18 replies to this topic

[B1RMA]

Ok I sourced the filter and just about everything else but I need a clutch switch can anyone guide me to where I can get one please.

[Nev]

The clutch on a VXT already has a switch. You should update your profile to say which car you have so we know if it is an NA or VXT.

Edited by Nev, 30 June 2016 - 04:51 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

I've just stripped a vxt and have taken the clutch switch and bracket out ... If you really need one, could he convinced to sell it

[B1RMA]

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

[Nev]

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

[B1RMA]

 

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

 

Thanks, so can you 'piggy back' the existing clutch switch to enable it to work with the Racelogic unit?

[Mattias]

 

 

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

 

Thanks, so can you 'piggy back' the existing clutch switch to enable it to work with the Racelogic unit?

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

[B1RMA]

 

 

 

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

 

Thanks, so can you 'piggy back' the existing clutch switch to enable it to work with the Racelogic unit?

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

Thanks for that, my chap said the same thing. Do you know of a switch I can source that you would recommend?

[Nev]

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

 

Could you explain why it could not be tapped into please? Surely it is a contact breaker device?

 

Edited by Nev, 01 July 2016 - 07:18 AM.

[Mattias]

 

 

 

 

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

 

Thanks, so can you 'piggy back' the existing clutch switch to enable it to work with the Racelogic unit?

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

Thanks for that, my chap said the same thing. Do you know of a switch I can source that you would recommend?

 

 

You need something like this: http://www.ebay.co.u...F4AAOSwneRXQzPA

 

I got mine at a mechanical/automation store.

[B1RMA]

 

 

 

 

 

My VX Turbo already has a clutch switch but the guy fitting it didn't think he could interrupt it. Is that wrong?

 

Yes.  

 

Thanks, so can you 'piggy back' the existing clutch switch to enable it to work with the Racelogic unit?

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

Thanks for that, my chap said the same thing. Do you know of a switch I can source that you would recommend?

 

 

You need something like this: http://www.ebay.co.u...F4AAOSwneRXQzPA

 

I got mine at a mechanical/automation store.

 

Thank you ill buy one

[Mattias]

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

 

Could you explain why it could not be tapped into please? Surely it is a contact breaker device?

 

 

 

It has 3 wires: positive, ground and output to ECU so my guess is that it is a sensor type switch that varies voltage from pedal position.

[Exmantaa]

Searched a bit, but is the VX Turbo clutch/brake switch layout so much different than an NA brake switch? (small Ford part on top pedalbox)

Or are those lower clutch & brake switches extra only for the VXT ecu plus the normal (NA) brake light switch on top?

 

Edit; some pics here => http://www.vx220.org...-change/page-37

Edited by Exmantaa, 01 July 2016 - 03:30 PM.

[Nev]

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

 

Could you explain why it could not be tapped into please? Surely it is a contact breaker device?

 

 

 

It has 3 wires: positive, ground and output to ECU so my guess is that it is a sensor type switch that varies voltage from pedal position.

 

 

Ah, so you are guessing.

 

Anyway, the output could be intercepted I am sure, regardless of whether it is binary (on/off) or gradiated.  

[Mattias]

 

 

 

The OEM clutch switch is not a simple on/off switch and I'm quite sure it doesn't work with RLTC. And on an other note it engages quite far down the pedal travel, with an adjustable after market switch you can set it up to engage early  so it works better with flat shift.

 

 

Could you explain why it could not be tapped into please? Surely it is a contact breaker device?

 

 

 

It has 3 wires: positive, ground and output to ECU so my guess is that it is a sensor type switch that varies voltage from pedal position.

 

 

Ah, so you are guessing.

 

Anyway, the output could be intercepted I am sure, regardless of whether it is binary (on/off) or gradiated.  

 

 

I actually bench tested it when I installed my RLTC and determined it was not an on/off switch. And my "guess" is based on that the clutch switch S28 has a sensor symbol on the wiring diagram instead of a switch symbol.

 

 

http://www.speedsterclub.nl/bibliotheek/technische%20documentatie/tis/Wiring%20Diagrams/Drive%20Train%20System/Manual%20Transmission/Circuit%20Diagram/Clutch%20Switch.pdf 

 

The RLTC want either positive 12v or ground signal if I remember correctly.

 

I think I will measure it again if I can find it, but with power connected to it to see what the output is.

[Nev]

Strange that the ECU would want to know how far you have pushed the clutch down. Seems odd to me.

 

[Mattias]

I found it and measured the output:

Disengaged: 1,8volt

Engaged: 12volt

 

I would guess again Probably this is a diagnostic function so the ecu know the switch is working. Hence below statement might throw a fault code:

 

Also tested to add a 10K pull-down resistor between ground and output and then it goes between 0-12v so it might work with the RLTC. I think I tested it without a pull down and it didn't work but it might with a pull-down unless the RLTC need open circuit to disengage.

 

However I would choose an adjustable one anyway to make it react as soon as you start to de-clutch. 

[Nev]

I found it and measured the output:

Disengaged: 1,8volt

Engaged: 12volt

 

So, if the output is binary, all you need to do is convert 1.8 volt to 0 volts. This can be done very easily for a couple of £ circuitry or IC.

 

 

[B1RMA]

My guy has bought one and it's sorted thanks.