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Wide Band Lambda Sensor

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#1 MartinS

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:39 AM

It seems the general consensus is that at some point I should fit a wide band lambda sensor. My car already has the wiring ready and the middle exhaust section already has a mounting for one (currently blocked off).

Can anyone recommend a simple wide band lambda to buy. I don't require any gauges etc just the senor and easy to fit (live and earth I assume).

 

I intend to just use it to feed extra info to the Dutch software.

 

Links would be much appreciated.

 

Martin S

 



#2 techieboy

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:51 AM

Don't bother with the AEM Inline wideband/controller. I've already gone through two sensors in 800 miles. 

 

I also tried a 14point7 Spartan controller. I sourced a wideband lambda locally to work with it but whilst it works, the numbers the controller outputs look to be totally wrong and offset by a scale of magnitude.

 

Stupid fcuking car. Should have stuck with the Courtenay's map. :beat:



#3 MartinS

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 10:43 AM

I too wish I had not only stuck with that map but an ecotec engine!

 

Martin S

 



#4 slindborg

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:28 AM

Don't bother with the AEM Inline wideband/controller. I've already gone through two sensors in 800 miles. 

 

I also tried a 14point7 Spartan controller. I sourced a wideband lambda locally to work with it but whilst it works, the numbers the controller outputs look to be totally wrong and offset by a scale of magnitude.

 

Stupid fcuking car. Should have stuck with the Courtenay's map. :beat:

 

Is the Spartan one that you can connect to with a laptop and look at what its doing?

I have a really really really old 14point7 controller that you can calibrate the output curves for etc so one can be narrow band and one can be wide and so on



#5 ultimate

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:39 AM

I am using the innovate LC1, LC2 is the newer model. Peter knows the sensor delay time for those. This is important to be set up correct in the software. It is important to use a cooling adapter on our cars to not overheat and damage the sensor. Innovate HBX-1 for example. Since I have this (6 years ago), I never had a damaged sensor in several cars.

#6 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:42 AM

Without the Dial http://www.ebay.co.u...tm/121233237054 With a dial http://www.ebay.co.u...tm/121787446730 If you don't want a dial Martin can you get the one with a blue dial as and I will give you the difference in price I've got a red one bit wanted a blue one 😎

#7 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:43 AM

I also use the lc1/ 2 without any issues

#8 techieboy

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:48 AM

I also have an LC-1 somewhere in the garage but haven't bothered trying it as they've got such a shitty reputation on the interwebs for crappy accuracy. :wacko:

 

It is important to use a cooling adapter on our cars to not overheat and damage the sensor. Innovate HBX-1 for example.

 

Yup, I use one of those. All three sensors I've used have been genuine Bosch ones too.



#9 haggi961

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 12:28 PM

I also have an LC-1 somewhere in the garage but haven't bothered trying it as they've got such a shitty reputation on the interwebs for crappy accuracy. :wacko:  

It is important to use a cooling adapter on our cars to not overheat and damage the sensor. Innovate HBX-1 for example.

  Yup, I use one of those. All three sensors I've used have been genuine Bosch ones too.
What problem where you having with a dead sensor as I'm not sure if mine needs replacing? My afr isn't perfect on cruising speeds and Peter reckons I have a leak somewhere and iv replaced everything that could of cause a leak so wondering if the sensor is dodgy.

#10 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 12:30 PM

i put mine as far away from the collectors as possible but thats easier if you dont have a CAT the instructions does say to position  away from manifold which is not easy unless you go decat



#11 siztenboots

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 12:50 PM

try and get the lsu 4.9 , its far superior to the old lsu 4.2 used by most aftermarket

 

although why you would ever need to go out of range from 0.8 to 1.0 target lambda is a question



#12 slindborg

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 12:55 PM

try and get the lsu 4.9 , its far superior to the old lsu 4.2 used by most aftermarket

 

although why you would ever need to go out of range from 0.8 to 1.0 target lambda is a question

 

to cool the burn to stop the valves falling apart in the exhaust..... nice one lotus.



#13 siztenboots

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 01:03 PM

water meth injection , although this messes the afr



#14 techieboy

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 01:06 PM

My AEM Inline is 4.2 based and both have failed, the Spartan uses a 4.9 and despite using the supplied V->AFR conversions, the AFR seems to read at least 2.0 points out pretty much all of the time, which is even more useless than not having anything at all.

 

I've read Pro's and Con's for 4.2's and 4.9's. 4.9's seem better suited to lean burning engines, which a supercharged Z22SE is never going to be.



#15 techieboy

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 01:37 PM

Is the Spartan one that you can connect to with a laptop and look at what its doing?

I have a really really really old 14point7 controller that you can calibrate the output curves for etc so one can be narrow band and one can be wide and so on

 

 

Nope. At least I don't think so anyway. It's a Spartan2 and all of the electronics are integrated into the plug on the loom. If it worked properly, it would be perfect. Simple wiring that doesn't take an electronics degree like the fussy Innovate LC-1's do and no chav gauge for the car.



#16 TheHood

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 07:00 PM

I've got a Spartan2 I was intending to wire in this weekend, don't think I'll bother now. 😕

#17 techieboy

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 08:42 PM

Give it a try. Did you get your's with the wideband sensor from 14point7? If so, it may well be fine and just the Bosch sensor I got isn't compatible in some weird way.



#18 MartinS

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 07:04 AM

I stupidly had assumed that I would buy a lambda sensor, screw it into the hole, connect up the wire and drive.

Having now read this, I realise its another complicated  pain in the *rse job in amongst all the others, where the results would probably end up just the same and the car would still be worse than it used to be before I spent a gazillion pounds ruining it.

Martin S(eriously fed up with all this)

 

 

 

 

 



#19 Bargi

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 07:10 AM

What did I say :lol:

#20 Kieran McC

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 07:35 AM

It is that's why at present I am not going to fit a AFR wide band .If you are decat there is more space to move the cesor away from the header pipes




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