26 replies to this topic

[SteveA]

That is expected as without the maf it runs on a static table and can't adjust for incoming airflow and will be a good bit slower but should be smooth.

Edited by SteveA, 07 October 2017 - 04:01 PM.

[siztenboots]

for various failsafes , it can switch to Speed density or Alpha-N map ( KLAF function ), but you should still get full boost.

[Danceman2020]

Ok So if I'm reading this correct that the MAF still may be ok ? It drives pretty much ok without the MAF disconnected But maybe a bit down on power ... Ok will fit new MAF and see if indeed it was that which has been causing the problem.

[SteveA]

I had the same problem with mine and it turned out to be a short in the wiring supplying the maf under load. Changing the maf didn't work for me but as soon as I found the break and fixed the cable it was back to normal.

[Danceman2020]

Hi Steve thanks for that i will check the wires running to the MAF ... Was it a certain point? as it may be a week spot in the wiring so may be the same on my car.

[SteveA]

There is an extension loom which connects near the cam belt cover, goes into the firewall then comes back out to the connector you unplugged, mine was broken just before it enters the fw. If you disconnect the sub loom plug and put a continuity tester between it and the plug you disconnected that would be the first test.

[Danceman2020]

Ok Changed the MAF and car is running better and now only drops boost between 3-3.5k accelerate from 2k up pulls stronger from 3.5k to the redline... Seems like it just opens the dump valve between 3 - 3.5 k then builds boost all the way to the redline. will check the loom from the MAF next make sure there is no wires broken. But definitely not the MAF ... The car has a rough ideal when warm anyone had this in the past.