35 replies to this topic

[Bargi]

If everything seems right there's a remote possibility it could be the power to the abs unit itself. I had a voltage drop from 12v to 2v from fuse box to abs unit. Ran a wire direct and worked fine.

[aquilaproejct]

G'day mate. Just went through similar dramas on my car. Turns out my first solder repair while it looked good was high resistance intermittently. To fix the issue I hard soldered the joint again but kept checking resistance down the system at the abs module connector at each stage.(heat shrinking, cable into sheath and tying up and away). Resistance on mine was 1.5k ohms which I checked against the other corners. Fixed now! Connector at module pin out's Rear right 9 + 10 Front right 12+ 13 Rear left 22 + 23 Front left 14 + 25

[cam_jones]

You have to drive it a short distance to reset the abs after switch it on Looking at that switch I would remove it a connect the wired together           

 

 

 

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[glitch]

hi, I have already removed the switch and established a permanent connection. I am aware that you need to drive it for the light to go out but that is assuming all is ok and I assume that Opcom should not show rear sensoe circuit to be open if all was well.

[aquilaproejct]

Correct. At least with a tech 2 it does. Presume opcom is the same

[Foxy]

hi, I have already removed the switch and established a permanent connection. I am aware that you need to drive it for the light to go out but that is assuming all is ok and I assume that Opcom should not show rear sensoe circuit to be open if all was well.

Have you fixed this yet? I'm trying to diagnose an ABS fault on my VX...

[glitch]

 

hi, I have already removed the switch and established a permanent connection. I am aware that you need to drive it for the light to go out but that is assuming all is ok and I assume that Opcom should not show rear sensoe circuit to be open if all was well.

Have you fixed this yet? I'm trying to diagnose an ABS fault on my VX...

 

 

Hi buddy,

 

yes sorted it. I ended up looking closely at the existing wiring and seeing where it was most leikely to have failed (i.e. the points where there are kinks and where the cable ties hold it in place). Then I cut off about half a meter, and did a continuity test to make sure that the cable that was left was sound (one probe at one end, and one probe against the pin out on the ABS connector).

Then knowing this section is good, I added some automotive connectors and used a CAT5 twisted unshielded multi strand wire and crimped on some connectors at each side. The Cat5 gives 4x pairs of twisted wires so two pairs per wire.

This is the type of connector:

https://www.aliexpre...608.4.42.DVjK3c

 

The OEM connector is slightly different but these did work with a bit of gentle persuasion.

So with this I now have a "removable" and replaceable section of wire, should it break again, I can simply make up a new section and plug into the OEM wire where I now have a connector for the last section of the wiring.

I then wrapped the new cable with a split corrugated plastic hose and then covered it all in wiring loom tape as per OEM style.

 

 

A tip I found useful was to crimp a female connector on to a long extra piece of the CAT5 cable (or any cable for that matter).

Thes then you can slide on to the pin of the ABS sensor, and this way you can take the other end of the CAt5 cable and stand next to your ABS connector when doing the continuity test as other wise the mulitmeter wires will be too shot to put one probe on the ABS connector pinout and the other one at the ABS sensor end.

[Foxy]

Hi buddy,

 

 

yes sorted it. I ended up looking closely at the existing wiring and seeing where it was most leikely to have failed (i.e. the points where there are kinks and where the cable ties hold it in place). Then I cut off about half a meter, and did a continuity test to make sure that the cable that was left was sound (one probe at one end, and one probe against the pin out on the ABS connector).

Then knowing this section is good, I added some automotive connectors and used a CAT5 twisted unshielded multi strand wire and crimped on some connectors at each side. The Cat5 gives 4x pairs of twisted wires so two pairs per wire.

This is the type of connector:

https://www.aliexpre...608.4.42.DVjK3c

 

The OEM connector is slightly different but these did work with a bit of gentle persuasion.

So with this I now have a "removable" and replaceable section of wire, should it break again, I can simply make up a new section and plug into the OEM wire where I now have a connector for the last section of the wiring.

I then wrapped the new cable with a split corrugated plastic hose and then covered it all in wiring loom tape as per OEM style.

 

 

A tip I found useful was to crimp a female connector on to a long extra piece of the CAT5 cable (or any cable for that matter).

Thes then you can slide on to the pin of the ABS sensor, and this way you can take the other end of the CAt5 cable and stand next to your ABS connector when doing the continuity test as other wise the mulitmeter wires will be too shot to put one probe on the ABS connector pinout and the other one at the ABS sensor end.

Great to hear that you sorted it, but sounds like a painful process - thanks for the detailed explanation!

 

Did you actually find the point of failure?

[glitch]

Hi,

 

I did a continuity test on the old wire in situation before replacing anything, and most of the time it checked out fine. But I kept getting intermittent fault codes on the two sensors.

As with these things it is rather hard to determine if it is the wire or the connector causing the issue when it comes and goes, I figured I'd rather replace both wire and connector to be certain any bad elements were remove. That's why I also chose to remove a significant part of the wire, basically everything exposed to the elements and a bit up into the front compartment section in the front and into the engine room in the rear.

I figured that the most stress on the wires is around the wishbones where there is movement and around the cable ties which hold the cable in place. Assuming the wire higher up which is less stressed is OK.

Hence cutting, then checking the wire still in place is OK, and then making up a replacement section.

Not difficult but a bit time consuming.

I started trying to just clean the connectors .etc. but as the fault code kept coming intermittent, in the end I went for this solution which seems to work fine. And as the wire is most likely to get damaged again around the exposed parts, with the connectors it will be easy in the future to just make a new replacement section.

 

The front wire just goes through the wheel arch up into the front compartment. So easy enough to replace. The rear is a bit more tricky as it is routed through the entire car (I think through the sill) so I wasn't keen on running a completely new wire hence just removing part of the wire.

[Foxy]

A quick thanks doesn't seem sufficient for such a comprehensive reply...so... T h a n k s! 👍🏼

[Joss]

I hope this is not related to my ABS unit Simon...

 

[Foxy]

I hope this is not related to my ABS unit Simon...  

I think it is probably all your fault. I'm sure 'my' abs unit is fine

[Pidgeon]

I think what Glitch is referring to (I can't see the pics here) is the wiring to the wheel sensors.  All of us will have this issue sooner or later.  I can diagnose with the multi meter (if the car is ever at your home).  Only permanent cure is to cut out the original decomposing wire and replace.  Chris at Jon Seal did a lovely job on mine for a good price.

[P11 COV]

Been getting issues with mine for a few years. Front left and rear right seem the worst. I just keep chopping bits of wire out and putting new bits in. As Andrew says - best get it done properly to save issues recurring - like mine

[glitch]

The shitty bit is when you have intermittent loss of signal. Makes it near impossible to find just where the section causing issues is. With my multimeter with car at standstill all sensors checked out fine, but while driving when things move ans vibrate that is when the fun starts

[fezzasus]

Usually points to a front wiring issue, or did with mine. I put mine on lock and would get an ABS fault