Bought a new B207 engine, should be on the way Before I starting buying parts (already have most of them to be fair), anyone see any glaring issues? Spec: Standard 2.0L B207 10:1 Compression (Z22SE or Z22YH Head gasket?) Ported exhaust ports Balancer delete Light flywheel with C20LET clutch Standard NA or LSJ cams 3.0" M62 Pulley (modular hub - also have 3.1") VXR blue injectors and uprated pump Piper ex. manifold 2.5" Exhaust Either OBD-Tuner (already have with existing external trigger) or complete LSJ ECU swap (already have most parts in the loft somewhere) - To be decided. Already have usual Stage2+ SC stuff (big pre-rad, dual pass, tank etc.) Aim is for a 'sporty' and 'responsive' road car engine (I'd be very happy if it pushed out ~280bhp and 230-240lb/ft) that's drivable, reliable, and isn't worried about pub / forum output figures.
Proposed B207 Spec
#1
Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:54 AM
#2
Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:57 AM
electric water pump option
#3
Posted 15 February 2018 - 12:22 PM
#4
Posted 15 February 2018 - 12:35 PM
I think the electric pump idea is too far out with my target reliability scale - a new OEM pump will work just fine.. Plus I'm not really chasing power, and the extra few that may give isn't a priority.. Should be revvy enough!
Edited by Rosssco, 15 February 2018 - 12:35 PM.
#5
Posted 15 February 2018 - 02:12 PM
If you use an electric waterpump you can delete the whole second timing chain instead of fitting neutral balancers or the short chain conversion.
#6
Posted 15 February 2018 - 02:46 PM
Yeah, I seen a few have done that incl. Vocky's engine, but its just too much of a departure from the standard-ish set-up I'm going for (with reliability being a major factor). Plus I prefer the idea of critical things like water and oil pumps being mechanically driven
#7
Posted 15 February 2018 - 02:52 PM
Before everybody goes berzerk here on your build... Thought you wanted something easy and quick to build?? And not too many mods for ultimate power... In the past my LSJ engine (=B207) got close to 280Hp with no mods: => stock 2.0 LSJ engine. M62 and 3.05" pulley. Std LSJ cams, stock 2.2 exh. manifold and a Tullett 2,5" exhaust muffler. LSJ ecu. http://www.vx220.org..._314_122705.jpg Your specs:
Standard 2.0L B207 10:1 Compression (Z22SE or Z22YH Head gasket?) => I would keep the stock 9,5 compression on NA/LSJ cams. Ported exhaust ports => Always helps, but even more if revved higher (valve springs!) and/or with high lift cams... Balancer delete => We've not seen real world gains with this. Our best running LSJ/B207's have stock balancers. (@7800rpm ;-) ) Light flywheel with C20LET clutch Standard NA or LSJ cams 3.0" M62 Pulley (modular hub - also have 3.1") I would say 3.1 to keep the temps down. Just rev higher. :-) VXR blue injectors and uprated pump Piper ex. manifold (flows good, but not sure if it will survive long...) 2.5" Exhaust
DONE
Ow yeah; you need to fit an NA thermostat housing and mod the oil cooler fittings...
#8
Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:06 PM
Is there something against running the standard B207 oil cooler? The oil cooler core used for the Z22SE doesn't look bigger than the standard B207 one.
#9
Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:10 PM
Nope, but then you need to change the water pipes etc there. And space for that is limited...
#10
Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:26 PM
Hm, haven't looked at that yet. Space is limited everywhere it seems. Is here a place you can just buy that adapter from (Dbilas and the other one don't sell it separately), or is it diy again.
@Rosssco: very sensible way to go. Anything above these specs is just a black hole with things sticking out because space is limited
#11
Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:27 PM
Thought you wanted something easy and quick to build?? And not too many mods for ultimate power...
