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How Big A Job To Change Brake Hoses?


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#1 mscall

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:36 PM

My VX has just failed MOT on a brake hose being cracked, how big a job is it to get them swapped out and how much should I be looking at paying for the parts?

 

Just trying to work out if it's worth getting the garage to do it or if they will want too much (he's getting back to me with a quote)

 

Cheers

 

Matt

 

 

UPDATE: Just sent a quick message to check which one was cracked and he's said it's the one that runs all the way down the car, so now I'm a bit confused as to what part I'd even need

 

Any advice??


Edited by mscall, 09 February 2015 - 09:43 PM.


#2 anz3001

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:41 PM

Not difficult, I'm not sure of the price of OE hoses as I changed to braided. Garage prices tend to be about £40 to £80 per hose. Braided hoses were about £60 iirc. Can be a ball ache to bleed up but it's not difficult really

#3 JG

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:43 PM

rear very easy

 

fronts easy with a bit of patience

 

bleeding is very boring and sometimes troublesome. 



#4 robin

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:44 PM

easy job best way is to fit pipe and let it fill with brake fluid till it starts to drip then fit to caliper and bleed saves pushing lots of air through

caliper and saves a lot messing. just get a tin of brake cleaner to clean callipers after.



#5 mscall

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:45 PM

Not difficult, I'm not sure of the price of OE hoses as I changed to braided. Garage prices tend to be about £40 to £80 per hose. Braided hoses were about £60 iirc. Can be a ball ache to bleed up but it's not difficult really

 

 

rear very easy

 

fronts easy with a bit of patience

 

bleeding is very boring and sometimes troublesome. 

 

 

Thanks guys that's what I thought, just heard back from him that's it 'the one that runs the whole length of the car'. Any ideas what bit he's talking about?

 

Cheers

 

Matt



#6 techieboy

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:46 PM

All bets are off then. That'll be the hard line(s) that runs through the sill.



#7 JG

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:46 PM

uh oh. 

 

Thats somewhat more problematic



#8 mscall

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:47 PM

I'm guessing that that is going to be a far bigger job :(



#9 anz3001

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:48 PM

So it's brake pipe, not hose? They don't 'crack' they corrode. Clarification needed but pipe is far more a ball ache

#10 RabnaKS

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:53 PM

easy job best way is to fit pipe and let it fill with brake fluid till it starts to drip then fit to caliper and bleed saves pushing lots of air through caliper and saves a lot messing. just get a tin of brake cleaner to clean callipers after.

Oh yes, brake cleaner is a must! I had a disagreement about a leaking caliper one MOT many cars ago. When I was younger & keener, I'd do a days work & mess in't garage for hours, I'd stripped the caliper down because it was seized & when I'd put it together assumed the over spill of fluid would dry? Wrong!

#11 robin

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:53 PM

ooh big job. question i have here as no doubt this will be something more and more people will have to change as cars getting older

being there is no way to access the sill and to replace the brake lines and would be a bit of a hit miss job to run a new

brake line down without damaging it,

 

the question i have is can you not just run a braided brake line from abs unit to rear calipers

or is this a mot thing? this would be easier imo as can be covered in clear or coloured plastic sleeve like HEL brake lines do.

 

any thoughts on this?



#12 techieboy

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:55 PM

I had a look a while back and couldn't see anything that said you couldn't use flexi lines the entire way. I guess the cost would be quite obscene though, if you were using braided lines the whole way.



#13 Mopeytitan

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:56 PM

Wouldn't it just be a case of get a length of brake pipe and a pipe bender/ flaring tool and run them the same? Once you get the old one out should be easy to replicate?...

#14 mscall

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:01 PM

well armed with now knowing it's not the braided bit I've searched some old threads and I'm hoping it's just one of the back bits that is gone

 

http://www.speedster...hoses/image.png

 

9 or 10 of that diagram hopefully, i've asked him for a pic but likely it will be tomorrow

 

Will I have to go straight to vauxhall for these parts, and ideas on cost from anyone that has had to do the job?



#15 anz3001

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:11 PM

I've never paid any real attention to how they run but if charge cooler pipe can be ran down the sills I can't see why copper brake pipe can't be

#16 smiley

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:33 PM

9 or 10 of that diagram hopefully, i've asked him for a pic but likely it will be tomorrow

 

Will I have to go straight to vauxhall for these parts, and ideas on cost from anyone that has had to do the job?

 

Listprice is 26 euro each (for 9 and 10 on Z22SE)

Not too bad for vx specific parts must say.



#17 robin

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:34 PM

its that kink at front and through to radiator area that i see as being the problem to run without kinking.

the charge cooler pipes are a lot easier to run but think keeping the copper from getting kinked would be my concern

but I'm sure with patience it can be done.

also isn't brake line cable tied to pipework running down sill?

where as running a braided line would be dead easy to do and no chance of damage or future corrosion.

may give a brake line maker a ring tomorrow and see what they think price would be

 

sorry I'm talking about 7 and 8 have a look in void where side scoop is at lines there too if your doing other bit

 


Edited by robin, 09 February 2015 - 10:36 PM.


#18 techieboy

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:51 PM

also isn't brake line cable tied to pipework running down sill?

 

 

Yup. Wouldn't fancy your chances of getting the replacement line into the clips.....

 

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#19 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 03:39 PM

Depending on exactly where the damage is and if access is available couldn't you just cut out the failed bit with it in situ and then using a double union flare or compression joint splice on a new length? I know introducing a new joint where it is not strictly necessary may be frowned upon but as long as they are fully functional and perfectly safe would it really be much of a compromise given the hassle and cost involved to do it 'properly'?

Edited by -Dab-of-Oppo-, 10 February 2015 - 03:40 PM.


#20 Pidgeon

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 03:50 PM

I've had an exchange with Bolt666 who posted some pics of a neat join at the front of the sill and he used   Sealey Pipe Flaring Tool Kit Part No: AK5063  Product Code: AS-60408

 

[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"]One is on its way from Ebay, due later this week.[/font]






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