46 replies to this topic

[Johnboyhgt]

Hi all

 

On behalf of Acidpopstar (Neil) and myself could i pick your brains.

 

Whilst putting Neils car back together I came across an anomaly between left and right rear toe link outer joint fittings.

 

 IMG-20171203-WA0006.jpg   134.32KB   6 downloads  IMG-20171203-WA0001.jpg   123.26KB   6 downloads  20171204_114646.jpg   189.87KB   6 downloads

 

From left to right:    left rear link , Right rear and third image shows the standard joint spacer from oem.

 

Problem is that the left rear has the oem spacer in along with the new toe link fittings and the right rear doesn't so which should it be ?

 

Neil has had a caliper thread repaired in the past on the right rear (wrong bolt now in there but thats another story) so has it been left out, furthermore as the spacer is smaller in diameter than the toe link kit then I would think that it is adding more shear to the bolt than I would expect.

 

Can anyone identify the kit type - personally I think its an EP one.

 

John

 

[Johnboyhgt]

 IMG-20171203-WA0003 (1).jpg   26.13KB   6 downloadson and one more 

[Arno]

Both look wrong.

 

For the N/A upright straight bore toe link connection (M10) you need this spacer/adapter to fit in the upright cavity:

 

 

The later turbo upright (and toyota elises) have a tapered bore M12 connection and use this adapter:

 

 

Looks like whoever fitted this toe-link originally made an odd mashup of the OEM toelink bits and the eliseparts toe link bits but didn't use all the correct parts.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Acidpopstar]

Thanks Arno! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

have you had the hub carriers changed at some some point 

[Johnboyhgt]

Agree Arno, not a quality job at all. Chill, Neil tells me that he had a caliper bolt drilled out on that same side. We suspect that was when it was put back together with the spacer, though wrong missing. Neil has said that it struggles to turn in well in one direction. Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Edited by Johnboyhgt, 04 December 2017 - 11:12 PM.

[vocky]

I would advise you make both sides the same (you could use a pair of OEM spacers, one per side), but I would not recommend using flat washers as the spacer

[siztenboots]

Will have a look to see if I have the spare NA spacers from my Elise-shop kit , as you get both types of fittings from them

[Nev]

Good job you noticed this JohnBoy. It's quite startling what some previous fuknugget has done.

 

Edited by Nev, 05 December 2017 - 08:56 AM.

[Johnboyhgt]

Agree Nev

 

Probably a good job that Acidpopstar only managed one lap of Spa before his breakdown.

[siztenboots]

presumably these are the same parts fitted during his french frolic trip last year including the mountain driving afterwards

[Johnboyhgt]

Very kind of you to look Siztenboots

[Johnboyhgt]

i would assume so !!

[Spitfire Engineering]

Hi all

 

On behalf of Acidpopstar (Neil) and myself could i pick your brains.

 

Whilst putting Neils car back together I came across an anomaly between left and right rear toe link outer joint fittings.

 

IMG-20171203-WA0006.jpgIMG-20171203-WA0001.jpg20171204_114646.jpg

 

From left to right:    left rear link , Right rear and third image shows the standard joint spacer from oem.

 

Problem is that the left rear has the oem spacer in along with the new toe link fittings and the right rear doesn't so which should it be ?

 

Neil has had a caliper thread repaired in the past on the right rear (wrong bolt now in there but thats another story) so has it been left out, furthermore as the spacer is smaller in diameter than the toe link kit then I would think that it is adding more shear to the bolt than I would expect.

 

Can anyone identify the kit type - personally I think its an EP one.

 

John

 

 

Looks like Stainless rods so that would suggest Elise Shop though it could be the coating on the EP ones, hard to tell.

Any idea how long this has been fitted?

 

Looks to me like someone ordered/fitted the wrong kit and has tried to bodge the tapered fittings onto a recessed upright.

 

You could try contacting the dealer for support?

 

One thing for sure it's dangerous as it is now.

 

 

 

Edited by Spitfire Engineering, 05 December 2017 - 10:38 AM.

[Spitfire Engineering]

Hi all

 

On behalf of Acidpopstar (Neil) and myself could i pick your brains.

 

Whilst putting Neils car back together I came across an anomaly between left and right rear toe link outer joint fittings.

 

IMG-20171203-WA0006.jpgIMG-20171203-WA0001.jpg20171204_114646.jpg

 

From left to right:    left rear link , Right rear and third image shows the standard joint spacer from oem.

 

Problem is that the left rear has the oem spacer in along with the new toe link fittings and the right rear doesn't so which should it be ?

 

Neil has had a caliper thread repaired in the past on the right rear (wrong bolt now in there but thats another story) so has it been left out, furthermore as the spacer is smaller in diameter than the toe link kit then I would think that it is adding more shear to the bolt than I would expect.

 

Can anyone identify the kit type - personally I think its an EP one.

 

John

 

 

 

On the image with the toe link coming in from the right, what is stopping the collet going further into the recess?

 

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

IMG-20171203-WA0003 (1).jpgon and one more 

 

 

OK, forget the last question above ...

 

Unbelievable.

I'm surprised he even got to the track.

 

I really hope this was not fitted by any of the dealers.

Were there no instructions for fitting the kit?

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

I would advise you make both sides the same (you could use a pair of OEM spacers, one per side), but I would not recommend using flat washers as the spacer

 

Personally I would not try to patch it up, for a start you will not know the reference height for the bump steer and it would need multiple spacers anyway, bad enough the collet does not secure the ball joint into the recess with a snug fit as a single component. Separate components are not ideal with the M10 and multiple separate components is asking for trouble as each section can slide allowing further bolt travel as the shear forces increase.

 

Easier and safer to start again in this case, strip the bearings and examine all the collets to make sure they have not deformed.

Get back to the manufacturer and order the correct parts with new bolts etc

 

 

Can we get a picture of the nut please in full height?

 

Ta

 

Gaz

[Johnboyhgt]

nut in full height ??

 

John

 

 

[Spitfire Engineering]

nut in full height ??

 

John

 

 

 

Please.

Directly from the side, in the pic it is shadowed by the upright.

Or you measure with callipers if it is off the car now?

 

Edited by Spitfire Engineering, 05 December 2017 - 11:18 AM.

[Johnboyhgt]

Have another pic from the side will post shortly.