1266 replies to this topic

[BadCop]

If you ever want to go back to the old engine Z22SE / Z20 /B207 - you can also leave the old X2 and X3 in between.

 

But anyway - if you have driven a direct injection engine in the VX you will never want to go back

 

@Ed:

There is a girdled block at ZZP now for 1999 USD and they make like 600 bhp with the small EFR turbo...

Aand about 700 to 1000 bhp with the big EFR turbo.

 

Or even as a complete girdled shortblock with forged internals for 3965 EUR - with a warranty "898whp without failure"

 

Just telling you if you get used to 350-400 bhp in the future and want to double it 

[Nev]

Just telling you if you get used to 350-400 bhp in the future and want to double it 

 

800 HP in a Lotus chassis?! Crazy talk!

Edited by Nev, 23 August 2019 - 06:51 AM.

[Rosssco]

Yep, 5V Pulse Signal. Frequency = Speed.

It is the same Signal (same wire) that goes to the Dash.

 

On the VX220 it is Pin 11 on X3. A Yellow wire with grey stripe.

 

You can delete X2 and X3 as they often cause trouble because of the poor sealing.

 

Almost all wires (like VSS, the 6 Acc-Pedal wires, supply voltage, etc.) that come from the car harness go to the new A20NFT Connector X1 (blue).

 

So that blue connector becomes the new vehicle harness termination.

 

That means you only disconnect the new X2 (black) and new X3 (grey) from the A20NFT ECU and you can take out the engine.

 

Apart from 3-4 wires which still come from the engine loom.

Those wires I always connect through a small AMP connector like that:

 

 

Thanks for the info. Sort of gives me hope about wiring one of these later GM ECU's (even though I'm crap when it comes to electrics.!)

[BadCop]

 

Just telling you if you get used to 350-400 bhp in the future and want to double it 

 

800 HP in a Lotus chassis?! Crazy talk!

 

 

 

1450 HP

[Nev]

Crikey, I wonder what that's like to drive!

[Aerodynamic]

Lovely work.

Why do you want the vents on the endplates on the rearwing?

 

Whats the weight of the wingplane?

 

Part 3 - drilled and tapped the core endplate supports, and made everything fit together. The core endplate supports I also grooved along the outside with a grinder so the bond with the carbonfibre there is mechanically keyed, and will never rip apart

 

[Doctor Ed]

have a look at this article:
https://www.jmranaly...g-Investigation

I've actually remade the endplates in a plain fashion... whilst my version above looks cool and follows the basic principles of a few things ive read, id be kidding myself if i said it was a 'good design' without it ever seeing a wind tunnel

weight - don't know, i should weigh it one day. its disturbingly light.

Edited by Doctor Ed, 10 November 2019 - 09:50 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

been pretty busy with work lately, not a huge amount to update

firstly, updated glory shot...

[Doctor Ed]

splitter nearly ready for CF/Aramid skinning

[Doctor Ed]

for interest's sake i tried mounding my rear rims/tyres (245/40) onto the front. although not specifically 'widebody' at the front theres about 20mm more per side to play with over stock, allowing the fatter rubber to fit. it does rub on the chassis rail on full lock, so not streetable/legal. but as its literally only at full lock, its definietly trackable. i had a look as the NS2R sizes available, and theres a 235/40. might go with that, should fit nicely. thatll make 265/35/R18 at the back and 235/40/R17 at the front

[Doctor Ed]

forgot to mention, due to the way I wired the park/brake lights, I was getting nervous about full load amperage through the oem loom. Decided Id try some LEDs, being very skeptical that they’d probably be super sh*t. Welll... if youre on the lookout, these are fcuking awesome. At least as bright as the equiv incandescent bulbs they replaced, and importantly the step in brightness between park and brake is blindingly obvious. AA+++ will buy again



https://www.ebay.co.....wSHI5JWzXhzejA

https://www.ebay.co...../372400909670?

this is just 2x 5W equiv park lights. you can imagine how an additional 4x 21W equiv brake lights look

Edited by Doctor Ed, 10 November 2019 - 10:13 PM.

