9 replies to this topic

[kingwowns]

Had the clam off to replace rad, now the horn has stopped working!

 

I've found a few posts on the location (see below), but all pic links are broken - the diagram on the TIS is less then useless....

 

Can anyone help with location and common things to check?

 

TIS - http://www.speedster...and Install.pdf

 

Posts - 

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]"First the horn is on the O/S of the car, but the wire connectors are on the wheel arch side with the horn on the other. You can get to them by taking out the head light, then if you look into the crash box section with the hole at the top they are right in there against the nose box. The connectors are a right angle spay type with a rubber caps over them. The top wire is the ( Yellow/Purple ) and the ( Black ) is the bottom, you might find loosening the bottom of the inner wheel-arch a help to get a torch in. The trick is patience and a long thin arm (or a poky stick)."[/color] 

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]"The horn is above the bottom panel to the rear of the front clam beneath the car. It's on the left hand side mounted on an upright bulkhead as you face the car"[/color]

[kingwowns]

Update - Found this from Vocky - 

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]TEST 1 - all you need to do is put your finger on the relay to feel whether it clicks when the horn button is pressed, two person job unless you have extremely long arms [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);][/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);](if the relay clicks the horn button circuit is working, if not try test 2)[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]TEST 2 - pin 85 is the negative pulse from the horn button which activates the horn relay coil - connecting pin 85 to a negative source should make the horn sound[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);](if the horn sounds this will prove that the horn button circuit is faulty)[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]TEST 3 - pin 86 is the relay coil +12v = permanent supply[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);](this proves the relay has +12v to the coil, if it does not have +12v then it's a fusebox / wiring problem)[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]TEST 4 - pin 30 should have +12v = permanent supply[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);](this proves you have +12v for the horn, if it does not have +12v then it's a fusebox / wiring problem)[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]TEST 5 - pin 87 is the +12v supply to the horn - connect pin 87 to pin 30, the horn should sound [/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);](if the horn works this will prove the relay is faulty, if the horn does not work then the loom from the relay to the horn is faulty)[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]next test;[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]does your meter show +12v on pin 87 when the horn button is pressed.[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]this proves everything is fine except the feed to the horn or the negative cable from the horn.[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]I would suspect the negative cable is not connected, so you need to prove the +12v reaches the horn first.[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]next test;[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]connect your meter to the +12v wire at the horn and press the horn button once again.[/color]
[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;background-color:rgb(247,247,247);]if there is power then the negative cable is faulty, if there is no power then the +12v cable from the relay is faulty.[/color]

[H1 HWK]

Hi King, Hope you've still got the clam off the car because it's in a stupid place.......from memory, it's housed in the void next to the drivers headlamp, down about 12" and about 3" right from the headlamp i.e. buried in a non accessible location. I upgraded the horn on mine for a nautilus a few years ago and you can get to the wiring from the backside of the panel which is accessible with the clam on. Good luck.

[navx]

If the clam has been off, it is likely the cables are disconnected. If your relays are clicking, check the cable through the hole in the rad surround.

[mbes2]

Cable goes through the rad housing so might of just popped off

[siztenboots]

or the steering wheel squib has just decided to break is the airbag light on

[kingwowns]

Thanks guys - Yes, took the drivers side headlight out and shone a torch in past the back of the foglight... Two wires with little rubber boots swinging freely! I took the wheel off and could squeeze my hand in between the crashbox and the bottom of the clam, so after 45 mins of swearing and going by touch alone i got both connections back on. Happy days!

[Gopherit]

Kingwowns I don't know how you managed to get your hand in there! I had exactly the same issue yesterday after a clam off (it wasn't me that put it back) and discovered as you did the wires hanging loose. Even with the wheel off and the underside clam bolts removed (other than the M8 going from the crashbox into the clam) no way could I get my hand/arm in far enough.

 

Eventually gave up and resorted to making up 2 extension leads with straight female spade connectors insulated with shrink wrap and fitted them using my ex-OT Spencer-Wells forceps. Not satisfying to do this bodge and obviously the little rubber boots are not in place but I have an MOT on Tuesday so needed to be.  Pics below for others with this prob!

 

 

 

 

[P11 COV]

I have had this issue since the clam was replaced. I just bought  a new horn for £4.99. Now looking at where to mount it.

[kingwowns]

Good photos Gopherit! I guess different cars have different play in the clam. Plus I took all the skin off my forearm! The little rubber boots are over the connections, but still not seated perfectly tbh