15 replies to this topic

[Foxy_Jr]

On the scrounge!!

 

Does anybody in the North West - Preferably in Cheshire have the tool for the filter housing I could borrow?  Like the one in this thread.

 

Hopefully I will have some new gaskets soon courtesy of Mat.

 

TIA 

 

 

[meadows1]

I've got one of these but I remember just using my socket drive in the top of the filter.
You're welcome to borrow it but as I've not used it before can't exactly say it's gonna work.

Tom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Foxy_Jr]

Thank for that Tom. What I'm actually after borrowing is the tool which tightens the insert holding the 'banjo' for the oil cooler into the housing. The plan is to lock the threads into the housing f'ing tight so normal service is resumed on an oil change. I.e. Remove the lid instead of the whole housing. I can remove the whole lot and get the top from the insert, but can't tighten the insert enough into the housing to stop it from being removed with the top. If that makes sense!

[Chris P Duck]

Yes and I'm just over the boarder in Wales, CH5 3GG will need to check I can find it in the garage though!

[aquilaproejct]

Does anyone also know where you can buy one? My seals are weeping.

[aquilaproejct]

..

Edited by aquilaproejct, 21 January 2017 - 10:53 PM.

[Chris P Duck]

May not be the one your after, I have the wrench style ones like below (one closed like that and one open)




I don't have the below one.

Edited by Chris P Duck, 21 January 2017 - 11:17 PM.

[Madmitch]

ChippyFA on this forum used to make them, I think they were about £15.

[Foxy_Jr]

Thanks Chris, I was looking for the below one, hadn't even considered the wrench style, didn't know they existed. I guess a 'torque hammer' could be used with it to get the insert in really tight! On that note what are the torque figures for the housing insert? 125Nm? Finger tight (just nipped up) for the lid <=20Nm? Cheers.

[Madmitch]

120Nm for the ring and 25Nm for the cap says the TIS.  With Chippy's spanner the handle gets round the inlet manifold, then a long extension bar does the job. 

Edited by Madmitch, 22 January 2017 - 08:45 AM.

[PaulCP]

Thanks Chris, I was looking for the below one, hadn't even considered the wrench style, didn't know they existed. I guess a 'torque hammer' could be used with it to get the insert in really tight! On that note what are the torque figures for the housing insert? 125Nm? Finger tight (just nipped up) for the lid <=20Nm? Cheers.

In the absence of the correct tool the wrench type one as shown worked ok for me, there's just enough room for a few gentle knocks on the handle with a hammer to tighten the barrel. You will have no idea what torque you are at but the cap only requires minimal tightening. Removed the cap 3 times ok before selling the car.

Edited by PaulCP, 22 January 2017 - 09:52 AM.

[Chris P Duck]

Thanks Chris, I was looking for the below one, hadn't even considered the wrench style, didn't know they existed. I guess a 'torque hammer' could be used with it to get the insert in really tight! On that note what are the torque figures for the housing insert? 125Nm? Finger tight (just nipped up) for the lid <=20Nm? Cheers.

I assume your cap and sandwich plate are spererated? The bottom tool (which should be a lot easier for tourquing up) won't be able to separate the cap from the plate. If you do manage to get the bottom tool can you give me a shout as I never got round to splitting and correctly torquing the 2 parts on mine.

[FLD]

I have a drawing for the bottom tool. Is it worth looking at getting some made up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Foxy_Jr]

Sounds good can you mail me a copy when you get a moment?  Have some one locally who I think may be able to make them up.

[Rudy]

Search is working.  YAY!!

 

Apols for the thread resurrection, but same issue so hopefully same outcome.

 

Anyway, similar to Foxy_JR I need to separate the oil filter housing rather than removing the whole thing for oil changes.  During my recent service it was noted that the 2 wouldn’t budge (and probably hadn’t been separated for a very long time), so wonder if its just the lack of using the tool, or these things just weld shut?

 

I had the foresight to purchase some gaskets from Mitch on here so it was no biggy – but does removing the whole thing cause any long term damage or issues anyone is aware of?

 

Any other tips to remove (other than brute force, welding torch etc) helpful

 

Cheers

 

 

Edited by Rudy, 31 May 2018 - 08:02 AM.

[Madmitch]

Sometimes the cap comes off without disturbing the adaptor ring, sometimes it all comes out with the cap.  Provided there is no leak or weep from the two sandwich plate gaskets then the adaptor ring can stay in place but if you still have the original metal gaskets then I would change them as they can start to leak without warning, especially if they have been reused at some stage in the past.  If it does all come out in one lump then no harm is done, just fit new gaskets and reassemble.  I found the best way to separate the cap and the adaptor ring was to clamp the hex, on the top of the cap, in the side of the vice jaws with the big six tooth ring spanner properly seated on the adaptor ring, then tap/hit the spanner handle making sure it remains firmly seated in the six detents in the ring.  It may take a while but they will separate!