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Turbo Flutter


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#1 .Adam.

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 05:32 PM

My car has just started 'fluttering'. Only seems to do it when lifting off when under reasonable boost, and did go away for a bit but has come back! Looking back at previous posts, it sounds like the Recirc valve, or maybe some pipework. Car is booked in to be looked at, but I was just wondering if anyone knew the Vauxhall part number for the valve, or for the repair kit, I'm interested to see the potential costs!



#2 tibby

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 06:15 PM

http://www.google.be...2660392&cad=rjt overhaul (oem) set on ebay (to get an idea)

#3 Duncan VXR

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 06:34 PM

Also check vac pipes to the vac storage box etc on cold side of engine. Along with all pipe to recirc and solenoids If not this recirc next check 😉 DG

#4 P11 COV

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 07:47 PM

I have a Forge Recirc Valve if you wanted. Uprated and good for tuned motors aswell as standard. Much more durable.

 

£122 from Courtenay.

 

Yours for £75 delivered.



#5 scw02102

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 09:03 PM

I've got one of these fitted

 

http://www.courtenay.../prod_1232.html

 

Not sure if it the fix but it built a lot better than the standard recirc valve as its feels`like its made out of paper LOL



#6 .Adam.

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 09:13 PM

Thanks for the replies, I'll see what the garage say, if it is the valve then I might take you up on the offer P11.



#7 SteveA

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 08:52 AM

It will be a boost pipe off, its fairly normal especially when you start tuning. I just tie wrapped mine in place and the problem went away. Don't go spending money on snake oil :)


Edited by SteveA, 29 September 2016 - 08:54 AM.


#8 siztenboots

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 09:49 AM

not a boost, but the vacuum pipe , or vacuum storage box has a leak. echo above about garage won't have a clue , its a haynes one spanner job to find the hissing from leak and rejoin. or the diaphragm in the recirc has split, which is a bit of a pita, the labour cost would justify ease of fitting the piston style valve compared to the original.

#9 Nev

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 10:04 AM

It will be a boost pipe off, its fairly normal especially when you start tuning. I just tie wrapped mine in place and the problem went away. Don't go spending money on snake oil :)

 

Perhaps you made a typo, but the problem isn't related to the boost pipes at all. It will either be a perished/disconnected vacuum pipe, failed solenoid for bypass valve, failed bypass valve or cracked/broken black vacuum box.



#10 SteveA

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

Just the generic term I use for the pipe work that comes off the turbo.

 

Your problem is most probably that the small hose that is connected to the bottom right hand side of the throttle body (as you look at it from the back of the car) has disconnected itself. I've seen it happen loads of times.

 

Notice in this pic below how they have tie wrapped all of the connections.

 

Posted Image

 



#11 siztenboots

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 11:13 AM

or if you have a boost guage , the T piece for that, or the additional pipework is open to atmosphere is your idle also a bit lumpy?

#12 .Adam.

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 01:29 PM

Not that I had noticed. Car seemed to be driving fine, couldn't notice any loss of power, although I was taking it easier due to the noise. I was driving it from Cornwall to Kent, and it did stop doing it for a few hours, but then started back up again.

#13 .Adam.

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Posted 04 October 2016 - 05:05 PM

As predicted, garage couldn't find anything wrong! They apparently have done pressure tests, but couldn't find any faults. Now not sure whether to cut my losses and take it to BOT, or just try changing the valve in the hopes it works. Think I'm leaning more to the BOT option, even though it's not the most convenient.

#14 Duncan VXR

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Posted 04 October 2016 - 05:12 PM

I would review threads on here and with further advice if needed sort yourself. It is very quick and easy to confirm its not vac leak In fact you could just unplug the vac feed from the alternator area and suck / blow to prove if recirc leaking At worst its a recirc change which can be done by feel and from above If you were more local would help out 😊 DG

#15 scw02102

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Posted 04 October 2016 - 05:22 PM

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Recirc Valve wear over time anyway and with extra boost im sure that will only add to the problem[/color]

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Even if you did change the part wont be money wasted as its a job off the list[/color]

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]when you see the build quality of the std part well its like cardboard LOL the upgraded ones are so much better in build anyway[/color]

 



#16 james4563

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 05:16 PM

Sorry to hijack but Ive got a lot of flutter too at mostly low boost and rpm. I just pulled the fpr vac hose off and seemingly I can blow into it seemingly forever. Is that normal or does it suggest something has disconnected? Looking at the picture of it above it all looks connected except I can't see the connection labeled BCS RHS from above. I can't hear the air rushing out anywhere near where I am blowing though. I tried sucking too, same thing seems to just go forever. Someone mentioned on hear if you've got a good enough 'suck' you'd be able to hear the recirc open/close??

#17 .Adam.

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 05:25 PM

Just to update my situation, the garage taking it apart and putting it back together seems to have cured mine(at the moment), so maybe it was just a loose connection somewhere.

Good luck finding your problem, James!



#18 siztenboots

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 05:43 PM

flutter can be , turbo recirc valve , leak from split diaphragm

solenoid fault

vacuum leak



#19 SteveA

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 08:38 PM

James, there are three inlet/outlets on the solenoids and the valve is electrically operated so blowing or sucking makes no difference. You should be able to blow into two of them and have air come out of the other. If you blow the third you should not get air coming out of the others unless the valve is electrically opened.




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