and then take it back if it doesnt work.. 



#8 spartacus

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 08:49 PM

Check the voltage between pins 3 & 5, it should be approx 1.2V with the engine idling and rise to approx 4V at full throttle.

 

You can back probe the connector, see this for more info: http://www.enduringa...probe-a-sensor/

 

The alternative is a scan tool that shows live data, as Nev says.



#9 Detta

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 09:06 AM

Thanks guys. I'll give probing it a go via back probing a go and report back

 

Judging by what has been said, presumably 3 & 5 are 5v and Ground?



#10 Detta

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 01:34 PM

So I finally found the time while at work to attempt some back-probing. It took some fiddling, but I eventually managed to get a reading between pins 3&5.

 

I was getting 1.3v at idle (IRO 1K RPM), which rose to 2.4v @ around 4K RPM. I didn't want to take the revs any higher when stationary. How do these readings sound? I'm getting a little worried that I might actually have a healthy MAF which means continuing to look elsewhere for the problem.  :huh:


Edited by Detta, 15 May 2014 - 01:37 PM.


#11 Nev

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 06:54 PM

I was getting 1.3v at idle (IRO 1K RPM), which rose to 2.4v @ around 4K RPM. I didn't want to take the revs any higher when stationary. How do these readings sound? I'm getting a little worried that I might actually have a healthy MAF which means continuing to look elsewhere for the problem.  :huh:

 

That sounds approx. right. SizTenBoots is more familiar with the normal MAF readings however, drop him a PM.

 

Having said that, I think if I were in your boots, I'd buy a proper OEM manufacturer (ie not random eBay) MAF and swap it out to be sure. £100 has got to be worth it surely, just for peace of mind?  


Edited by Nev, 15 May 2014 - 06:57 PM.


#12 Detta

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:28 PM

Yeah, when I run out of things to check it looks like I'm going to have to Nev. I'm just not sure what else it could be? The fact that things run so smoothly with it unplugged (just rich) would surley rule out any physical leaking or recirculating issues?



#13 Nev

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Posted 16 May 2014 - 05:42 AM

I suppose it could be a loom issue (from the MAF), though I don't think that's likely myself.



#14 spartacus

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Posted 16 May 2014 - 07:04 PM

According to Autodata, sensor output is just over 4V at full throttle so your reading seems a little low. Could be a sign it's on its way out?

Edited by spartacus, 16 May 2014 - 07:05 PM.





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