46 replies to this topic

[Mat Jackson]

Plan to do a suspension refurb over the winter. The wishbones and uprights are ok, but do have rust spots and some pitting. So what the recommendations for the way forward. Powder coating.. Looks good, but not sure how it would do in areas of pitting. Plus the uprights might be a bit difficult to do. Hammerite.... easiest option, but paint can chip if or on to thickly. Por15. Great stuff, but finish is not as good as powder coat. Easy to do all parts though. Plate or passivated... I see that you can buy home playing kits and wondered if this would be a reasonable option. At the end of the day, its all hidden and the focus is on protection rather than looks.... So, the debate is open....

[anz3001]

I left mine in deox for a few days and then had them powder coated

[KurtVerbose]

I've thought about this also as mine is due a suspension refurb.

 

I intend to galvanise as it lasts a couple of hundred years and still works with stone chips. I do agree it doesn't look as nice as powder coating, but as you say - it's all hidden. You could always paint over them if that's a big issue.

 

Interested to hear other views.

[Kieran McC]

Powder coating seems to be the prefered method for the whishbones etc.

[KurtVerbose]

Why is that though Kieran?

[Zoobeef]

Because it cost me 4 packs of hobnobs

[Kieran McC]

Why is that though Kieran?

The metal is cleaned shot/ bead blasted, Powder coating is a good hard protective coating if applied properly. Most owners I now seemed to have used this method.

[VX220BOB]

My mate has just stripped his lotus and he is planning in using Por15 as he has used powder coat and hammerite on other cars and found Por15 the best.

[KurtVerbose]

How is galvanising inferior though?

 

Think Zoobeef has hit the nail on the head.

[ukcat]

Just a bit of advice on galvanising - allthough it is very good at protecting from corrossion it is more suited to certain applications and im not sure it is the best process for these components firstly as the parts are imersed into molten zinc (approx 400 deg) you must be carrfull with sealed parts as there is risk of explosion not sure the wishbone tubes would be suitable ! also components must be engineered to allow the zinc to drain away as they are withdrawn from the bath and will usually have holes to allow for this these holes also prevent trapped air when the item is placed in the bath - basically many items that are galvanised have an element of design which takes this into account. another issue is the coating thickness which is relativaly thick (compared to electro plating) and would cause issues with areas like the bush eyes and ball joint eyes and also threaded holes on the uprights sll these areas would require attention afterwards to remove the zinc ! This problem is also found with powder coating however masking the key areas as well as rrmoving any surplus is much easier . Have u considered having them re electro plated as there are usually local companies that will do them pretty cheaply once plated u can also paint or powder coat on top if u want this has the benefit of protecting the areas which are masked off as you still have the plating as opposed to bare metal Hope this helps Cheers Tony

[Kieran McC]

How well would hot zinc spraying holdup ?

[Mopeytitan]

just get them powder coated look good protect the wishbones and fairly cheap.

[KurtVerbose]

Just a bit of advice on galvanising

 

Thanks Tony.  

[haggi961]

Eliseparts are using a now type of poweredcoat/ paint on there wishbones which is suppose to be better and stronger then powerdercoat. They did tell me what it was but ive forgotten. May be worth giving them a bell and find out what it is.

[ukcat]

Not really familiar with hot zinc spray Also just be aware tha allthough powder coat is relatively cheap and looks good it can chip and once chipped it will rust underneath the coating this can sometimes go unnoticed for some time - dont want to scare you as it would take a long long time for a wishbone to rust through but just pointing out that powder can trap and hide corrosion again a good reason for plating first . I have used zinc nickle electroplating it is relatively new process and offers over 5 times the protection of the original plating which is just yellow pasivated zinc Tony

How well would hot zinc spraying holdup ?

[Anarchy]

I am fortunate to have a paint facility at work, I ask them to do it in a 4 coat ISO 12944 C5M paint system normally used for off shore carbon steel, probably overkill but it has lasted 8 years or so and only cost few bags of fish and chips and lottery tickets.  Not easy for everyone but I know local paint shops can paint the same system but not sure what they would charge.

[Arno]

Best procedure usually is:

 

- de-rusting (chemical or electrical)

- zinc plating (either hot-spray or electric/galvanisation)

- topcoat (POR, powdercoat, etc.)

 

That way you get the best result. The original rust will be gone, the zinc layer provides the cathotic protection and the topcoat gives the weathering protection.

 

If the topcoat is chipped then the zinc layer will stop the rust from spreading under the topcoat.

 

It's always a good idea to use some form of rust inhibitor base layer under any paint/powdercoat.

 

If you want to tart it up properly you could also have it shinly nickel-plated after the zinc layer (or tri-nickel plated) and then topcoat it with clear POR15.. Bling!

 

Bye, Arno.

[oblomov]

http://qr.absoluteco...alReadyInfo.pdf

[robin]

powder coating is fine till it gets rust under it and goes all crappy,is a great system but is a paint to remove.

i 2 pack painted my suspension and still looks as new.

 

 

[Pidgeon]

Hammerite is bottom of the pile, well marketed but not that good for the job, chips and lifts easily.

 

Being a pilkey I used POR 15.  It's lifted where it's been disturbed (bolt holes etc) so still not ideal.