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#21 Nev

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Posted 15 March 2019 - 07:06 PM

 

I bought a house, so the body mods are going to have to wait :(

 

Uh oh !
 



#22 Ozzig

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Posted 15 March 2019 - 08:42 PM

Nice, though that large roll of toilet paper makes me wonder if you should really be dumping on your engine !

 

Okay, I'm a bit late to the party, but if I were more mechanically minded I'd be able to make a hilarious drunken quip about adding a dump-valve  :D  :D  :D



#23 TheRealVXed

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 10:26 PM

Quarantine has meant I am wheeling out the modifications I was planning before...

 

Not content with the 4pot/2pot combo, I replaced the master cylinder for the biggest I could reasonably find (go this way with a servo, smaller without) and settled on the Porsche Cayenne Turbo MC.  This needs a small amount of modification, but then fits like a glove.  Much happier with the feel, although still think it would benefit from a little less servo assistance.

 

Yesterday had a play with some of the fuel mapping on the dutch ECU and now feels a lot smoother on the throttle and also feels a little more torquey everywhere, which is nice.

 

Today went on some carbon ears 

 

Q2bbNP0.jpg

 

Tomorrow and onwards I'm going to be revisiting the coupe conversion with a view to seeing where I can get with that.  Would like to have it ready for a wrap/spray by the end of quarantine, but let's see what happens....


Edited by TheRealVXed, 31 March 2020 - 10:27 PM.


#24 paul_mck

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 07:44 AM

respray in silver? :)



#25 TheRealVXed

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 04:08 PM

respray in silver? :)

 

:ninja: it will not be silver :P



#26 SteveA

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 06:54 AM

How did you make those carbon ears float in mid air? That's incredible  :huh:  :o



#27 paul_mck

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 08:21 AM

poor silver :(



#28 TheRealVXed

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 09:49 AM

Trying to fix the squeaky, squealy, rubby rear 2 pots, which I think is caused by the rusted hub carriers meaning the adaptor plate doesn't sit at 100% the correct angle meaning the pad face isn't square with he disc causing it to rub.

 

Got to work taking it to bits

 

qFQw84s.jpg

 

Now it's all apart time to get the bearing assembly out of the hub carrier 

 

6uRepCo.jpg

 

Which I couldn't do because the thing is completely rusted in to the hub carrier.  They've done 90k now though so might as well just replace the bearing assembly.  The hub carriers are beyond repair without machining to get the adapter plates to side fully flush, so have a nice shiny new pair arrived today and bearing assemblies 

 

jzsR1By.jpg

 

Isolation is expensive.....



#29 Arno

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:43 AM

Check your toe link bolt type.

 

If these are new uprights then the toe link connection will be a tapered M12 and not a straight-shank M10 with spacers which you seem to have.

 

You'll need to fit later model toe link balljoint ends.

 

Eg:

 

31_03.gif

 

 

Item 30 (A117D0089S) https://deroure.com/...=0&PBID=932322

 

Do NOT fit the straight M10 into the tapered M12 set as it will come loose!

 

Bye, Arno.



#30 FLD

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 08:56 AM

Could've gone tesla roadster uprights to get 308mm rear discs in. :nod:

 

ETA: whats your plan with the old uprights? :poke:


Edited by FLD, 08 April 2020 - 08:57 AM.


#31 sford

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 09:06 AM

Could've gone tesla roadster uprights to get 308mm rear discs in. :nod:

 

ETA: whats your plan with the old uprights? :poke:

 

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....



#32 chris_uk

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 09:56 AM

Let me know if you fancy some spitfire Toelinks..

If you have to replace the end ball joint to match the uprights it might be the perfect time to swap the lot out :)

#33 Tonie Pettersson

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 10:53 AM

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....

 

 

:happy: :happy:



#34 TheRealVXed

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 02:52 PM

 

Could've gone tesla roadster uprights to get 308mm rear discs in. :nod:

 

ETA: whats your plan with the old uprights? :poke:

 

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....

 

 

 

 

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....

 

 

:happy: :happy:

 

 


Happy to do so, but they are rusty AF and it will cost a sample set of aluminium GT hubs :ninja: 

 

In all seriousness, I don't mind if you want the old hub carriers?



#35 TheRealVXed

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 02:55 PM

Check your toe link bolt type.

 

If these are new uprights then the toe link connection will be a tapered M12 and not a straight-shank M10 with spacers which you seem to have.

 

You'll need to fit later model toe link balljoint ends.

 

Eg:

 

Item 30 (A117D0089S) https://deroure.com/...=0&PBID=932322

 

Do NOT fit the straight M10 into the tapered M12 set as it will come loose!

 

Bye, Arno.

 

Thanks Arno, I have a pair of tapered toe links to fit too, as I do indeed have the old straight type. :thumbsup:



#36 FLD

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Posted 09 April 2020 - 08:25 AM

 

 

Could've gone tesla roadster uprights to get 308mm rear discs in. :nod:

 

ETA: whats your plan with the old uprights? :poke:

 

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....

 

 

 

 

He's going to donate them to Tonnie so that he can make some rear aluminium gt hubs.....

 

 

:happy: :happy:

 

 


Happy to do so, but they are rusty AF and it will cost a sample set of aluminium GT hubs :ninja:

 

In all seriousness, I don't mind if you want the old hub carriers?

 

 

It's a thought in my head and I need some scrappers to measure from.  It might be non-productive but worth thinking about.

 

If you're interested my thought was this:

Can I pattern some uprights same as OEM with a raised hub centre? 

I then also wondered if I could include a wider HCB hole to match the fronts.  The reason for this is that the shims on the front are available in 3mm whereas the rears are only 1mm.  I don't like the idea of a feck load of shims and if I'm patterning it I could change this.

I also thought about extending the caliper mount to make 308mm discs an option.

I'd then cast (in SG nodular iron)

nothing as good as tonies uprights would be :poke:
 



#37 Rosssco

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Posted 09 April 2020 - 09:05 AM

Presume they are symmetrical, so, one to Tonie and one to FLD.. Race!



#38 Tonie Pettersson

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Posted 09 April 2020 - 09:18 AM

I actually already have an extra pair of rear uprights in the garage somewhere. They'll see daylight again in 2030 when I'm about to make those fancy aluminium ones :D.



#39 sford

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Posted 09 April 2020 - 01:48 PM

Sorry, thread steal here.

 

If they could have mounts for the two pot calipers integrated as well that would be perfect. Then I'll have to buy some 4 pots, spot calipers and do your master cylinder mod though. 



#40 TheRealVXed

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Posted 14 April 2020 - 03:31 PM

Sorry, thread steal here.

 

If they could have mounts for the two pot calipers integrated as well that would be perfect. Then I'll have to buy some 4 pots, spot calipers and do your master cylinder mod though. 

 

Master cylinder mod is a must in my opinion to get more feel back, especially if you opt for the big 4 pots up front as I did.  The stopping power of those things is monstrous.

 

All back together now and the replacements seem to have fixed the rear braking issues, where the pads were at a slight angle due to the rustiness of the carriers and would rub when warm making a horrible squealing sound.  

 

I would note that if you are using the adaptors for the 2 pots on the rear, that they don't precisely fit in the recesses in the hub carriers (at least mine didn't) and it's worth extending the chamfer on the adaptors to get the face to sit flush on the carrier.

 

All brakes happily squeaky as hell though :D

 

Out for a test drive

 

7riFCJa.jpg






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