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What's This? Leaking Coolant...


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#1 simonlpearce

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 03:51 PM

So what is this part and why would it leak coolant and how do I go about stopping it leak coolant?

I'm guessing it thermostat?

Looks like a clam off job to replace it?

Pic from top looking into engine bay at the rear drivers side.

Posted Image

Pic from the side with arch liner removed.
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Edited by simonlpearce, 06 July 2014 - 03:53 PM.


#2 The Batman

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 03:53 PM

That's oil Water pump Worth changing timing chain at same time as you have the old tensioner Pm vocky

Edited by The Batman, 06 July 2014 - 03:53 PM.


#3 simonlpearce

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 04:22 PM

Not sure what you mean by, that's oil? Ok cool water pump sounds reasonably straight forward? Not sure I fancy doing timing chain but will certainly take a look if I have to. I take it clam does need to come off then?

#4 fezzasus

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 05:53 PM

It's just rainwater collecting, it's not leaking.

#5 fezzasus

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 05:53 PM

Also, tensioner has the cuts in the side so it is the upgraded one, however will be coming up to ten years by now anyway m

#6 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 05:57 PM

Dip your finger in it and touch it to your tongue. If you feel nothing then it's rain water. If it's bitter and horrible then it's coolant. (if you die that is not my fault, nor can you sue me for shortening your life.)

#7 simonlpearce

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:02 PM

It's definitely coolant, not rain, it's emptying the tank each time I fill it. Looks like a fcuking nightmare to replace. Need special tools to align things by the look of it, not to mention it would be easier to remove the clam! Think I will chuck it in the garage and figure it out next summer!

#8 The Batman

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:48 PM

I thought the upgraded tensioner had the nipple on it? To change water pump you have to take timing chain off

#9 techieboy

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:52 PM

The upgraded upgraded tensioner has the lump on it. 



#10 simonlpearce

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:54 PM

Yep after reading a TIS guide it seems a complete pig of a job.

#11 vocky

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:08 PM

Yep after reading a TIS guide it seems a complete pig of a job.

it certainly is a barstool of a job, you should try removing the pump from the engine bay with the clam in place  :beat:

 

 

ps: you need to remove both chain kits to replace it on a vx220 


Edited by vocky, 06 July 2014 - 07:08 PM.


#12 simonlpearce

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:17 PM

Going to just chuck it in the lockup for the rest of the summer and figure it out next spring. fcuking typical it happens the day after you book and pay for a holiday! Looks like I'm back to driving rusty BMWs instead, lol.

#13 fezzasus

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:31 PM

I thought the upgraded tensioner had the nipple on it? To change water pump you have to take timing chain off

Two stages; Kit with the larger oil jets had nicks in the side of the tensioner Later the z20let tension was used, that's the one with the nipple on it, difference there was spring loaded vs oil pressure

#14 haggi961

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:42 PM

Anyone know what the reason for the channel in the water pump housing? Can it not be sealed up?

#15 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:53 PM

To tell you the bearings failing.

#16 Arno

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 07:58 AM

it certainly is a barstool of a job, you should try removing the pump from the engine bay with the clam in place  :beat:
 
 
ps: you need to remove both chain kits to replace it on a vx220

If you have the proper locking/fixation tool then you can replace the waterpump without touching the chains.

 

This tool is attached to the chain sprocket on the front of the water pump and fits through/in the opening that's in the chain cover and allows you to keep it in place and undo the bolts.

 

Posted Image

 

http://munstertoolco...xhall-opel.html

 

Once this is in place you can remove the pump itself from the back and replace it.

 

Still a big job as you need to loosen/remove the thermostat housing too to get the ali connecting pipe out, which is not a very 'accessible' job. Also the space between the chain cover and the chassis/subframe is quite cramped so you need short/stubby tools to get the bolts in/out.

 

Bye, Arno.



#17 simonlpearce

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 11:04 AM

Definitely sounds like a job for someone that has done it before then! Might ring around some local places to see what sort of price its going to cost.



#18 Steve.i.am

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 11:49 AM

My pump started leaking recently. Car's at BOT this week to have new pump fitted. Rather them than me.



#19 Mangham54

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 12:11 PM

Surely the best way is to do it the Lotus way... As described by our tour guide, the two piece clam set is to make working on the car easy, by quickly removing the two clam shells.

 

Then I suspect it would be to disconnect the subframe and swing it out to work on.

 

That is if you have the necessary hoist.



#20 TheHood

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 12:19 PM

Even with the clam off getting the sprocket bolts back in is a git.  :angry2:






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