[Arno]

For dual mode P21/5W I'd also suggest looking at OSRAM O-1557R LED bulbs:

 

https://www.osram.nl...at/ZMP_4053099/

 

Bye, Arno.

[Doctor Ed]

Yeah.... except they’re €30 a pair, meaning €120 for 4 lights. Compared to €20. plus the Osram isn’t EU conform, meaning no one in the EU stocks them, leaving you to import them from Russia, China or South Africa

[chris_uk]

cant wait to see this finished.. i think a visit will be in order  

[Aerodynamic]

Have you done a similar simulation with a plane endplate?

 

I thought about 3d print endplates with these gillis, I Think it could look cool/nice.

And ofcourse its not easy if you dont have a windtunnel to really know. But believing  is important.  :-)

 

I mean it wont be a game changer for us amatures but it´s nice to do something different.

 

And that splitter, a real downforce monster.

 

Can you show in steps how you treat your splitter?

 

Br, Per

 

have a look at this article:
https://www.jmranaly...g-Investigation

I've actually remade the endplates in a plain fashion... whilst my version above looks cool and follows the basic principles of a few things ive read, id be kidding myself if i said it was a 'good design' without it ever seeing a wind tunnel

weight - don't know, i should weigh it one day. its disturbingly light.

 

[Doctor Ed]

got a discount voucher for an online tyre shop in my email, so rather than procrastinating about whether 235 tyres on the 9" rims would fit on the front, i got some stupid cheap (80eur/tyre) NSR1's 234/40/R17 and tried them out. its bloody close, but its a bit of a squeeze, and not quite right (yet). full lock has the inside of the tyre kiss the chassis rail. outside of the tyre meanwhile is getting pretty cosy with the wheel arch. there *might*be room for some 5mm spacers, and that may fig things. otherwise ill need to look at putting some steering lock pump stops in

below is a 235 on 9" vs 215 on 7.5"



and the current situation of the 235's mounted up with the front clam




 

[Doctor Ed]

pics of my relatively shitful go at vac bagging layers of CF over the admittedly complex shape that make up my 'splitter-to-crashbox' mounting flange. it worked. its good enough. theres more layers to go over the body and underside of the splitter, plus a dress layer over the leading edge when its all done. fcuk i hate vac bagging stuff though. such a massive fcuk around, and the waste and cost of consumables is enormous





and from the underside. everything lined up and trimmed properly for the first time. very happy here. basically perfectly smooth transition from splitter to aluminium underbody



and heres where the effort went... getting the splitter position and depth optimised which allowed me to incorporate a low-angle venturi right in the middle of the splitter body transitioning into the floor. additionally theres two smaller, larger angle venturi diffusers into the wheel wells

[Aerodynamic]

Looking very good as always.

I made my splitter in the same level as the floor. Not giving the same aerodynamic advantage as placing it lower.

But I can still (barely) go over the speed bumps.

 

So you dress the plywood with carbon fibre? Is the carbon fibre sticking to the wood good? 

Do you use epoxi or polyester resin?

 

BR, Per

[Doctor Ed]

using epoxy resin. much stronger than polyester, and most carbons twills are meant for epoxy anyway. the wood is a very lightweight ply (poplar wood) with a very open grain. it sucks up resin, and consequently the layer of carbon bonds like rock

Edited by Doctor Ed, 27 November 2019 - 04:40 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

using epoxy resin. much stronger than polyester, and most carbons twills are meant for epoxy anyway. the wood is a very lightweight ply (poplar wood) with a very open grain. it sucks up resin, and consequently the layer of carbon bonds like rock

 

 

Do you add the Epoxi with a paintbrush? Do you then place the part in a vacumbag? must you do this or can it air dry?

 

Can you use Epoxi for both carbon and glasfibre?

 

Br, Per