

Acceleration Pedal Stops Working
#1
Posted 19 May 2014 - 05:56 PM

#2
Posted 19 May 2014 - 06:14 PM
#3
Posted 19 May 2014 - 06:18 PM
#4
Posted 19 May 2014 - 06:24 PM
Think it's an upside down in the footwell job Make sure there's someone else around to 1) Take photos of you & 2) to extract you should you become stuck.
Pic of the pedal:
Edited by badgerade, 19 May 2014 - 06:33 PM.
#5
Posted 19 May 2014 - 06:51 PM
#6
Posted 19 May 2014 - 06:53 PM
#8
Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:11 PM

#9
Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:18 PM
#10
Posted 20 May 2014 - 06:57 AM
Car has recently had a new head installed and started happening after that. Although I don't think this is linked wondered if I can check if anything that might have got dislodged? Any other contacts to clean and where are they located? Any photos that could help please?
that is always the problem when working on an engine, the wiring loom must be moved out of the way to replace the cylinder head and electrical contacts which have been in the same position for many, many years get moved by a tiny amount.
It is not made any better by having the engine exposed to the weather due to the engine covers huge grilles, because corrosion has already taken a hold, so it is not a case of 'if it will happen' but 'when it will happen' to all vx220's .
Loss of throttle pedal is normally either; throttle pedal connection, throttle body connecton, blue and black plugs or ecu plugs.
You need to undo each connection, spray with contact cleaner and then plug back together all the electical sockets mentioned above.
I can also be a faulty throttle pedal, throttle body or ecu.
Edited by vocky, 20 May 2014 - 06:59 AM.
#11
Posted 20 May 2014 - 08:01 AM
Tried to look at the pedal but can't find a connector?
The pedal connector is the bit with the wires coming out. It has a red / maroon slide lock on the plug. You will need to pull out the red slide (a little lever with a small screwdriver may help). Once the slide is out the plug should wiggle off. Check / clean the terminals inside and re-assemble.
The throttle has a latched plug. You will need to push the latch in before wiggling off the plug. Once again, clean all the terminals with contact cleaner and reassemble.
Jack it up and remove pass side rear wheel and arch liner. behind that you'll see a blue and a black plug mounted on the back of the header tank bracket. These are latched again. Press in the latch and wiggle them apart. You can remove the yellow meshes to reveal the termials. Clean them up as before. One other thing that can fail here is the terminal itself. Look at the female terminal, there is a spring part inside. This can become weak and get pushed back. You can pry it back with a pin but this is a temporary fix. Really it needs a new terminal. I can look up the number if need be. When you re-assemble this one make sure it pushes fully home and the plug latch re-engages. It can be tough.
The ECU plugs need the alloy bar removing so you'll need some tamperproof torx bits. Remove the bar. If you lift the metal lock you'll see it slides a plastic lock which holds the plug on the ECU. Take off the plug and clean up as before. Check the pins on the ECU carefully for corrosion.
I would recomend getting an OP-COM. there is a function in the software that lets you see throttle demand at the pedal (ie you can check pedal signal) and it shows you the corresponding output at the throttle body. This should help pin down where the problem is.
#12
Posted 20 May 2014 - 09:10 AM
#13
Posted 20 May 2014 - 09:23 AM
Mine did this when I was running without undertrays on a very wet day.
Disconnected the loom of doom and doused it in WD40. Did the same with the throttle body connector. All good.
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