Having just had the gearbox opened and a new diff fitted, I was wondering what the thoughts are on what to fill it up again with? Is the OEM stuff the best thing to go for, or is there something better spec? It was working great before, but a bit stiff when cold...
F23 Gearbox Oil Recomendations
Started by
nicollow
, Dec 09 2017 03:28 PM
7 replies to this topic
#2
chris_uk
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Posted 09 December 2017 - 04:21 PM
i always put the OEM stuff back in personally.
#3
Nev
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Nipper's Minion
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Posted 09 December 2017 - 06:52 PM
It's been discussed to death, but a maxim of car ownership is to stick to OEM.
BTW, a stiff gear change is much more likely to be your cables of turret assembly than the oil in the box.
#4
slindborg
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Posted 12 December 2017 - 04:57 PM
Pop the cables off at the gearbox end and try the stick again... if it's still stiff then it's certainly the cables that are stuffed
#5
BadCop
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Posted 13 December 2017 - 04:52 PM
You can easily destroy the F23 with high priced "thick" racing gearbox oil.
When I open up gearboxes of customers with that thick oil it's always the same:
Burnt synchromesh and three bent "noses" on one of the rings. Mostly second or third gear.
You can even tell the difference in shifting (assuming your cables are good):
When you need alot of force to shift your oil is too thick and you will damage the synchromesh, the synchro teeth and the sleeve teeth with every shift.
Best choice in my mind is to use OEM or similar viscosity.
#6
siztenboots
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Posted 13 December 2017 - 05:19 PM
didn't modern gearboxes switch to the red ATF stuff , which is really thin
#7
2-20
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Billy No Mates
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Posted 13 December 2017 - 07:21 PM
I thought it was too thin oil that could destroy synchro....
Because the viscosity is needed to get the right coefficient of friction..???
#8
slindborg
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Posted 15 December 2017 - 11:42 AM
I thought it was too thin oil that could destroy synchro.... Because the viscosity is needed to get the right coefficient of friction..???
There isnt much space between a baulk ring and syncro, which would imply a thicker oil wouldnt get in to lube too well, thus burning them out.
Something that is/was an issue with the F10/13/16/20 box was the 3rd/4th setup had smaller Baulk rings than the 1st/2nd, and due to it being the most heavily used gear pair on road/track, the strutt keys would shatter the baulk ring and put a decent bit of brass into the system... Always nice.
Thick oil made this worse too, although some of that maybe incidental evidence as it was usually used with plate diffs and very hard work.
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