Jump to content


Photo

Soft Top Repair Questions


  • Please log in to reply
1 reply to this topic

#1 W123

W123

    Member

  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:SOUTHEND-ON-SEA

Posted 21 October 2017 - 08:51 PM

Having just fitted a new hood cable (thanks ElizP), before I put the top back on I want to improve some of the other bits of it that have been niggling.

 

1. Some of the rubber has split as per picture. It's otherwise good condition and I think could just glue back together. What is the best glue/sealant to use; ideally black?

 

2. The foam inner side padding has always been loose, removing one I can see that the white plastic fixing clips have lots of movement in their housing so there will always be looseness. Someone has used some sort of black mastic type stuff to help that hasn't stuck very well. What's the best stuff to use that can be cheese-wired apart if I need to dismantle down the line?

 

3. The corners of the pad are both split but not detached. Again, any recommendations on glue to put in the split? Or is something like a bit of fibreglass tissue as a bandage with epoxy resin a better bet? (I'm guessing polyester resin will dissolve the foam stuff? )

 

4. The nylon spigot covers for the attachment pins are missing on one side. Is this part available or has anyone found something similar that does the job? Hard nylon tube would seem to be closest but the nylon on the other side is longer than the pins they cover. Ie tube might not be strong enough.

 

5. Looking at the sealing rubber above the front windscreen, the hood material sheathing & front cable might go either to the front of the rubber completely (A) or in a groove in the sealing rubber [B]. In mine it did a bit of both and pushed the rubber out of shape but it's not obvious which way is correct. How should it go?

 

6. is there an inner part available for the soft-top for sound & heat insulation?

 

Some non hood questions if I may?

 

Is there in the Vauxhall/Lotus/other parts bin an alternative key lock mechanism that fits but turns to lock/unlock but returns to original position? The existing lock (on an N/a at least) doesn't lend itself to a fob-activated central locking unit. I'm wondering if for example whatever model the locks came from evolved to different lock mechanisms. 

 

Similarly are there more modern Vauxhall engines that have all the same mountings but 15 years more R&D that can be picked up at the breakers if the engine goes bang? With other cars in the past its worked out cheaper for me to pick up a whole car with a suitable engine just for the engine/gearbox than to spend the money rebuilding. But that's with a much older where parts are scarce. 

 

Sound deadening such as dynamat: At a car show the dynamat sales stand had two cymbals a normal one and one that had  four strips 3cm by 15cm on the underside. These made the cymbal sound like a piece of cardboard. Is there concensus on what sized strips go where to quieten things down? I'm not looking to make the whole inside look like a tinfoil santa's grotto. 

 

Comfiest seats?

 

Many thanks?

 

Attached Files



#2 W123

W123

    Member

  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:SOUTHEND-ON-SEA

Posted 05 December 2017 - 08:07 PM

Hmmm no replies? In the meantime I've solved my questions 1-4 so will share in case of use to others. 
 
1) & 2) After cleaning out the aluminium channel and existing rubber of all the old brown snotty glue I used a black sikaflex type stuff, actually from B&Q! Like the ultrastrong, waterproof rubbery white stuff but in black. I'm not sure how long it will hold but so far so good. Where some rubber was missing I was able to re-create it with this stuff too. I've also used that to gum up the white plastic fir tree catches so they can't roam about so easily. Finally a few dabs spaced between the catches to help grip and stop vibration. 
 
3) The split corners. First I got superglue into the cracks,taped closed and left for a few days to be sure it had gone off. This seemed to be quite strong but rather than take a chance I used fibreglass tissue and epoxy resin. to hold and reinforce. The tissue isn't that strong compared to the chopped strand stuff or woven cloth but it'll only have to be strong in tension and it's very thin so won't bulk out the foam unnecessarily. The epoxy stuck really well and didn't react with anything. The repaired section has no deflection to speak of. 
 
4) The nylon spigot caps. A piece of HDPE tube, 6mm internal diameter, 8mm external diameter cut and filed to size work perfectly. 
 
I seem to have used up my image limit but hopefully it's clear enough. 

Attached Files

  • Attached File  vx4.JPG   52.24KB   3 downloads
  • Attached File  vx6.JPG   35.7KB   1 downloads





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users