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Crash Box Removal


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#1 AlfaAversion

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 01:51 PM

So I managed to get a second hand crash box after 2 yrs of looking . I've read a few posts about how to remove them but was trying to get an idea about the best way as the second hand one still has the chassis front on it Do I use wire either square or braided or long knives and a blow torch or is it a case of try everything and good luck

#2 Gadget2

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 02:12 PM

I recently gave a hand to Turboboy replacing his crash box. We used a hacksaw blade to cut through the glue - the blade clamped into a mole grip, lots of **** words and it eventually came off.

 

Its some serious glue they use on these boxes as the towing post is reliant on the strength of the glue between the crash box and the chassis!

 

Just reread your post. The same technique would apply to remove the remains of the old chassis, take care not to cut into the box itself.

 

Good luck, its not a job I would like to repeat.


Edited by Gadget2, 21 December 2016 - 02:17 PM.


#3 AlfaAversion

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 03:29 PM

I was thinking of sharpening up an old long steel rule bolting a wooden handle on it if I can't find a suitable blade Washing up liquid seems to help when cutting screens out so might try that also Or drop the lot off at my local auto windscreens?

#4 T VXT

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 03:40 PM

I've removed one from the chassis but destroyed the crashbox in the process.

 

Have you removed the broken one off your car yet?



#5 anz3001

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 03:48 PM

could a wiresaw be used?



#6 vocky

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 04:29 PM

it really is quite easy, simply cut the alloy chassis away section by section.

 

Use a Dremel or similar, it took me a couple of hours to do it on Theo's car thumbsup



#7 AlfaAversion

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 04:46 PM

Yeah taking the ally off the back sounds the safest way to do it .

#8 sam220T

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:37 PM

The way the breakers do it is by heating the alloy box tubing the crashbox is attached to as the glue becomes soft at reasonably low temperatures. They put a large gad blow lamp in either end of the box section for a short time then stand on the box and it falls off. Can be done in a very short time this way.

#9 FLD

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:41 PM

The way the breakers do it is by heating the alloy box tubing the crashbox is attached to as the glue becomes soft at reasonably low temperatures. They put a large gad blow lamp in either end of the box section for a short time then stand on the box and it falls off. Can be done in a very short time this way.

:yeahthat: Dead easy, takes about 20 min. Then just cut the old glue off the 'new' crashbox before sticking it on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#10 turbo boy

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:57 PM

Speak to Rocky at Lotus Parts in Birmingham if you need to remove the crash box in one piece. He made some kind of a special tool to extract it from the chassis. Like Gadgetman says it's very tricky. I recently bought one from Rocky and he got it off the chassis very neatly for us. I believe he used a heated cutting tool of some description?

#11 turbo boy

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:58 PM

Oh and you must use the Lotus adhesive when fixing it back up - it's £50 a tube and considered hazardous to transport...

#12 fiveoclock

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 07:02 PM

Speak to Rocky at Lotus Parts in Birmingham if you need to remove the crash box in one piece. He made some kind of a special tool to extract it from the chassis. Like Gadgetman says it's very tricky. I recently bought one from Rocky and he got it off the chassis very neatly for us. I believe he used a heated cutting tool of some description?

This will be good :D



#13 FLD

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:07 PM

Oh and you must use the Lotus adhesive when fixing it back up - it's £50 a tube and considered hazardous to transport...

The lotus adhesive is a standard spec PU adhesive and can be had for a tenner. You must use a PU primer to fill the grain of the alu to get a proper bond. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#14 The Batman

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:10 PM

Don't use tiger seal like someone did.....

Edited by The Batman, 21 December 2016 - 08:10 PM.


#15 jonnyboy

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:23 PM

Tiger seal is PU adhesive

 

Lotus so a "proper" bonding adhesive for about £60 or just use CT one power grab and bond thats a proper semi structural adhesive. Its used in construction and much cheaper than the official stuff. 

 

 



#16 The Batman

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:26 PM

when tiger seal was used, the clam was removed and the crashbox sat on the floor :lol: :lol:



#17 jonnyboy

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:27 PM

Tiger seal is good for bonding mirrors in and not much more! 



#18 The Batman

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:28 PM

i seem to remember autovaux saying windscreen bonding agent? comes with the cleaner and primer


Edited by The Batman, 21 December 2016 - 08:28 PM.


#19 AlfaAversion

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 09:45 PM

I have some 1k pu glue I use for sticking chrome tat on 500s comes from fiat . Or sikaflex 555 I can get that from a mate It's just the resale thing will people need to know it's held on with a pu that's come in a lotus box

#20 FLD

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:05 PM

when tiger seal was used, the clam was removed and the crashbox sat on the floor :lol: :lol:

That's because a proper primer wasn't used. You need the right one for the right glue. It's not rocket science, you just need to read the spec sheets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




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