35 replies to this topic

[glitch]

Hi guys,

 

trying to sort all the small niggles on the VX before being able to do the import registration here in Sweden.

The ABS has been previously disabled via a switch in the front.

ABS light however stays on even after switching it to "On".

It seems to be inserted along a black wire? I thought it was a yellow one that is normally cut?

 

I managed finally to get OPCOM working, and cleared a bunch of fault codes linked to the ABS, but one of them keeps coming back directly after clearing.

 

It says it has an issue with the rear circuit right side.

 

 

I thought this one is the one also driving the speedo? Because last time I drove the car speedo worked fined.

I have also measured the voltage and the connector going to the ABS shows 5V as I believe it should?

Not sure what to try next.

 

Thanks!

 

[james_ly]

Have you driven the car since reconnecting the ABS? On my car you have to go over 5mph or so before the light goes out again. Or I was just impatient...

[smiley]

Speedo is rear left.

[glitch]

Have you driven the car since reconnecting the ABS? On my car you have to go over 5mph or so before the light goes out again. Or I was just impatient...

 

Hi James,

 

just driven the car briefly after reconnecting the ABS, and this was before the code resetting with OPCOM and the light stayed on at that time.

[glitch]

I also checked the cables going into the wheel bearing and they look fine and properly connected so no frayed cables from what I can see.

[PaulCP]

Have you checked that the switch is working ok. This happened to me once and the culprit was a faulty switch Also, presumably you are turning the ABS back on with the ignition switched off & not with the engine running?

Edited by PaulCP, 12 January 2017 - 01:44 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

You have to drive it a short distance to reset the abs after switch it on Looking at that switch I would remove it a connect the wired together

[glitch]

Hi,

 

Yes i switched the ABS "back on" with the ignition off.

I will try to disconnect the switch and connect the wire back together to ensure I have a good connection so I can rule that out.

 

When I reset the ABS in OPCOM it immediately displays the error codes again so it seems something is still triggering the fault code - I suppose driving it wouldn't change much as I suppose the light goes off after the car is driven for a while and the system runs "fault free" for a period of time?

 

 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

its more it needs to find its self after switching it back on 

hopfully it wont come back on until you switch it off again 

[oblomov]

Has the car been standing for any length of time? I've had to change the rear passenger sensor twice through malfunction after the car had been standing for a period of time.

Edited by oblomov, 12 January 2017 - 06:50 PM.

[glitch]

Has the car been standing for any length of time? I've had to change the rear passenger sensor twice through malfunction after the car had been standing for a period of time.

Hi, I think the car stood some weeks due to infrequent use with previous owner. Since in my custody it has just been standing How did you sort the sensors? Note mine is on the right side (driver side).

[Exmantaa]

You can measure the resistance of each ABS sensor at the hub connector; should be around 1400 Ohm.

[mbes2]

Switch used to work fine before I sold the car, your opcom output points to rear right, I know I changed all wheel bearing but thinking about it was a while ago now so might of developed a fault. 

 

ABS was rubbish even on the road, wouldn't even bother with it on track, most do the 4 channel unit but reports on that are 50/50.

[glitch]

You can measure the resistance of each ABS sensor at the hub connector; should be around 1400 Ohm.

 

Basically unplug the abs sensor from the loom, and measure the two pins of the female connector attached to the wheel bearing?  

[Pidgeon]

Easiest way I find to troubleshoot the ABS is by detecting signals at the ABS plug.  There's a key somewhere on here to where the 8 wires run in the plug.  If there's signal there with the wheel being turns by a helper, your problem is upstream.

[Exmantaa]

 

You can measure the resistance of each ABS sensor at the hub connector; should be around 1400 Ohm.

 

Basically unplug the abs sensor from the loom, and measure the two pins of the female connector attached to the wheel bearing?  

 

 

Yep; unplug the connector and measure accross the 2 pins. If that measures OK (wiggle the wires to check for intermitting contacts), you then need to look towards the ABS wiring. (check for continuety or shorts. There is a scheme of the ABS connector pins somewhere.)

[glitch]

Haven't had time to go to the car yet, but just a quick question, if my harness was damaged somewhere along the circuit for rear right sensor, shouldn't I then get a 0 voltage reading from the ABS plug at the end of the harness? As today it measures 5v?

 

I thought that if there was an interuption in the wiring, then there would be no positive voltage i.e. a break in the harness cable would interupt the voltage?

But then again maybe that is not at all how it works

[glitch]

So I spent some time with the car this weekend.

 

I removed the ABS switch and made a new connection of the yellow wire - so now it is 100% connected.

 

I measured resistance at the plug connector of the wheel sensor. It seems to measure OK?

 

 

I measured voltage at the connector coming from the loom which plugs into the ABS wheel bearing sensor. Also seems OK?

 

Not sure what to do next? I seem to have power in the loom and the bearing sensor seems OK?

 

Edited by glitch, 13 February 2017 - 10:34 AM.

[glitch]

I hope I set it up right for measuring Ohm? Never done it before

[glitch]

Help anyone? Stuck on this. Not sure what to try next - or how to proceed?

 

Had I lived in the UK the obvious thing was to buy my way out of this issue by dropping the car at a workshop which knows their way around a VX but I am out of luck on that point here :/