Cheers Frank. Well, yes but I can do a few tweaks while the engine is out in my spare room for a couple of months.. 10:1 Compression (Z22SE or Z22YH Head gasket?) => I would keep the stock 9,5 compression on NA/LSJ cams. Was thinking running a higher static CR with lower boost. Unsure how to proceed on this one. Ported exhaust ports => Always helps, but even more if revved higher (valve springs!) and/or with high lift cams... Want to give it a go. Engine rev limitwill be set to 7k rpm. Balancer delete => We've not seen real world gains with this. Our best running LSJ/B207's have stock balancers. (@7800rpm ;-) ) But saves 3kg and I have a set of balancer ends here.. 3.0" M62 Pulley (modular hub - also have 3.1") I would say 3.1 to keep the temps down. Just rev higher. :-) Its pretty cold where I am usually Easy to swap between the two if intake temps are dodgy. Should have enough cooling for a 3" however. Piper ex. manifold (flows good, but not sure if it will survive long...)
Worked fine on my current engine, but will be checking while removed. Ow yeah; you need to fit an NA thermostat housing and mod the oil cooler fittings...
Want to use the Saab oil cooler - I think its a neater set-up and avoids those sealant rings (which gave me an oil leak for 6 months)
#12
Posted 15 February 2018 - 03:56 PM
You don't want to Z22SE oil adapter ring set-up, but with a B207 you can make a hybrid solution. I have some pics somewhere in my Yellow Project thread.
#13
Posted 15 February 2018 - 04:08 PM
Yeah, I think I've read that thread about 10 times! Could go for an adaptor, but still would like to fit the OEM Saab cooler... The standard VX cooler has been known to fail too.
Was thinking of using the Courtenay fan switch adaptor (30mm tube) in place of the oil cooler, and using the fan switch for the fans given the temp function doesn't work if I use the LSJ ECU.
(Ps.- Do you loose the standard immob function with the LSJ ECU?)
#15
Posted 15 February 2018 - 05:39 PM
#16
Posted 15 February 2018 - 07:44 PM
#17
Posted 16 February 2018 - 12:16 AM
That does not look like it has the B207 oil cooler holes there, but more like a closed 2.2 or 2.4 block?? There you can do this mod. B207 needs an adapter plate there:
#18
Posted 16 February 2018 - 06:48 AM
I immediately ran to my B207 yesterday as I like this mod a lot. Looks exactly like the picture in Haggi961's email. The hole on the left side is in the aluminium housing. The one on the right side has a thick walled (like 5 mm) steel tube in it. The B207 oil cooler has the two o-rings and it just bolts to that oil filter housing.
#19
Posted 16 February 2018 - 09:40 AM
Am I missing something?
Yes You're right that the 'Stage 2' is undoubtedly the best compromise between cost and performance on the road, and is more than enough for the majority of owners, however, there's a number of additional factors here:
- Everyone knows a 'Stage 3' is a jump in cost, but to get a Z22SE to a similar level, I'd need to spend ~£800 on steel rods, a lightened flywheel and a new chain kit. A brand new B207 was £830 delivered. Plus I should be able to sell my existing engine for more or less the same - hopefully cost neutral (yeah right)
- As above, brand new, cheap zero miles engine which has a number of improvements over the Z22SE.
- I already had most of the parts to make it work (OBD-Tuner, trigger wheel, exhaust, injectors, flywheel, etc.) So just the cost of the engine really, plus anything else I want to spend on it.
- I can install it myself
- I've used both a 2.2 (bent a rod at ~245bhp - weird) and a 2.4. Both were 'effective' engines, but really not that exciting or enjoyable, and I always thought somewhat at odds with the other aspects of the VX (such as the suspension and steering). I thought of going tweaked NA, but honestly couldn't after having a SC, so the aim is to have a more 'sporty' and 'aggressive' SC engine, which while not being remarkable for outputs (nothing special these days), will hopefully provide a slightly more enjoyable powertrain. We'll see.
#20
Posted 16 February 2018 - 11:34 AM
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