24 replies to this topic

[kipper]

Part 1

 

[font="'times new roman';"]Just finished installing the above, and am very pleased with the result. Even under hard acceleration and usage the inlet temperatures never increase to more than 3 deg C above ambient.[/font]

 

[font="'times new roman';"]Used the guide on the forum and instructions with the kit for the majority of the installation. However, made a departure when running and fixing the 22 mm rubber cooling pipes.[/font]

 

[font="'times new roman';"]The mounting of the charge cooler radiator under the main engine radiator, was by four spacers. This produced a gap a around the radiators which could let the cooling air escape and cut down on the efficiency of the system.[/font]

[font="'times new roman';"]Used some left over ‘Builders walling’ insulation from my house extension to stick on and close the gaps.[/font]

 

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[font="'times new roman';"]To make the running of the 22 mm rubber cooling pipes through the drivers side sill easier, I cut a 104 mm hole at either end of the sill with a hole saw, and installed marine grade plastic, bulk head, apertures (these are half a turn to close and have rubber ‘O’ ring seals).  This had many advantages, least not the easy access by hand of the pipes and drilling of the holes in the foam supports, plus easy of access to the worm drive clip at the base of the charge cooler.[/font]

 

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[font="'times new roman';"]Rear one.[/font]

 

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[fezzasus]

I don't get it. If you lift the plastic sill covers, you can guide the pipes up to the top of the front part of the sill without needing to drill any access hatches. 

 

The rear one is particularly unnecessary as the top part of the sill is open so pipes can be easily guided from the top.

[kipper]

I don't get it. If you lift the plastic sill covers, you can guide the pipes up to the top of the front part of the sill without needing to drill any access hatches. 

 

The rear one is particularly unnecessary as the top part of the sill is open so pipes can be easily guided from the top.

Well I got it after contortions, bruised and cut hands!

 

Ever tried getting to the worm drive clip at the bottom of the intercooler with out a four poster, where someone has postioned the screwdriver slot on the opposit side of the gap in the sill?

[CocoPops]

That's not a good look

[kipper]

That's not a good look

[font="'times new roman';"]Under body aesthetics low on the list of priorities, practicality of installation high on the list  [/font]

[fezzasus]

 

I don't get it. If you lift the plastic sill covers, you can guide the pipes up to the top of the front part of the sill without needing to drill any access hatches. 

 

The rear one is particularly unnecessary as the top part of the sill is open so pipes can be easily guided from the top.

Well I got it after contortions, bruised and cut hands!

 

Ever tried getting to the worm drive clip at the bottom of the intercooler with out a four poster, where someone has postioned the screwdriver slot on the opposit side of the gap in the sill?

 

 

Skin heals, fibreglass doesn't

 

Usually worm drives are hex heads, so you can use a ratchet to get to difficult positions.

[kipper]

 

 

I don't get it. If you lift the plastic sill covers, you can guide the pipes up to the top of the front part of the sill without needing to drill any access hatches. 

 

The rear one is particularly unnecessary as the top part of the sill is open so pipes can be easily guided from the top.

Well I got it after contortions, bruised and cut hands!

 

Ever tried getting to the worm drive clip at the bottom of the intercooler with out a four poster, where someone has postioned the screwdriver slot on the opposit side of the gap in the sill?

 

 

Skin heals, fibreglass doesn't

 

Usually worm drives are hex heads, so you can use a ratchet to get to difficult positions.

 

Tried every combination of sockets, screwdrivers UJ's, flexible drives, but still could not engauge the worm drive screw, becauser of the orientration of the clip. Done in a jiffy with the bulk head hole, plus the hole allowed refitting of the bottom mount to the chassis of the charge cooler body and fitting of the inlet hose afterwards a doddle.

The bulk head fixture is probably stronger than the original 2.5 mm  fiberglass!

[CocoPops]

Perhaps if you'd painted them body coloured first? I mean how often are you going to need to access it again?

[kipper]

Perhaps if you'd painted them body coloured first? I mean how often are you going to need to access it again?

I did think of painting them to match the body colour...it can still be done.

 

There is a surprising amount of space in the forward part of the sills, extra luggage space...a couple of pairs of shoes for the wife, and 'some things for the week end Sir'

 

The rubber pipe from the turbo to the base of the charge cooler, rests in part on the chassis which in turn abrades the pipe over a long interval. This has been in the back of my mind  for a while, so if this happens to fail, with the bulk head appearture in place,  the pipe replacement would be made so much easier. Also, if I were to return the car to the standard intercooler at a later date, the whole process would be a lot easier. 

[NickB787]

have you put the clam back on? I know Lee took one of the two fans off think it helps cooling airflow, I will do the same next tine the clam us if. worth a thought

Edited by NickB777, 29 March 2015 - 12:46 PM.

[fezzasus]

have you put the clam back on? I know Lee took one of the two fans off think it helps cooling airflow, I will do the same next tine the clam us if. worth a thought

 

I really don't think it makes a difference. I haven't seen any changes in temperature since fitting my charge cooler. If you calculate the blockage the fans cause, it's pretty minimal.

[kipper]

have you put the clam back on? I know Lee took one of the two fans off think it helps cooling airflow, I will do the same next tine the clam us if. worth a thought

Thanks Nick, I know that Lee left one of his off...but I installed both. Tested the two fans with the engine running before I put the clam back on. They cut in at c. 98 deg C, and were on for about 30 seconds before cutting out again. Was impressed at the amount of  air flow, and hence cooling over the standard one fan.

Running the car on the road, found engine cooling water constant at 85 deg C. So far the coolent temps at rest after a long run, have not caused the fans to kick in....probably know more aftew a track day in the summer.

[NickB787]

just a thought

[Zoobeef]

I think a decent carbon section to cover the hole (like the ones guys put in to allow turning on bigger wheels) would look better.

I think I'm going to use those so I can get my hand in properly to fiberglass my cill hole. (Finally)

[manus]

have you put the clam back on? I know Lee took one of the two fans off think it helps cooling airflow, I will do the same next tine the clam us if. worth a thought

I would leave both fans. Have one run in automatic mode based on engine temp and one through a switch on the dash for slow traffic or pitlane manouvres. Sort of pre-cooling option. The chargecooler could use some fresh air when the engine does not (yet) ask for it....

[Nev]

Why does it matter what it looks like? Nobody will see it when he shoots past.

[smiley]

 

There is a surprising amount of space in the forward part of the sills, extra luggage space...a couple of pairs of shoes for the wife, and 'some things for the week end Sir'

 

 

 

I´m still waiting for the first storage mod to be done in the side sill.

Completely useless, but awesome me thinks.

[Gedi]

That's a very odd solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

I suppose you can always remove the peep holes and fix the holes back up with fibreglass

[kipper]

That's a very odd solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

I suppose you can always remove the peep holes and fix the holes back up with fibreglass

Having read through some of the posts on the forum, regarding the installation, at least one other person has cut out an apperature in the foward part of the sill to ease the process. If I recall it was a square opening which was later filled with the cut out section.

Edited by kipper, 30 March 2015 - 10:56 AM.

[kipper]

Why does it matter what it looks like? Nobody will see it when he shoots past.

Thanks Nev, you would be hard pressed to notice the bulk heads when stationary  and then they just look like large blanking grommets, and on a black car.....well, neigh on invisible!