23 replies to this topic

[oz2044]

I'm sure this has been on before but can anyone help please. My drivers seat rocks slightly forwards to backwards. I've tried the star shaped bolts and they seem as tight as they can go. is there any other common thing here that I can try? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[fiveoclock]

It can only be the four bolts that hold the runners to the floor, the bolts at the side near the angle of the seat or the nuts underneath the front of the seat that secure it to the runner joining plate (for the latter you have to take the seat out)

Edited by fiveoclock, 26 October 2016 - 09:11 AM.

[fezzasus]

I really wouldn't recommend tightening the bolts 'as tight as they can go' because they go into aluminium. Chances of threading it is very high.

 

The drivers seat runners can develop some play. Also take the seat out and check the two nyloc nuts attaching the base of the seat to the runner.

[siztenboots]

Trouble is, I can't keep away from a problem! I've had another look...

 

The rail is a steel channel running in a steel channel. There are no hardened bearing surfaces, so it's gonna wear pretty quick if you keep moving the seat back and forth. As I said before, lateral play can be improved by pinching the outer in a vice. The vertical play (which I guess you people are suffering from more), is taken up by a series of pressed indents (like notches) along the top of the outer channel. These won't last five minutes with you habitual shufflers.

 

You can do a temporary fix by knocking these indents in further I guess, but a better fix would be to introduce some hard rubber blocks between the inner and outer channel.

 

Seasoned seat-movers should source a ball-bearing type runner and get someone to adapt it to the frame.

 

 

Steve

[Arno]

I really wouldn't recommend tightening the bolts 'as tight as they can go' because they go into aluminium. Chances of threading it is very high.

 

Seat rail bolts that go into the chassis beams actually thread into steel.

 

At the front there's weldnuts on small steel strips bonded inside the (hollow) chassis beam. On the back there are steel threaded reinforcement plates bonded into the chassis beam itself.

 

Can still strip 'em of course if you're brutal enough, but at least a lot less quick than if they were just threaded into ali

 

But like above.. Usually any rocking is not in the bolts, it's most of the time play in the slider mechanism itself..

 

Bye, Arno.

[Harry Hornet]

..or ..get  some really firm foam and stuff it down behind the seat...this also stops sh*te falling down underneath from the shelf

 

HH

[Exmantaa]

Thought this is due to play in the steel bearing balls in the slider mechanism. On the German forum they had a group buy once for slightly bigger steel balls that seemed to work, only the sliding was a bit harder to do...

[harrytx65]

I had the issue with the driver seat too. I guess everybody gets it sooner or later. Wanted to replace the bearing balls with the "first oversize" but could only change the rear bearing balls. The oversize wouldn't fit into the front, not enough worn out. Now the rattle issue of the seat is fixed but I can only move it when sitting in it. Wouldn't be much of a problem but I need to move it forwards to place the softtop behind the seats which is not very comfortable now.

[gaffer1986]

I really wouldn't recommend tightening the bolts 'as tight as they can go' because they go into aluminium. Chances of threading it is very high.   The drivers seat runners can develop some play. Also take the seat out and check the two nyloc nuts attaching the base of the seat to the runner.

I've had this issue with both my VX220s and both times it was the two nyloc nuts under the seat, you need to take the seat out with the runners connected to see.

[gaffer1986]

http://www.vx220.org...lacement-bolts/

[oz2044]

thanks. I'll take the seat out altogether then and see what I find! I'll let you know. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[B1RMA]

Undoing these seat bolts was one the most frustrating jobs I've ever done, and I had to remove both seats too.

[Mangham54]

Undoing these seat bolts was one the most frustrating jobs I've ever done, and I had to remove both seats too.

 

Really not that difficult with the right tool...

 

Refitting them.... that is the spectacularly fun job.

[gaffer1986]

Passenger seat front left allen bolt is the tricky one, I bought 3 tools none of which helped much.

[gaffer1986]

Maybe these will help.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...n8AAOSwBahVOKxZ

[B1RMA]

I adapted one of those Halfords ratchet spanners and a driver with a bit of tape around it, did the job a treat. Although still not something I particularly want to do again.

[Mangham54]

I adapted one of those Halfords ratchet spanners and a driver with a bit of tape around it, did the job a treat. Although still not something I particularly want to do again.

That's the best combo. It is the fun of getting the bolt located and then managing to get bit in it without knocking it out that will drive you barmy

[gaffer1986]

I adapted one of those Halfords ratchet spanners and a driver with a bit of tape around it, did the job a treat. Although still not something I particularly want to do again.

 

Have you got a photo?

[B1RMA]

 

I adapted one of those Halfords ratchet spanners and a driver with a bit of tape around it, did the job a treat. Although still not something I particularly want to do again.

 

Have you got a photo?

 

Unfortunately not, but if you get one of those short hex/allen-key drivers to fit the seat bolt and one of those fine ratchet spanners 10mm I think, and wrap some tape around the hex driver so it doesn't drop off before locating you then have to just put a finger on the seat bolt so it doesn't just rotate back.

In conclusion this must have been one of the worst jobs in the factory no doubt about it. 

[gaffer1986]

 

I adapted one of those Halfords ratchet spanners and a driver with a bit of tape around it, did the job a treat. Although still not something I particularly want to do again.

  Have you got a photo?  

Unfortunately not, but if you get one of those short hex/allen-key drivers to fit the seat bolt and one of those fine ratchet spanners 10mm I think, and wrap some tape around the hex driver so it doesn't drop off before locating you then have to just put a finger on the seat bolt so it doesn't just rotate back. In conclusion this must have been one of the worst jobs in the factory no doubt about it. 

Cheers. I bet they had a bespoke tool for it, would save a lot of time.