21 replies to this topic

[dylan390]

Now tell me if I am missing the point here, but I gather old vx220 rear hubs had a 17mm nut (parallel shank) and the later ones a tapered shank (19mm) Why then are my nuts for the outer end of the rear track rods 12mm!!!?? I'm trying to select the correct EP toe link kit but neither mention a 12mm nut? Anyone else found this? Thanks in anticipation

[rueda]

if it's 12mm, then you need the non-tapered version.

Edited by rueda, 19 April 2015 - 11:07 AM.

[Spitfire Engineering]

Now tell me if I am missing the point here, but I gather old vx220 rear hubs had a 17mm nut (parallel shank) and the later ones a tapered shank (19mm) Why then are my nuts for the outer end of the rear track rods 12mm!!!?? I'm trying to select the correct EP toe link kit but neither mention a 12mm nut? Anyone else found this? Thanks in anticipation

 

Something wrong somewhere, do you have a picture?

 

[slindborg]

Is probably came from a post I made saying if you can get a 17 or 19 on it then its a taper.... I couldn't recall the exact size but know it would be one of them and then a much smaller for the parallel ones

[Spitfire Engineering]

Now tell me if I am missing the point here, but I gather old vx220 rear hubs had a 17mm nut (parallel shank) and the later ones a tapered shank (19mm) Why then are my nuts for the outer end of the rear track rods 12mm!!!?? I'm trying to select the correct EP toe link kit but neither mention a 12mm nut? Anyone else found this? Thanks in anticipation

 

What you say it's 12mm? where are you measuring  this? across the flats? across the angle? the diameter of the bolt? 

Normally the across flats is used AF but 12mm would be less that an M8!  not good.

 

Gaz

[dylan390]

Measured A/F. Its crazy. If not clear to any of you then I will whip it off best I can. Only the right thing going back on though!

[slindborg]

Iirc the nut was quite thin for the bolt...

[dylan390]

Checked again. Defo 12mm on both sides. All looks orig, I just think must be earlier parallel shank. Would put PIC on but I really haven't got a clue how. :[

[Spitfire Engineering]

Iirc the nut was quite thin for the bolt...

 

 

With an M10 (the smallest possible OE) that would leave a wall thickness of 1mm, pretty sure that would snap if you tried to torque it fully.

 

For our own toe-link kits we actually make a nut for the inner bearing which is M14 but has a 19.05 AF so all the spanner surfaces are the same size.

 

Could be someone has used a non standard ball joint at some stage?

like to see a photo though, just for the scrapbook  

 

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

Checked again. Defo 12mm on both sides. All looks orig, I just think must be earlier parallel shank. Would put PIC on but I really haven't got a clue how. :[

 

 

Deffo not original

M10 for the earlier recessed uprights.

M12 for the later tapered uprights.

 

[dylan390]

Well I'm gonna stick my neck out and suggest I find it hard to believe it isn't orig. Its a tidy low mile car (35k miles) and they match side to side etc. The nut is thin walled yes. (Reminds me of kaynar self locking nuts) Of course as I say I intend to invest in a sound replacement for all this old stuff. If I ever figure adding pics I will display the evidence.

[VX220BOB]

http://www.seriously.../p1010832_2.jpg http://www.seriously.../1/p1010831.jpg

[dylan390]

Thanks VX220BOB, clearly the smaller of the two, but I'm intrigued now because I see no (visible) taper on the shank?

[slindborg]

That's because the pics are of the inner and outer joint, so not a great deal of help for you Email the pictures you have taken to someone and they can put them on here if you are a techno cabbage

[Spitfire Engineering]

Well I'm gonna stick my neck out and suggest I find it hard to believe it isn't orig. Its a tidy low mile car (35k miles) and they match side to side etc. The nut is thin walled yes. (Reminds me of kaynar self locking nuts) Of course as I say I intend to invest in a sound replacement for all this old stuff. If I ever figure adding pics I will display the evidence.

 

Kaynar nuts keep their strength by the addition of a thick flange at the working end of the nut (i.e where most of the tension forces are applied).

But they were never used as standard fasteners.

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

http://www.seriously.../p1010832_2.jpg http://www.seriously.../1/p1010831.jpg

 

These are both the early M10 recessed type.

Nore the different threads on the same unit, M10 for the upright (black) fixing and M12 for the rod itself. Both nuts shown are M12.

 

[rueda]

[font="arial, sans-serif;"]The stock nut for the non-tapered version is for sure an M10 that is removed with a 12mm spanner, I’ve done it yesterday ![/font]

[font="arial, sans-serif;"]The nut is really small and not a standard one.[/font]

[Spitfire Engineering]

[font="arial, sans-serif;"]The stock nut for the non-tapered version is for sure an M10 that is removed with a 12mm spanner, I’ve done it yesterday ![/font]

[font="arial, sans-serif;"]The nut is really small and not a standard one.[/font]

 

 

Is it flanged?

Pic?

 

ta

[slindborg]

http://www.vx220.org...0_147_55420.jpg

[hairy]

I got one like that